|80m, 2 pitches. This route is situated on the left of the first grassy gully right of the prominent groove of Black Magic. Start in the corner capped by the overhang.|
1) 44m (5b). Climb the awkward crack on the left wall of the corner to good holds at 20m. Climb the steep corner crack passing a rocking but secure block to an overhang. Step right and up to a small belay ledge (good nut 3m above).
2) 36m (6a). Climb up to a band of overhangs, climb these and trend slightly left and straight up (about 2m right of a blank corner) to a second overhang (rest nut used above the overhang). From just above the overhang step left (with great difficulty) into a corner and continue up the crack to a layback corner. Climb this to a good jug, stand on the jug (difficult), continue more easily to the top.
K Murphy, T Ryan 25/Sep/1982
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