Rockfax Description
A good finale, though all the rambling to get to it is a pain. A better alternative is to use pitches 3 and 4 of Pilar López de Sancho. Take a few wires for the start.1) to 3) 6a+, 90m. As for Polvos mágicos.4) 6b, 20m. An aimless pitch. Climb up and left, then back right to a ledge below the corner of Piratas. Now things improve.5) 6c+, 40m. Climb up the wall just right of the corner past a short hard section (can be by-passed on the left ). Trend up and right to a belay.6) 6b, 22m. The first of two superb pitches heading straight up the final wall to a small stance.7) 6b, 45m. More great climbing through some steep bulging caves provides a stunning finish. Scramble off. © Rockfax
FA. Jaime Arviza , Emilio Perales 1991.
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)