Rockfax Description
A hard route with a steep start and a great second pitch.
1) 5b, 12m. Climbing up to the shattered overhanging groove. Pulling around to the belay is much more problematic than it first appears and may well shatter some leader's nerves.
2) 5c, 30m. Move right and climb the superb technical wall via a thin crack to an overlap. Pull around this and then head up right to a ledge near the arete. Committing moves up a crack lead back left through a bulge to easier ground above. Continue more easily to the large flake stance of Spectre.
3) and 4) As for Spectre. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
mrteale 20/Sep AltLd dog

Lead pitches 1 & 2. Greased off the P2 crux twice like a mega punter and then found the jug finally. Great route.

with Chris M
Hidden 20/Sep AltLd
JamesWilliams 29/Aug AltLd O/S

P2. Pretty thin and balancy up to the overlap then good holds the pretty sapping and threw the next overlap it was nearly all over till I calmed down! Pretty hard and exposed crux

adamre12 29/Aug AltLd O/S

Well good route. Hard crux though!

Lakesben 24/Aug AltLd O/S

Led P1. Bit of route finding necessary. Not bold like the guide says but a bit of suspect rock

with Mark
Hidden 09/Aug 2nd O/S
adie84 09/Aug -
jsmcfarland ?/Aug Lead dnf

Bailed after not finding a way through the overhang. There is a bomber cam placement so it is quite safe but routefinding...??? Shame because P2 looks brilliant

with Robert
DaveThexton 06/Jul AltLd
with Freja, josh
Hidden 06/Jul AltLd O/S
frejashannon 06/Jul AltLd
beni 30/May Lead O/S
with Wojtek
ferdia 15/May Lead O/S
with Andy
Andy Moles 15/May 2nd
with Ferdia
Hidden 12/May AltLd O/S
robpartridge 05/May Lead
with Helen
waynekinrade ?/May Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
wynaptomos 25/Sep/15 AltLd dog
Hidden 25/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
Steve Crowe 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing all the way.

with KM
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hughes
Hidden 15/Jun/15 -
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 2nd dog
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 18/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Ian Craigie, Niels Ernst-Williams
Hidden 17/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden ??/2015 -
eel 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden ?/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mikeshewring 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S

2nd pitch

mr mills 13/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Tall Paul
PaulTanton 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good route. Thanks Mills

with Mills
Luxulyan 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead

My first E2

with Paul Jones
redjerry 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
mop449 31/Aug/13 2nd
Matt Harle 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

smallerrich 07/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led the 1st pitch.. Wish I hadnt, its crap! 2nd pitch is good.

soph 30/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Andy Scott
dan gibson 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
markalmack 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
wi11 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

P1

with Gwen L
Duncan Campbell 16/May/13 Lead O/S

P2 as p1 was wet. Brilliant climbing with an awkward upper bulge! Once again greeted by rain upon topping out... am I cursed?

dswansonlow 07/May/13 Lead O/S

I found this quite tricky at the time, but on reflection it wasn't actually too bad

shed_hed 07/May/13 2nd O/S

Horrible start with the harder moves. Pitch 2 was nice.

BenRyle 30/Apr/13 2nd dog

Smeggy first pitch, ace upper.

with Dan
Dan724 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

I felt that the first pitch was 5c, not 5b as the guidebook suggested. Also contrary to the guidebook it is well protected and not 'bold'. Fantastic second pitch, one of the best I've done, 3 stars!

