HS. At the top of the scree slope, locate a painted name on the rock 'Esp Central' - there are 2 painted names about 30m apart, the right-hand is the correct one to use. This painted name indicates the direct start.
1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of rock, then belay beneath a long corner.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and left onto the arête. Climb the arête (pegs) to a belay at a bolt and peg.
3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which the Quick Start joins the route).
4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue up corners and cracks and move right to a belay.
5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from the rock. © Rockfax
FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
the Orange house legends, Andy G
TGA Melissa. Superb climbing. Worth doing the lot + stringing some pitches together.
|jamie ward||05/Feb||Lead O/S||
Lead all pitches, direct (5) on pitch 9
|Lawrie Brand||29/Jan||Lead O/S||
About HS/VS 4b overall. Long route! Entertaining descent but not too bad if you follow the cairns and red spots. No sign of the big red cirle mentioned in the rockfax guide
Led p2,4,6,8,10,12. Great route: quality rock, great exposure and spectacular belays. 11.5 hrs car to car, 8 hours climbing. Probably HS overall. Descent would be nasty in the dark, fortunately we made it down just before sunset.
really enjoyable days climbing, definitely worth getting up at 5:30 for, takes a great line up the puig, satisfying looking back up at the route on the decent.
Led 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13
Solo'd p1, then alt leads taking the odd pitches. Brilliant day out - walked in witg head torches to miss the main heat of the day - this is doable but dont turn off left from the path to the face early as we did.as youll end up having to scramble a steep wall before the start (not shown in guide topo). Car to car was 9.5hours, climbing 6.5 and descent 1hr40 with two of us. There's about 4 bolts on the whole thing outside of the belays so you do need gear. Epic.
9.5h car to car. Approached in darkness which caused us to miss the start as we couldn't see the oval shaped recess. Found it as the sun came up. Set of wires, 1-3 dragons and 8 QDs fine for a competent team. Stunning views. Unpleasant descent but be sure to go to the left of the scree to find a slightly more solid path. Solo P1 then alt leads excluding grade 1's.
Lovely Climb, It took us 12 hours car to car as we took little breaks, nice long lunch and enjoying all the climb without rushing it.
|Stuart Macfarlane||25/Mar/14||AltLd O/S||
|Luke Jones||06/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
Lead all pitches except scrambles
Climbed with intention to finish in 6 hours. It took us 8 hours. We lost time between pitch 6-9. Got off route I believe on pitch 11. When's too far left as it looked easier at first. Completed the down climb to the scree in the daylight. Arrived at the scree as it turned dark. If we had been 10 min shower we would have had an epic trying to descend. The decent path is easy in daylight as piles of rocks and red markings make it e asy to find your way. Once in becomes dark you cannot see far enough with a a head torch to find the route down. Allow 2 hours for the decent. You can escape from any pitch to the bottom with a pair of ropes however we didn't climb with a pair. Only the last 4 pitches had proper bolt belays. The odd bolt and peg was ween on the way which wears not always very helpful as it can pull you off the correct path. Personal recommendation for rack. - full send of nuts cams and a bunch of slings, nothing special required. All in all a Fantastic climb and highly recommended.
Totally wicked climb
+ Direct Start and Edwards finish = 13 hour round trip (mainly from spending a lot of time at the summit). Beautiful route which exceeded expectations. We got to the base of the direct start for an amazing sunrise and thank god we did as we were chased up the route by a czech couple and a pair of valenthians. Simul climbed so thankfully were moving much faster than them and didn't get stuck at belay ledges (as the czech couple were). Blessed with a good weather window as it blew an absolute gale the next night. Highly recommended!
Awesome route with Ollie moving together as an alternative to pitching - 45 mins walk in, 3 hours climbing, 1hur 45min descent.
4 hours 32 minutes. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13. Hol - pithes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Great route. Done with Kev Bowser and Dave Clark behind us.
Lead by guide - Mark Edwards
Amazing day! Pissed it down 3 pitches from the top and got to climb some pretty exposed sections on sopping rock and then descent the scree slope inside a cloud. Great climbing.
Great route, did a variation after the second big ledge at about VS 4c
|scott mayled||18/Nov/13||Lead O/S||
|Jonny Harrison||15/Nov/13||2nd O/S||
One pitch towards the top either pitch 10 or 11 we turned it into a higher grade 5 or 5+ going off the route. 8 hrs spent walking and climbing. Got a bit lost in the dark on the walk off walking the wrong way up the road towards the car.
Awesome. Climbing fast and staying well ahead of Norwegians until they shortcut pitches 5 and 6 together. Grrr:) Doesn't go to the summit, but amazing views of Benidorm and descent is almost as exposed as the climb and fun in itself. Snowing at the end for full mountain experience.
Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!
|Caroline 2010||08/Nov/13||AltLd dnf||
Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!
