|295m, 9 pitches. This long route follows the centre of the main face between the two huge cave systems. It is not popular featuring some suspect rock and old fixed gear. Also the climbing is a bit unbalanced with all the hard stuff at the bottom. Start down the slope from the crack of Gómez-Cano. The name is on the rock.
1) 6b, 35m. Follow flakes up right, then climb direct to the start of a prominent slanting crack-line. Follow the crack and belay at small foot ledges.
2) 6c, 40m. Continue along the crack for a few moves, then move up onto the compact wall above. Follow the gear up and slightly leftwards to reach a narrow ledge. Move easily right past a peg to gain an easy groove-system leading to a stance.
3) 20m. The corner leads easily to a great cave.
4) 5+, 40m. Strenuous corners on the left lead to a recess.
bolted line of Línea Mágica.
6) 5+, 40m. Traverse right into a corner and climb it with difficulty at its top. Step left to another Línea Mágica belay.
7) 8) & 9) 120m. Scramble easily up the gully to the col between the two summits of the Peñón. © ROCKFAX|
FA. J.M.Anglada, M.Angel, G.Gallego