The pinch direct** E4 6a
15m, 2 pitches. A superb and direct first pitch to the already great route The Pinch. This harder variation means there are two hard pitches making the route more consistent in grade, but more varied as the direct is a roof pitch. Start halfway between the Pinch original start and Wouf route, the hanging wall has a downward pointing triangle at its bottom. Pull into the obvious line of holds with good gear and urgency, to find good holds on the wall above. Continue directly to the belay of the Pinch
P2 The pinch pitch 2.
Justin Timms 13/May/2012
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Great onsight of a new pitch by Justin.
John Mcshea - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Justin Timms

P1 only abbed off thread, a more fitting start to the Pinch, maybe E2/3 5c as a single pitch.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with John Mcshea

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