Awesome route! (although not HS) Led P2,4,7,10,12. Fraser a bit off route on P11, made for a VS/HVS pitch... rest of the route only VDiff/S though.
Possibly the most intense day of my life. Approaching Puig Campana in the dark for Sams second ever multi-pitch (1st on trad.), 11 pitches of awesome trad, all led. excellent banter with some Spanish climbers. An exciting via ferrata exit. The weather closing in just as we descended, with ace scree surfing. Then hearing shouts of help through the cloud, Mountain rescue promptly called. Back to the orange house for a much needed beer.
Most epic climbing adventure day yet... Quick start, just after dawn, dodging falling rocks. Lead pitches 4, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 12. With clouds moving in a quick decent on the via ferrata (which does not protect much, scary). Then a very long scree slope in the rain... heard calls for help on the mountain as walked out called mountain rescue... hope they were ok. Big day out... Awesome route :-)
With direct start and Edwards finish. 9 1/2 hours car to car.
Reece Venn, Peter Briggs
EOC:P6, 11 (part), 13 GOS: P4, 7, 8, 10, 11 (part), 12
First trad climb, very good route. very exposed. Very windy.
|wishicud climbHVS||18/May/13||Lead O/S||
Fantastic mountain day. Took 9 hours to climb but we were in 2 groups and let others climb through. 2 hours down. Route finding ok. I moved onto arête at pitch 5, big mistake, belay tiny, exposed and V. Windy, might as well just climbed gully left of arête. Pitch 11 tricky. I went far left groove onto a very polished flake and horrid tat. Only scary part of mountain. Well worth a climb. Mega.
Steady Ascent up a good path then scree to start of climb, the climbing was clean and beautifully exposed in places. The grading is top end of HS in places and could cause a novice leader a few problems. The decent is hairy however it is helped by the wires across the traverse. The huge scree gully is steep. The wind was very strong and relentless throughout the climb warm clothing is a must despite the hot Spanish Sun. An excellent day, fantastic route and entertaining company!
7:50 car to car, 5:30 on route. With direct start, which I assumed was the norm, led in blocks. I led 1-3, 5, 8-11.
Lead all but 2 pitches. Excellent route but strange that it stops halfway up the mountain, we decided to head down as per the usual descent but think it'd take about the same time to head p and over the top. Great route but the Descent is hairy!
14 Pitch MP - fully trad (HS). Excellent day out! Very windy.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||15/Feb/13||AltLd||
Conscious of the epics that others have had we scrambed to avoid the first 3 pitches and strung together many of the other pitches (we had 2 x 60 metre half ropes). We also had Rich Mayfield snapping on our heels early on until his client slowed up when the climbing became a bit more technical. Left the car at 07:45, Back at car by 14:30. Next time we'll do the direct start and the time after that perhaps the original continuation at the top. The descent was quite long but clear to see and easy to follow in daylight and with no time pressure. It reminded us of a bigger version of some scrambly descents from Lakeland crags.
lou reynolds, Johnny Heyes
|Adventure Bennie||??/2013||2nd O/S||
Very long, very hollow (piggy sounding rock) great weather though very windy from pitch 9. Long walk in and a savage decent.. Sketchy exposed and relatively unprotected traverses and down climbs and a god aweful scree slope to the bottom. In summary, very tiring but very rewarding.
Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
led pretty much all of it. badly off route on pitch 4 or something. slow ascent. very slow descent. 13hrs car to car. climbing is straightforward. confident pairs could move together for the majority. direct start.
|craig naylor||27/Dec/12||Lead O/S||
moved together for most pitches and lead some of the others
Wonderful day out - don't underestimate the difficulty of the descent, however,
Forgot climbing shoes so used Tennies approach shoes, 11hrs car to car, worst scree descent I've had to endure to date.
Fantastic route! Cant understand why I waited so long to do it just because its so easy.
Fantastic climb. Cant understand why it took me so long to get round to doing it.
What a route! 10hours car to car. Found the marked descent, but even that is some undertaking!
|mdg skidmore||26/Apr/12||AltLd O/S||
joe penfold, clive dean
|Warren Earle||07/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
First trad climb for Iain and he was a star, Scrambled and soloed short easy pitch - grade 3 back to the ledge at P3 where we had left some water and gear,followed the RF guides for pitches with well equipped stations on the main arete, the top of P12 is a great place to be, what its all for. Forget the time a long day even if you keep going.
|Stickle Tarn||?/Apr/12||AltLd O/S|
Fantastic climbing, great day out. Descent IS as varied as described although for the competent it is safe. Slightly disappointed that this doesnt top out at the top of the peak but it was still great fun. Wothwhile
|Jonathan Emett||31/Mar/12||Solo rpt||
3h10 car-car. 1h30 on climb (direct start)
|Matthew Edwards||31/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Led direct, p1+2 together, Henry led lats pitch, all the alternates rest, I think...
|Alex Wade||31/Mar/12||AltLd O/S|
Very long day. 10 hours climbing. Rockfax guide a bit wrong in places. Pitches get better higher you go. Long long walk back to car.
repeat ascent and v. straight forward. did route car to car in 6 hours, a pleasant change from double that last time.
