425m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HS. At the top of the scree slope, locate a painted name on the rock 'Esp Central' - there are 2 painted names about 30m apart, the right-hand is the correct one to use. This painted name indicates the direct start.
1) 3+, 30m. From the right-hand painted name move up easily, to the left of a very smooth brown shield of rock, then belay beneath a long corner.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb up the corner, then move up and left onto the arête. Climb the arête (pegs) to a belay at a bolt and peg.
3) 3, 30m. Continue directly up grooves to a big ledge and trees on the left (this ledge is the point at which the Quick Start joins the route).
4) 3+, 40m. Move right a few metres from the big ledge and climb awkwardly up past a sapling at 3m. Continue up corners and cracks and move right to a belay.
5) 1, 12m. Walk/scramble right to belay on the ridge next to a small sapling sticking out horizontally from the rock. © Rockfax

FA. J.Roig, C.Torregrosa, M.Gascon 1965

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 01/Oct AltLd O/S
tallginge 01/May AltLd O/S
sambeaumont 20/Apr AltLd O/S
Stanners 13/Apr AltLd O/S
the Orange house legends, Andy G
Hidden 13/Apr 2nd
CreepingExcellence. 13/Apr AltLd O/S
mjeffery 10/Mar Lead rpt
jburrows99 14/Feb AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Feb AltLd O/S
plain kitten 11/Feb Lead

TGA Melissa. Superb climbing. Worth doing the lot + stringing some pitches together.

jamie ward 05/Feb Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, direct (5) on pitch 9

Ellis Blower
Lawrie Brand 29/Jan Lead O/S

About HS/VS 4b overall. Long route! Entertaining descent but not too bad if you follow the cairns and red spots. No sign of the big red cirle mentioned in the rockfax guide

Sarah Laing
Hidden 29/Jan 2nd
winston22 23/Jan AltLd O/S
Tim Rodgers 31/Dec/14 Lead
Ross Heron
islandlynx 17/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2,4,6,8,10,12. Great route: quality rock, great exposure and spectacular belays. 11.5 hrs car to car, 8 hours climbing. Probably HS overall. Descent would be nasty in the dark, fortunately we made it down just before sunset.

AmyAmy 17/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

really enjoyable days climbing, definitely worth getting up at 5:30 for, takes a great line up the puig, satisfying looking back up at the route on the decent.

Hidden 05/Dec/14 AltLd
steveprice.exmouth 04/Dec/14 AltLd

Just brilliant!

Steve Woollard
Chris Manasseh 26/Nov/14 AltLd

Led 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 13

John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 26/Nov/14 AltLd
andyevans 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Solo'd p1, then alt leads taking the odd pitches. Brilliant day out - walked in witg head torches to miss the main heat of the day - this is doable but dont turn off left from the path to the face early as we did.as youll end up having to scramble a steep wall before the start (not shown in guide topo). Car to car was 9.5hours, climbing 6.5 and descent 1hr40 with two of us. There's about 4 bolts on the whole thing outside of the belays so you do need gear. Epic.

cdpuk 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

9.5h car to car. Approached in darkness which caused us to miss the start as we couldn't see the oval shaped recess. Found it as the sun came up. Set of wires, 1-3 dragons and 8 QDs fine for a competent team. Stunning views. Unpleasant descent but be sure to go to the left of the scree to find a slightly more solid path. Solo P1 then alt leads excluding grade 1's.

gdjcoleman ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Skullfire 15/May/14 Lead O/S
Jun Minohara
Loubylou 14/May/14 -
Mark Edwards
robblowen 04/May/14 Lead O/S
JoeWakefield 04/May/14 2nd
PilarMartinez 25/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lovely Climb, It took us 12 hours car to car as we took little breaks, nice long lunch and enjoying all the climb without rushing it.

