DrJon - 2nd O/S - 07/May/13 with Henry, John
Excellent route, with the exception of the awful chimney pitch. Rained rather heavily on the pitch after the abseil. Recommend not taking a bag as several awkward thrutchy moments!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Claire
Found pitch 2 a little too scary with spaced bolts. Used lots of gear to get almost to the top but bottled out and abbed off... maybe next year!
gsavell - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/13 with Sarah Knight
Stone Muppet - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/13 with jg, md
Abbed off top of p2. Looks awesome.
GBM - AltLd dnf - 09/Jan/13 with Dave J
andybroadway - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/12 with Heike Puchan
andrew549 - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/12 with Pos
josh Bamsey - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12
Roger Kirke - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with josh Bamsey
TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/12 with Jo Davison
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Dec/12
Lead 2,4,9. Every pitch really good, I preferred this to Costa Blanca.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with orange sam
Bisteris - 2nd O/S - 14/Nov/12 with Andy Newton
Great adventure. Every belay has new double ring bolts now.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/12 with Debbie
debbie roberts - 2nd - 05/Nov/12 with Marti999
chris smith - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/12
Jim Brownlow - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/12 with Ben Burns
Just over 6 hours. Good climbing.
Rampikino - Lead - 12/Apr/12 with Cat
Abseiled down from pitch 4.
Mick Cassidy - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/12 with Jimbo
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 11/Apr/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/12
Lev - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Emma Ross
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/12
cheeky - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/12 with Dale Knox
Good route. Well bolted as only run out on easy sections. Rack not necessary if confident at the grade. Great intro to Penon. 4 hours.
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Psycoates
Soloed pitch 1, lead pitches 4, 6, 10
Psycoates - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with elCapitano
Very cold morning so snoozed amongst the cacti beneath the route until the sun came round. Nobody else around. Took a rack of nuts 3-11 plus a couple of hexs and a few slings and glad of them. Led P1,3,5,8 and 10. (Mike strung P6&7 together). Highlights were the start of P3 (bolted, thankfully), the last section of P4 (an exciting wake-up call for what was to come), all of P6 (especially the reachy moves up to the bolt from the jammed block and most of P9 and 10. Made a meal of the abseil which didn't turn out to be as difficult as it looked - make sure the first one down has a means of locking off the abseil (e.g. prusik) but it all came good in the end. Tabby cats instead of Barbery apes greeted us on the summit. Relaxing descent. Rewarded ourselves with beer and paella at the harbour. A memorable day. Back next year to tackle the 6b+ version of Costa Blanca climb.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 13/Feb/12 with Mike Tempest
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Dec/11
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Nov/11
LukeyG - AltLd - Oct/11
Pitch 4: Alan decided to go off route on the left crack (we both found this hard).
Pitch 7 and 8: I climbed up to look for anchors but didn't like the look of it all. Instead, we used the abseil to the left and traversed across to the anchors below.
Took 5 hours
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Alan Murray
Josh Dickerson - 2nd O/S - Aug/11 with Andy Dickerson
LittleLuka - 2nd - 04/May/11 with Alison, Andy
well... it was a great adventure, most climbing was nice, having lunch in a cave was awesome and the view from the top was amazing! but getting confused by the rockfax description meant we had 13 belays, went a bit of route and as a result ended up doing what felt like 6b moves to get out of the 2 small caves below the large one. note to self - go very far right after the pinnacle!
krasavenko - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Morgan Trigg
Triggalicious - AltLd - 03/Apr/11 with Liyen Nhuyen
Lev - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Emma Ross
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/11
tmawer - AltLd rpt - 25/Mar/11 with andrea
Hidden - AltLd - Mar/11
Led last 2 pitches
mick1jones - AltLd dog - 24/Feb/11 with Ellin, Dave
Hidden - Lead - 30/Jan/11
basically lead the whole thing except pitch 3 maybe? the 4+
khmhau - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/11 with Nick Barrow
Lead every pitch clean, was an epic day! Note to self, Anasazis are NOT comfortable all day shoes!
tomhennigan - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Jamie Parkin
Jo Davison - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Ed Searle
scamble pitch 1 no ropes. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
Tom Downes - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with Luke Fuggle
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11
Probably the most memorable climb of my life to date
marcb - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/11 with James Ryan
Hidden - 2011
not as good as the first time, experience is cool but climbing itself is mediocore. çwe also got benighted as we were stuck behind a really slow group of 3 so we had to do the last 3-4 pitches in the pitch black.
Robin Head - Lead rpt - 30/Dec/10 with Jen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/10
What an adventure! First multi-pitch, first abseil and first benightment!