Tim Josephy, John Hutchinson
|Mick Riley||12/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Alt lead starting from pitch 2,4,6,8,10,12
|Jonathan Emett||06/Feb/12||Solo O/S||
5h45 from parking, incl direct start and edward´s finish. 2h for main route. very good route, hateful descent!
|tim newton||06/Feb/12||Solo O/S|
|A Mountain Journey||?/Feb/12||Lead||
A fantastic day out. Varied climbing with some wild exposure, loads of loose rock, super rough & sharp limestone, magnificent views. As we climbed pretty quick and finished early afternoon we enjoyed a daytime descent which although exposed, was pretty straightforward, just follow the big red dots. If misty (as seems to be the case quite often), or dark, this descent could be quite an epic. Personally i'd rather kip up there and wait for daylight.
|dan ely||25/Dec/11||Solo rpt|
13 pitches, 450 meters.
7.26 start, finish at 15:15 back at the car. Andrew ran first 3 piches together then led 4th. Alternate after that. Climbed in 8 pitches - 5A, 3M
Brilliant mountain climb!
Via direct start
|The Green Giant||12/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
no sleep for 48 hours before hand. Not a good idea...
|Liam Ingram||06/Apr/11||AltLd O/S||
Awesome and epic! Made a drunken decision to do this. No regrets! HS is more correct than 4+ as there are practically no bolts on any of the pitches. Great holds in a great position.
|design crisis||19/Mar/11||Lead dog|
|Purple Roni||22/Feb/11||AltLd O/S|
|dan ely||14/Jan/11||AltLd rpt||
moved together and did the direct start. Did in 1h 50m (stoped at the 1st decent path)
paul (orange house)
|Robin Head||05/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
amazing climbing, but worst decent ever! why? it is hard to find the right point to stop the route, involves some scary abseils to get to the red dotted route if you missed the right turn, it's easy to mistake the first scree slope as the decent (really dangerous as it ends in a massive drop!!) and one usually does that in the dark. The actual decent traverse a long way and has a few hairy downclimbs.
Jo Davison, Jen, Joe Premier
|Jo Davison||05/Jan/11||AltLd O/S|
A long but worthwhile day!!!! An easy walk in, generally easy climbing BUT and this is a big BUT!!!!! a horific and confusing descent in the dark due to the fact it is easy to climb to far on the top pitches and end up on the edwards finish Soloing !!WHERE Is ALL THIS CABLED PROTECTION THE GUIDE MENTIONS? We only found 1 section protected!!! Despite this it is a really enjoyable day out and worth doing :) Also met some great people from the southhampton climbing club who were very helpful on the descent and in return i returned there Stuck? gear.
jon paul clayton
Splendid day out. Did direct start &, accidentally, harder variant on p12 (5+? with 2 bolts & 2 threads in situ).Descent into gully tricky in dark. Start early!
|dan ely||06/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
amazing line, bad top out and loose rock
max and dread girl
P4 J. P5,6,7 M. P8,9 J. P10 M. P11 J. P12,13 M. Easy to join together pitches with a 60m rope. Route finding ok, take a photocopy of the guidebook to be sure.
Max Fitzgerald, Dan...
A fantastic day out. I led all 13/14? pitches with Michael Whitley seconding me. We left the car in the dark and finished in the dark, even though we were moving well. Had no problems with route finding and agree with guide book (HS) as grade. A top notch mountain route!
|Jake Howard||24/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Long day out even with no problems (c.12 hours) Alternate leads
Absolutely amazing! Best ascent ive ever done to date. Went as two pairs, alternate leading. 11 hours car to car.
Brilliant day out.
Earl Gray Larty
what a day, dugs broke leg on way down :(
Superb. Quality day out, with some wild exposure.
Three climbers. Simultaneous climbing for the seconds.
Dave S and Alan C
|Richard Gilbert||04/Mar/10||AltLd O/S||
Via Direct Start. Lovely fine climbing in an amazing setting.
|Jeremy Wilton||09/Oct/09||AltLd O/S||
Super expedition - we did the direct start - three parties of more experienced dudes went past (politely) so we were a little slow - started at 7.30am finished at 4.00pm - take off an hour for delays - hmmmm. Went wrong on pitch 8/9 and went left onto the side of the arete - this wasn't 4+ The descent shouldn't be attempted in the dark. My feet ached like hell by the time we got back to the car. Two grande ice cold San Miguels made up for all that - Brilliant - well done Ash!