StweRat Walker
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead
SPK06 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Luke Jones 06/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches except scrambles

Hidden 28/Feb/14 Solo O/S
madguernseyboy 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed with intention to finish in 6 hours. It took us 8 hours. We lost time between pitch 6-9. Got off route I believe on pitch 11. When's too far left as it looked easier at first. Completed the down climb to the scree in the daylight. Arrived at the scree as it turned dark. If we had been 10 min shower we would have had an epic trying to descend. The decent path is easy in daylight as piles of rocks and red markings make it e asy to find your way. Once in becomes dark you cannot see far enough with a a head torch to find the route down. Allow 2 hours for the decent. You can escape from any pitch to the bottom with a pair of ropes however we didn't climb with a pair. Only the last 4 pitches had proper bolt belays. The odd bolt and peg was ween on the way which wears not always very helpful as it can pull you off the correct path. Personal recommendation for rack. - full send of nuts cams and a bunch of slings, nothing special required. All in all a Fantastic climb and highly recommended.

Wildstyle 27/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
mrteale 20/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Michael Haywood 14/Feb/14 AltLd

Totally wicked climb

Tim Chamberlain
derryclimbs 26/Jan/14 Lead O/S

+ Direct Start and Edwards finish = 13 hour round trip (mainly from spending a lot of time at the summit). Beautiful route which exceeded expectations. We got to the base of the direct start for an amazing sunrise and thank god we did as we were chased up the route by a czech couple and a pair of valenthians. Simul climbed so thankfully were moving much faster than them and didn't get stuck at belay ledges (as the czech couple were). Blessed with a good weather window as it blew an absolute gale the next night. Highly recommended!

atapper21 21/Jan/14 Solo O/S
mark20 05/Jan/14 Solo O/S
red_rhodesha 03/Jan/14 2nd

Awesome route with Ollie moving together as an alternative to pitching - 45 mins walk in, 3 hours climbing, 1hur 45min descent.

DavidR 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

4 hours 32 minutes. Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13. Hol - pithes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12. Great route. Done with Kev Bowser and Dave Clark behind us.

Hidden 03/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
davidanthony ?/Jan/14 2nd O/S

Lead by guide - Mark Edwards

bob johnson 30/Dec/13 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 -
mrteale 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing day! Pissed it down 3 pitches from the top and got to climb some pretty exposed sections on sopping rock and then descent the scree slope inside a cloud. Great climbing.

alooker 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, did a variation after the second big ledge at about VS 4c

Alex, Ed
scott mayled 18/Nov/13 Lead O/S
A student
JonesJ 18/Nov/13 AltLd
Jonny Harrison 15/Nov/13 2nd O/S

One pitch towards the top either pitch 10 or 11 we turned it into a higher grade 5 or 5+ going off the route. 8 hrs spent walking and climbing. Got a bit lost in the dark on the walk off walking the wrong way up the road towards the car.

five 15/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome. Climbing fast and staying well ahead of Norwegians until they shortcut pitches 5 and 6 together. Grrr:) Doesn't go to the summit, but amazing views of Benidorm and descent is almost as exposed as the climb and fun in itself. Snowing at the end for full mountain experience.

Wildstyle 08/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!

Caroline 2010 08/Nov/13 AltLd dnf

Only managed first three pitches due to time. A long walk in and off. Need trad gear. A good climb (first three pitches) NEXT YEAR!!!

Hidden 08/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Freshprintce 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/13 Lead
cathymiller 25/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route! (although not HS) Led P2,4,7,10,12. Fraser a bit off route on P11, made for a VS/HVS pitch... rest of the route only VDiff/S though.

Hidden 16/Oct/13 Lead
Louvet 16/Oct/13 2nd
BenedictIEP 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Possibly the most intense day of my life. Approaching Puig Campana in the dark for Sams second ever multi-pitch (1st on trad.), 11 pitches of awesome trad, all led. excellent banter with some Spanish climbers. An exciting via ferrata exit. The weather closing in just as we descended, with ace scree surfing. Then hearing shouts of help through the cloud, Mountain rescue promptly called. Back to the orange house for a much needed beer.

vix 09/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Most epic climbing adventure day yet... Quick start, just after dawn, dodging falling rocks. Lead pitches 4, 6, 8, 9, 10 and 12. With clouds moving in a quick decent on the via ferrata (which does not protect much, scary). Then a very long scree slope in the rain... heard calls for help on the mountain as walked out called mountain rescue... hope they were ok. Big day out... Awesome route :-)

Bristoldave 01/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

With direct start and Edwards finish. 9 1/2 hours car to car.