JenDurden - 2nd β - 30/Dec/10 with Robin
Hidden - 2nd - 15/Dec/10
i fell on p6- so polished 2 moves desperate
dan ely - AltLd dog - 04/Dec/10 with christian the german
Hidden - AltLd - 16/Nov/10
Took forever after having to wait for a bunch of 3 Finnish guys that carried on up where they should have abseiled and came back down when the realised their error. Take plenty of fluids and get their early to catch the worm!!
andeeeee - 2nd - 04/Nov/10 with Nick Read
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/10
barney_edin - AltLd - 21/Oct/10 with Sue G
Andy Fielding - AltLd - 18/Oct/10 with Andy Sanders
Fantastic day. Longest day climbing ever. Approx 8 hours. Memories will last forever.
Sandrex - AltLd - 18/Oct/10 with Andy Fielding
Seb31 - AltLd - Aug/10
Lead all pitches. Got the rope stuck on the abseil.
chri55ie - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/10 with Tom Taylor
Started about 9am. Got to the top about 11pm so climbed the last pitch in the dark! Good climb, a bit of everything: laybacks, traverses, chimney/cave, and an abseil.
samcook - 2nd - 30/Mar/10 with Alex Higgs, Luke Randall
At 13 hrs from start to finish this turned into a bit of an epic! Nothing went wrong, just very slow going as a team of three, plus we got stuck behind a pair who got well and truly stuck on the crux pitch so we had to go and offer assistance. Lead all pitches except pitch 2. Some brilliant climbing, not always well protected. Definately comparable to HVS as in Rockfax.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/10 with Sam Cook, Alex
Lead pitches 3, 5 and 9. Didn't take any trad gear with us, but found that you didn't really need it, though might be nice to have some on piches 2 and 3 as very spaced bolts! Overall time of 4 and a quarter hours starting at 9am. Get there early as queues later.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Paddy Williams
Lead pitches 1,4,6,7 and 10
Did not have any Trad gear on us, did not need any.
Sometimes the bolts were a bit spaced but those parts where generally straight forward.
Only confusing bit:
The belay at the bottom of the cave is really in the right hand corner of the bottom of the cave (actually a belay of another route)
we did not use it, but it caused a lot of rope drag!
Take a camelbak with you it is very warm up there!
start early to avoid queing
took us 6 hours no headtorches required.
Robin Head - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/10 with Hugh Jackson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/10
Started at 10. Finished at 8
martinp - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with Dave S and Alan C
fantastic climb! forgot how "adventurously bolted" it was
mrstarwarsman - AltLd - Mar/10 with matt smith
Great route, perfect weather. Led pitches 2 and 4
erica - 03/Feb/10 with John
Big route, big day, big smile
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/10 with Erica
seeroo - 2nd O/S - 21/Jan/10 with Scone
Hidden - 2010
Lead pitch 3 (5+), 5 (4), 6 (5+), 7 (Scramble), 8 (ab seil), 9 (4), 10 (4+)
Seconded pitch 2 (4+), 4 (5)
Soloed pitch 1 (Scramble)
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/09 with Ian Bruce
A brilliant route but as others have stated you may need more than a light rack (and headtorches) to ensure a good day out! We took just one set of nuts and a size 4 cam, lots of threads and enough quickdraws so that we could discard a few enroute. It's also a good idea to make sure you've got Alex and Chip climbing above you to show you the way down when you top out in the dark.
Tommy lead 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 8th (abseil), 9th (dusk) and 10th (very dark).
Sir Rich lead 2nd, 4th and 6th
tommyzero - Lead RP - 20/Dec/09 with Sir Rich Mc Rich
Fantastic route, made it into a really relaxing day taking in the sun at the belays, shortly after our afternoon siesta in the cave we decided to get a move on!!!
Superb climbing with great positions. This is not a sport route (hence the HVS in the guidebook)! Took a set of nuts and 4 cams BD .5, .75, 1, and red, you may not use that much gear, but its definately worth having to make the route more enjoyable.
Arrived at the car in good time, the pair that set off behind us didn't take HEADTORCHES and may have needed some assistance on the way down, eh Chris and Rich, thanks for the beers!!
Checklist: Nuts 1-10, Cams 4, 15 Quickdraws to be safe and Headtorches!!
Abseil bolts are left of belay bolts on the face to the left of the cave (peer out), dont climb up to the tat in the cave.
alexrafferty1986 - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Chip Rafferty
Extended pitch 5 to the stance on top of the pinnacle. From there went straight up, via a tricky move escaping right from a small cave below the main cave, to the abseil stance. The 'large clump of tat' mentioned in the old guide for abseiling, has happily been replaced with double bolts.