Great must do climb
Led the final 2 pitches. Ascent in 4 hrs. Car to bar in less than 7 hrs.
Tim & Ryan
Awesome day out
Had a bit of an epic-too slow on route got benighted just as we were finishing last pitch.Epic descent in the dark- very scary!
Scrambled to avoid first 3 pitches, lead pitches 4-8 inclusive, dave lead 9-13. Descended in dark; powerful headtorch came in /very/ useful
Lead every pitch, nakered!
Fantastic route. Scrambled the first couple of pitches. Only took 3.5hours to climb but with an hour walk in and a couple of hours descent, it makes a full day out. Fixed cables pretty much on all the tricky bits of the descent so well protected compared to the walk off on some routes in the UK. Not as daunting as the guide book makes it sound.
Very nice climb. It's not a hard climb, but the sight is good.
|gordon henderson||21/Oct/08||AltLd O/S|
in the thunder
Descent from end p13, go right, starts with a via ferrata cable, look for large red splodge, and has red marks and occaisional big red cirular splodges to follow. No abseils, mostly a series of via ferrata cables descending quite moderately. I´d say roping up and moving together is advisable on this descent. This descent path/via ferrata ends near the top of a big scree slope to descend to finish.
Didn't have full rack, so decided best to only climb the first 3 pitches and come back another time with a full rack for a full ascent.
Soloed first 7 pitches
|Andrew Sloan||14/Mar/08||AltLd O/S||
A grand day out!
Brilliant day out. Richard from the orange house acted as a guide and was well worth the money. The rock is beautiful - lots of holds and amazingly grippy. Heard a few stories of polished bits and tricky sections - but none that we discovered. There are potentially lots of different lines up and it would be easy to follow the wrong one and end up on a hiher graded section. Overall a brilliant day out and my longest multipitch route yet! Led first pitch and alternated each one after that, although we may have split one of the pitches in two. There are so many that they become a bit of a blur!
|auld al||?/Jan/08||AltLd O/S|
One student dropped out which speeded up things. Easy climbing at V Diff but a bit exposed in places. Walk off more dodgy than the climb. Bus to bus in 8 hours with climbing time of 5 1/2 hours. Direct start will put on half an hour tops. Don't be put off by it's size, good day out.
Sally Brown, A Student
lead entire route
|The Bad Cough||08/Oct/07||AltLd O/S|
Amazing Route, Amazing day, combined with the Edwards Finish a 16 hour Epic
Did Edwards Finish . Great day out
Amazing route! Did direct start, 5hrs enjoyable climbing to top. Didnt bother with Edwards finish. 1.5 hrs to base of mountain. :)
Made an early start and got to the base of the route in good time. Decided to take the easy shortcut mentioned in the Rockfax guide for the first 3 pitches. The description was very poor (a photo would be useful) and we got about 2/3 of the way up the mountain via an overgrown gully before deciding to retreat. Back at Orange House by 1pm.
A brilliant adventure, as expected the start is a bit pants, soloed first 2 pitches in skate shoes.. but after that it becomes brilliant. Ledges all the way up make for comfortable belays, while the faces inbetween still look daunting. The climbing is easy but wich a rucksack and a long day so far its no walk in the park. Route finding was relatively ok apart from once where i managed to nearly climb off the edge of the arete. DESCENT IS PROBABALLY MOST DANGEROUS PART advise keeping the rope out until you hit the scree for anyone nervous!
|Matt Shepherd||06/Mar/07||AltLd O/S|
|Tom Phillips||22/Jan/07||AltLd O/S||
|John HW||?/Dec/06||Lead O/S||
Instructing Tarquin's Exped 2 x students
2 x Students
Lucy Adams & Mark Anstey
|mr bounce||?/Sep/06||Lead O/S||
Amazing day out, great climbing in spectacular situations but very, very hot. Descent is the worst part of it
A perfect day out.
Christmas day extravaganza. Mega first outdoor climbing experince, and legendary post descent longest piss of my life.
Stuart Greenall, Clare Forster
about 5h from foot to summit
|Phil West||17/Sep/04||AltLd O/S||
|shaun walby||17/Mar/04||2nd O/S||
Due to rockfall on second pitch had to be rescued off. Had a black arm for a month but thankfully no broken bones!
|dan gibson||?/Nov/02||Solo O/S|
|John Brayshaw||18/Mar/02||AltLd O/S|
|Simon Caldwell||29/Mar/00||AltLd O/S||
|Nigel R Lewis||09/Mar/00||AltLd||
|Howard J||28/Feb/00||AltLd rpt||
|Howard J||22/Feb/99||AltLd O/S||
We decided to start early and move quickly - un roped for the first six pitches or so, and roped for the rest. Good practice for alpine climbing and a fine route in its own right
|Mick r||?/Mar/95||AltLd O/S||