155m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A seven-pitch classic with atmospheric and intimidating climbing. Start midway between Costa Blanca and Diedro UBSA, under the centre of the huge pillar.
1) 7a, 38m. Climb into a crumbly cave. Pull out right and up a leaning, compact wall. Easier climbing to a belay.
2) 7a, 20m. Climb up past a rock scar, make a scary move leftwards onto a flake. Climb overlapped walls above to a belay.
3) 6b+, 30m. Climb a worrying bulge, then easy ground to a big steep jamming/layback crack which leads to a belay.
4) 6b+, 20m. A brilliant, technical and exposed hanging arete leads to a belay on big ledge on top of the pinnacle.
5) 5, 25m. Step down across the void to gain lovely, easy and smooth jamming cracks. A very pleasant respite.
6) 6c+, 30m. A brilliant, big, overhanging pitch up a band of perfect rock. Make ever-steeper moves up the big corner to a tricky capping roof. Completely wild!
7) 7a, 40m. Bolts lead left to a thread, but there are no holds. Reach left to clip a bolt on the wall, then top-rope to the thread and follow the thin corner above to easy ground and then the top. There may also be a higher method of doing the traverse. © Rockfax

FA. Roy de Valera, Miguel Cebrian 1999

Hidden 30/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
PeteH 20/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Good route. Rockfax topo has lots of errors (there are no shared belays with Costa Blanca), the description is better. Did P2 of the route to the right by accident, make sure you head left from the first belay. Also, the start of the route proper is reached by a bit of a steep scramble.

with Brian McAlinden
Daniel Heath 18/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Joughton 16/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

I lead first two and last two pitches, all clean so I really happy, last pitch I was a bit shaky because of the exposure and I really didn't want to balls it up! My hardest multipitch route, and every pitch was amazing.

Glyn 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Great route, enjoyed every pitch. Did it in morning shade. 3hrs, moved fast then did a route on the puig.

with Tom Skelhon
Hidden 25/Mar/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
tskelhon ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with glyn hudson
dan gibson 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2010 -
Chad123 20/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Wow! I thought Costa Blanca was good but this one is even better - every single pitch has some classy climbing on it - though I disagree with the pitch grades low down :- 7a (one move wonder, easier than pitch 2), 7a (thin and sustained and hard), 6b+ (tough and badly bolted at start, 6b+ (brilliant, airy climbing with loads of holds), 5 (great fun), 6c+ (best pitch, stunning) and 7a (very wet when we did it, but seems about right grade). Again WOW! Especially nice after I dogged the warm up route to cruise this one....

with Paul T
mgeek ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
with greg boswell
Hidden 15/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
jamiev 18/Jan/06 AltLd

2nded: pitch 1 (dogged hard move); pitch 3 (clean); pitch 5 (clean); pitch 7 (clean). Led: pitch 2 (one fall); pitch 4 (clean onsight); pitch 6 (clean onsight) Possibly the best bolted route I have ever done - superb quality throughout and pitches 6 and 7 are amazing!

with Adrian Berry
Hidden 28/Dec/03 Lead O/S
sharpie ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with PL
shark ??/2001 AltLd O/S

year a guess

with Chris Sowden
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ab tat, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
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Votes cast 8
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