|230m, 2 pitches. A good set of pitches with the drawback of all the rambling it takes to get to the last two pitches. A two-star alternative is to substitute pitches 3 and 4 of Pilar López de Sancho, moving right below the hanging groove to the base of pitch 5. Take a few wires for the start.
1) to 3) 6a+, 90m. As for Polvos Magicos.
4) 6b, 20m. An aimless pitch. Climb up and left, then back right to a ledge below the corner of Piratas. Now things improve.
5) 6c+, 40m. Climb the wall just right of the corner past one short hard section (easily by-passable by climbing the corner on the left at 6b). Trend up and right to a ledge belay.
6) 6b, 30m. The first of two superb pitches heading straight up the final wall to a small stance.
7) 6b, 50m. More great climbing through some steep bulging caves provides a stunning finish. Belay on wires then scramble off. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Jaime Arviza , Emilio Perales 1991