E4. Another old route that never gets done now, climbing the main face between the two huge caves. It has some suspect rock and old gear plus the climbing is unbalanced with all the hard stuff at the bottom. Start down the slope from the crack of Gómez-Cano.
1) 6b+, 35m. Follow flakes up right then climb up to the start of a slanting crack. Follow the crack and belay at small ledges.
2) 6c, 40m. Head along the crack for a few moves, then climb the compact wall above. Follow the gear up and slightly left to a narrow ledge then move easily right (peg) to an easy groove-system leading to a stance.
3) 5+, 20m. Climb the corner then traverse left to a stance.
4) 5+, 40m. Follow the wall leftwards then up.
5) 5, 25m. Follow the groove above to a junction with the well-bolted line of Línea Mágica.
6) 5+, 40m. Traverse right into a corner and climb it with difficulty at its top. Step left to another Línea Mágica belay.
7) & 8) 100m. Scramble easily up the gully to the col between the two summits of the Peñón. © Rockfax
FA. J.M.Anglada, M.Angel, G.Gallego
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