UKC

On the lefthand side of the big boulder by the path. Slightly eliminate but very nice. Sit start on the obvious undercut feature, climb slightly leftwards and then head strait up the face via a series of very small and sharp pockets and a deep/sharp edge. Finish by topping out at the highest point on the boulder. Avoid holds on the left arete. Highball!

James Squire (age 15) 06/May/2012.

Feedback

User Date Notes
eddieclimb 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Traversed diagonally from undercut, cross over to (ouch) Mono and pocket left and then pull-up to good, deep crimp. stretch up left for pinchy pocket and then straight up high above bulge to rh gaston pocket and 2 finger pocket left, high feet and go for the obvious good hold about a foot below top. Would be stupidly eliminate not to use this as so close to the arete that you avoid.
Show beta
βeta: Traversed diagonally from undercut, cross over to (ouch) Mono and pocket left and then pull-up to good, deep crimp. stretch up left for pinchy pocket and then straight up high above bulge to rh gaston pocket and 2 finger pocket left, high feet and go for the obvious good hold about a foot below top. Would be stupidly eliminate not to use this as so close to the arete that you avoid.
Judemallett 6 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Decent problem, went in a couple of goes after deciding which holds to use. Definitely soft
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Decent problem, went in a couple of goes after deciding which holds to use. Definitely soft

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Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Darkest Hour

Grade: V8+ ***
(Ladye Bay (Clevedon))

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