Aorangi** 6c+ (e5)
280m, 9 pitches. Maori for ‘cloud piercer'. Take a full rack. 1) 5+, 25m. Climb the slab to the pinnacle. 2) 5+, 25m. Up the pinnacle then the groove and crack above. 3) 6c+, 45m. The groove (bolts) then on past a flake to a ledge, cross the slabs to the wall behind. 4) 5, 20m. Climb the wall past a sloping ledge. Up left to belay. 5) 6a, 30m. Climb left over a small roof. Cracks and corners lead to a large ledge. 6) 3, 25m. Scramble across broken rock to below a long crack. 7) 5, 20m. A broken wall leads to a ledge. 8) 6b, 45m. Follow the crack then the wall on the left. Move back to the crack and up to a cave. 9) 6a+, 45m. Exit the cave up a chimney; cracks lead to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Edwards, S.Pérez 1994
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