A few cams and a set of nuts were useful but not essential.
Matt, P1&2, P4, Mod P6, P8.
Stu, P3, P5 (To Pinnacle), Abseil, P9
Mattzx6r - AltLd - 04/Dec/09 with Stu
sonic46 - 2nd - 04/Dec/09 with Stu, Pete Collins, Matt Page
6.5 Hrs climbing.
Suggest a bit more than a 'light rack' unless you are very confident.
Don't confuse it with a sports grade 5.
Double bolt belays and ab rings on all pitches. Sparsely bolted on pitches except on the tricky bits.
Description / topo is confusing around the cave / abseil pitches. Double bolt belay at top of P7 is at lower left side of the cave - don't be tempted to scramble up to the top of the cave. Lean out over the void and look left for double bolt ab point - big bunch of ab tat has been removed.
rilem - 16/Nov/09 with Rog S
Adderbury Climber - 2nd dog - Nov/09 with Al Randal
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/09
sgl - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/09 with mallard and ben
Lead pitches 2 and 4
chri55ie - AltLd - 19/Apr/09 with Alan Gill
MonkeyDawson - Lead - 31/Mar/09 with Liz Brooker
Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Mar/09
3 hours 20 minutes. Followed by Via Valancianos in the afternoon!
Pitch 1 - Hol; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Hol; Pitch 8 - ab; Pitch 9 - Hol; Pitch 10 - Dave.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Holly Adamthwaite
Got a little over-confident after cruising up 4+ and 5 sports routes all week, and bit off more than I could chew with this one. Hard, thuggish, thrutchy climbing on horribly polished rock and sparse bolts. Couldn't overcome the crux on my lead on pitch 2 (which felt like the harder end of VS), so ended up setting up a belay in a somewhat precarious position mid-pitch to bring Dave up to finish it off for me. I then struggled to second it, getting totally pumped. Decided we'd rather not have a complete epic and abbed off from the top of pitch 2, to my great relief. Spent the rest of the day quietly sporting a thousand-yard stare.... Grading (and by all accounts the topos) in the old Cicerone Costa Blanca Rock Guide appears more accurate than the new RockFax guide. Dave would have romped up it given a more equally matched partner.
CathS - AltLd dnf - 02/Jan/09 with Dave Clark
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09
Hidden - Lead - 02/Jan/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/08
Also climbed with Hannah Bostrom.
Unfortunately, this route was beyond me, only my 2nd multipitch route of such proportions. Hating every second of the 2nd pitch my partner made the wise choice of retreating before the climb became a major epic for me. Shook my confidence a fair amount and have vowed to attempt some more multipitch moutain routes in the future.
staceyjg - 2nd - 31/Dec/08 with Chris Gardner
Only climbed to the top of pitch 6 and then found ourselves confused by the abseil description in the guide book. Backed off as time was getting tight. Great route though with loads of charachter.
al99 - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/08 with Martina Zandonella
martinazando - AltLd - 28/Dec/08 with Al Benson
Lauren Davies - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom
TonyP - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/08 with Boggy
On arriving at the cave, did not see ab lower off, and instead climbed the left side of the cave, and ab'd of the most horrible bit of rusty tat I have ever used (complemented by stunning 200m drop). spotted lower off on way down and chalked it up to a very important life lesson (whilst wetting myself about current lower off). Very relieved to get away with that one.
funsized - Lead O/S - Dec/08
Tom Downes - AltLd O/S - Dec/08 with steven mayer
shat my pants and had 2 7m falls. Worth it!
mrstarwarsman - AltLd - Dec/08 with john tanner
too tired to finish! did half the route, enough to convince me to go back to climbing after 10 year break :-)
MikaelW - 2nd dnf - 22/Nov/08 with Keegan
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Luke Rooker
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/08 with Martyn Eales
Hidden - AltLd - Sep/08
Led 1st pitch, Daf led the rest
Christian Reynish - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/08 with Daffyd Jones
Chris led 1st pitch. Led the rest. 6.5 hours.
Amazing route for the grade. "Big", thrutchy, exposed climbing.
Route description is now inaccurate.
3. Don't go past possible stance on large ledge, but use it.
5. Carry on past shady spot behind pinnacle to 3BB on top of jammed block.
6. Believe I went too far right here, to smooth crack of "Puto" at same grade. Should go straight up wall to belay on 2BB at bottom left of cave. Ab station out on front face on left.
