Vía Gómez-Cano*** 6b
235m, 9 pitches. E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping diagonal line through the series of huge honeycomb caves high on the wall. Take a small rack of gear including some foot slings for the aid pitch. Some of the fixed gear is old but there are some new bolts and all the belays are new and equipped for abseil. Start below a diagonal crack.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the crack up rightwards then move onto a flake which comes back left. Make a tricky move out right, past a bolt, to a sloping stance.
2) 5+, 15m. The groove above is awkward.
3) A0/5+, 40m. Climb up a groove, then move right onto the wall. Head up here towards a diagonal crack. Aid along this (free at 7b+), then climb up to a stance in the base of the huge caves.
4) 4, 35m. Climb to the top-left corner of the cave and pull round into a large bay. Scramble left and make exposed moves on a short rib around to another cave system and bolt belay. © ROCKFAX


FA. Miguel Cano, Migeul Gómez 1970s 1975
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

led pitches 1, 4, 6.
Simon Allcock - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/13 with Wilki

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13

All free pitches onsight. First pitch felt very stiff, more like pumpy 6b. Fine after that. More run out sport 6b than E3. Went off route at the top and climbed pitch 7 of El Navigante at 6a then topped out on an unidentified super steep aid route. A class day out!!
ianjfsutcliffe - AltLd - 17/Mar/12 with Coatesy

Lead pitches 2, 4, 6. Replaced final two pitches with the seventh of El navigante and an unidentifed aid pitch.
Richard P Coates - AltLd - 17/Mar/12 with ianjfsutcliffe

SMc - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Chris

koalapie - AltLd - 08/Nov/10

Brilliant route, the highlight of the week. Lead pitches 2,3,5 and 7. The grade 5/5+ pitches are stiff at the grade which made us both nervous about the top two crux pitches, but these were no harder then 6b and surprisingly well bolted. Not at all comparable to E3 as per the Rockfax guide - some British 5c moves but barely E1.
lrandall - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/10 with Christophe

Hidden - 2010

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/08

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with jonnie3430

Best route on the wall!
HansStuttgart - 2008

Polished slippery rock early morning start crazy seagulls well bolted but used some trad gear where there was a few long run-outs plenty of tourists on the top to congratulate you.
phil hay - AltLd β - 24/Apr/07 with andy higginbottom

Not quite clean
chris wyatt - Lead dog - 2005

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Dec/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Nov/00 with helen gibson

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Oct/00

Big route for a winter's day. Last day's climbing at the end of my first week on the Costa Blanca. Found the last pitch quite pumpy but I was seconding that with the sack on - in the dark!
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - Jan/99 with Colin Skeath

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/98 with Mark Vandome

sharpie - Lead O/S - Jan/97 with John Harwood

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/95

robtrooper - 1995

A Christmas Day adventure - aided the 7b pitch
Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - 25/Dec/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/93

Fantastic
steve taylor - AltLd - Dec/92 with Jim Waddington

ChrisJD - AltLd - 02/Jan/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BenedictIEP, Steve Waters, Mynydd

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard 6b+0 of 7
6b+0 of 7
easy 6b+0 of 7
hard 6b1 of 7
6b3 of 7
easy 6b0 of 7
hard 6a+3 of 7
6a+0 of 7
easy 6a+0 of 7
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