A worthwhile route up the left-hand side of the Valencianos slab. Take a small rack of wires for the start.
1) and 2) 6a, 60m. The best start is as for Polvos mágicos.
3) 6b+, 40m. Move right and tackle the left-hand of two bolted cracks. Trend left to a stance.
4) 6a+, 50m. Climb up and onto the slab, and follow it by sustained climbing all the way to the ridge.
Descent - Either abseil off, or continue up Valencianos. © Rockfax
FA. Jaime Arviza, José Juan Quesada 1991