7+8. Ab down to ledge, using tufa to assist traverse over to 3BB. (With hindsight should have just threaded the ab station, and lowered to ledge and traversed over to farthest BB on ledge.)
9. Traverse about 10m into corner, then continue right up past large thread and large spiky bush to 3BB below final corner.
DafSWMC - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/08 with Christian
Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Jan/08
Got rope stuck on ab out of cave, had to descend to ledge below Pinnacle, traverse across to Piratas and continue up two pitches of that and the rest of Diedro UBSA. Things started getting a bit fraught as darkness fell.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 25/Jan/08 with David Jones
Perfect rock, route, weather, climbing, company, scenery... a route so good I giggled to myself on the belays and shouted to anyone who'd listen as I pulled up the cracks. A day to keep me warm through this season's shivering belays & abandoned Scottish days. Superb.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/08 with Corky
CarolineH - AltLd - 04/Jan/08 with Neil
Pbclimbing.com - 2008
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07
Bolted. Placed one nut on the first pitch though.
laurent - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07
SteveM - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/07 with Kat
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/07
jh5638 - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/07 with Ian Gould
Hidden - Dec/07
cat22 - AltLd O/S - Dec/07 with Mike
haydng - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Rachel
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/07
First multi pitch over than four pitches long.
cragmole - 2nd β - 19/Oct/07 with Richard Mayfield
All but 2 pitches, fantastic route with an exposed absail.
climbingrick - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07
steven - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Brian Hull
Julie Carroll - 2nd - Mar/07 with Rich Mayfield
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jan/07
timharrison - Lead dnf - 25/Dec/06 with Trevor Macalonan
trevor macalonan - Lead dnf - 25/Dec/06 with pete swift
a far far better route than via valencious
dave o - AltLd O/S - Dec/06 with James R
pauelo - AltLd O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Carles Solís
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/06
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/06 with Martina
Simon Allcock - AltLd - Oct/06 with nick
Amazing day out.
Darragh - AltLd - Sep/06 with Pat
Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Apr/06
If you have been sport cragging, prepare to be surprised by how thrutchy a lot of this is!
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/06 with Luke
Amazing route! Fabulous climbing, views and position! The route that has it all!
richw2k2 - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/06 with Dale
Lead: P3 (5+); second half of P4 (5); P6 (5+); P10 (4+).
thebigfriendlymoose - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Stephen
Al led first pitch and 4th (4) - can't remember how many we took, but it was 6:30 when we finished and 8:30 by the time we got down. Going wrong after the pinacle didn't help
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/06 with Al Evans
Very committing, good gear and great views!
ross1983 - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/06 with Nick Heasman
andy jennings - AltLd O/S - Jan/06
King Rat - 2006
mikelaing - 2006
Fat Tim - 2nd O/S - Dec/05 with Rob McGregor
I think I led the odd-numbered pitches.
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - Dec/05 with Tom G
Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with Laurence Hooper
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Oct/05
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/05
Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Gavin Lim
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/05
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/05
Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/05
Chris v. tired after crack climbing. Tricky pendulum abseil from the cave - prussik?
Robbie H - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/05 with Chris Wright
chris warner - Lead - Dec/04 with lewi williams
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04
Kyuzo - AltLd RP - Mar/04 with Bernard Lam
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/04
hal - Mar/04
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/04
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/04
Hidden - 2004
Being one of our 1st multipitches, it was the obligatory epic. Carrying enough crap with us we could survive a nuclear winter, we took far too long and was overtaken by 2 spanish dudes dressed only in pants.
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Dec/03 with Ian Lovatt
Spillers - AltLd - Oct/03 with Randy
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/03 with Jemma Wadham
Mark Collins - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/03 with Gavin Hetherington
Stuart & Hen
Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - Mar/03
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Oct/02
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/May/02
Led p 3, 4, 6 & 10. Took a long fall near top of p6 when a handhold snapped
cem - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/01 with Sally Dipple
Hidden - AltLd - 2001
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Nov/00 with helen gibson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/00
Hidden - AltLd rpt - Oct/00
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/00
dickypips - 2nd - Feb/00 with john richards
Tenko - AltLd - 27/Apr/99 with John Hine
King Rat - AltLd O/S - 1999 with A
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1998
craig h - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/96 with Janet Hannah
Hidden - AltLd - Dec/95
OMSKB - Lead - Dec/93
Budge - AltLd O/S - Feb/93 with Richard Teed
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/93
ChrisJD - AltLd - Jan/92
steve taylor - AltLd - Dec/91 with stumpy