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
theotherpetehill 09/Sep/12 Lead dog

Led both pitches. Got lost and pumped on P1 trying to go right from the jutting roof and had to rest on cam. Topo line in Llanberis comprehensive guide is slightly wrong: you pull round right under jutting triangular roof then back left onto jugs directly above roof and straight up. P2 very good

with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
akhughes 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
owain86 30/Jul/12 Lead dog

Did as one long pitch. Did not climb well today, even after Ben put the gear in, I dropped off the final bulge!

with Ben R
Bennykr 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route, did in one pitch.

with Owain A
Liam FLeming 26/Mar/12 -
Hidden 22/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd dog
geoff b 05/Aug/11 Lead
Liam FLeming 29/Jul/11 AltLd
with Dan Jackson
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
khawk 24/Jul/11 AltLd
with DT
colkurtz 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Alex Mason 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

In one big pitch. 3 steep sections each harder than the last. Brill route and good friction for the Grochan.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
vertically_challenged 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

had to downclimb and take a second look on 1st pitch. it does go straight up and through the overhang on good holds. had to retreat halfway up 2nd pitch as darkness fell on us. cant wait to get back on it!

ksjs 13/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Why haven't I been on this before now! Amazing. Felt more than sum of its parts, full fat E2. Skulked off into Spectre as the crux ate time and darkness gathered.

with Sam
kdalzell 01/May/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 01/May/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tim newton 18/Apr/11 AltLd dog

took one rest leading first pitch

with dan ely
dan ely 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with tim
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd
samrad 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

linked pitches 1&2, then abbed from top of second pitch. just used some long extenders on the 1st pitch to reduce the rope drag. really enjoyable route! quite pumpy! solid E2 5c.

with james G
farmus21 08/Apr/11 Lead dog

Linked P1&2 to make a more sustained line. Satisfyingly sustained with good gear throughout. Powered out on last steep section... Silly.

with Sam Radcliffe
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Owain Llewelyn 25/Oct/10 AltLd

1st pitch stiff for 5b, 2nd pitch ace.

with Gareth E
barni 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

pitch 2 only

Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
mikeyjbs 27/Jun/10 AltLd dog
with christopher glasson
Rob Pitt 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Pete Rowlands
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JulesV 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
mr mills 13/May/10 Lead rpt
with ioan d
Mike Goldthorp 12/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, both cool in their own way. 2nd pitch has an awesome exposed crux!

with Ben Alsford
mr mills ??/2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with patch, dave g
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
simonp ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Si dH 02/May/09 2nd RP

First pitch only after I had lowered off on lead. Absolutely desperate for 5b - moves are blind and difficult to read from a pumpy position, then when you do them they involve two full-on lock-offs one after the other. Much much harder than aything on Left Wall! PS unless I read it wrong!

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd dog
vanderz 02/Apr/09 AltLd
with Neil Mcadie
Luke Brooks 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Rob
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Ash
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
Dave Rumney 10/Sep/06 Lead
with Sean Roberts
frost ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with D Garry
mux ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Frost ,
Ed Booth 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Very cool climb, first time i felt like i have stopped and looked down and taken in the exposure, which was lucky as it was absoloutely fab!!!

Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead dnf
uphillnow 17/Jun/03 2nd
with Mark Gray
Hidden 01/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd
michael burrows 30/Apr/95 2nd
with richard parry
Paul Clarke ??/1993 AltLd
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
Derek Ryden ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Pete Bursnall, Pete Griffiths
amstel ?/Jun/92 Lead
with Liam
whispering nic ??/1991 -
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 Lead
with neil willets
Hidden ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 18/Jul/89 Lead

My notes say hard for 5c! Glad to see it has gone up.

with Rupert Wyard, David
Hidden 16/May/88 Lead
keefe 13/Sep/86 -
Mike Owen 09/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
Hidden 08/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/86 2nd

At the top end of the grade!

with Duncan Lee
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
charlesmfrench 17/Jun/84 Lead O/S

2,L/2. Rested on top pitch.

with Cliff, Alan Bennett
philhilo 05/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with Martin Cave
Mark Kemball 03/Jul/83 AltLd
with "Spugs" Spurrett
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Andy Stephenson 04/Aug/82 2nd

1st pitch was OK. But the "5b"(?) overhang on the second felt desperate and I let Alan have a go. He succeeded, but it still felt hard to me with a rope above.

with Alan Dance
Mike Owen 06/Apr/80 Lead rpt
with John Roberts
Hidden ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 24/Jul/77 -
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
Mike Owen 10/Jul/77 Lead O/S
with Pete White
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set