Hidden 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jim-Roberts-1987 19/Sep/13 2nd O/S


Reece Venn, Peter Briggs
HP9 ?/Sep/13 2nd
Mark Hayes
GOS 23/May/13 AltLd O/S

EOC:P6, 11 (part), 13 GOS: P4, 7, 8, 10, 11 (part), 12

Eamonn O'Connor
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
smartie 18/May/13 2nd O/S

First trad climb, very good route. very exposed. Very windy.

wishicud climbHVS 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic mountain day. Took 9 hours to climb but we were in 2 groups and let others climb through. 2 hours down. Route finding ok. I moved onto arête at pitch 5, big mistake, belay tiny, exposed and V. Windy, might as well just climbed gully left of arête. Pitch 11 tricky. I went far left groove onto a very polished flake and horrid tat. Only scary part of mountain. Well worth a climb. Mega.

Napesneedle1 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Steady Ascent up a good path then scree to start of climb, the climbing was clean and beautifully exposed in places. The grading is top end of HS in places and could cause a novice leader a few problems. The decent is hairy however it is helped by the wires across the traverse. The huge scree gully is steep. The wind was very strong and relentless throughout the climb warm clothing is a must despite the hot Spanish Sun. An excellent day, fantastic route and entertaining company!

Hidden 23/Apr/13 AltLd
herman0055 12/Apr/13 -
Theeni 04/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

7:50 car to car, 5:30 on route. With direct start, which I assumed was the norm, led in blocks. I led 1-3, 5, 8-11.

Kitty Court
JamieSparkes 03/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead all but 2 pitches. Excellent route but strange that it stops halfway up the mountain, we decided to head down as per the usual descent but think it'd take about the same time to head p and over the top. Great route but the Descent is hairy!

crustypunkuk 03/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hotcake 02/Apr/13 AltLd

14 Pitch MP - fully trad (HS). Excellent day out! Very windy.

Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd
mikesuth ?/Apr/13 Lead
Jenny Colam
Hidden 21/Mar/13 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 15/Feb/13 AltLd

Conscious of the epics that others have had we scrambed to avoid the first 3 pitches and strung together many of the other pitches (we had 2 x 60 metre half ropes). We also had Rich Mayfield snapping on our heels early on until his client slowed up when the climbing became a bit more technical. Left the car at 07:45, Back at car by 14:30. Next time we'll do the direct start and the time after that perhaps the original continuation at the top. The descent was quite long but clear to see and easy to follow in daylight and with no time pressure. It reminded us of a bigger version of some scrambly descents from Lakeland crags.

mtempest 15/Feb/13 AltLd
colin.morrison ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Ross Bingham
antmorgan1991 ?/Feb/13 Lead
lou reynolds, Johnny Heyes
Adventure Bennie ??/2013 2nd O/S

Very long, very hollow (piggy sounding rock) great weather though very windy from pitch 9. Long walk in and a savage decent.. Sketchy exposed and relatively unprotected traverses and down climbs and a god aweful scree slope to the bottom. In summary, very tiring but very rewarding.

Billy mackintosh, Alan leckey
Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 31/Dec/12 Lead O/S

led pretty much all of it. badly off route on pitch 4 or something. slow ascent. very slow descent. 13hrs car to car. climbing is straightforward. confident pairs could move together for the majority. direct start.

craig naylor 27/Dec/12 Lead O/S

moved together for most pitches and lead some of the others

RKirke 21/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
mikespooner 20/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Aaronsim 04/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Direct start

Hidden ?/Dec/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/12 AltLd
akhutton88 30/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 30/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Nov/12 AltLd
quickdrawmcraw 23/Nov/12 -
Marti999 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S
debbie roberts 02/Nov/12 2nd
tiga271 ?/Nov/12 -
Theantoff 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Wonderful day out - don't underestimate the difficulty of the descent, however,

Hidden 03/Oct/12 Lead O/S
irishguyinlondon 03/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Forgot climbing shoes so used Tennies approach shoes, 11hrs car to car, worst scree descent I've had to endure to date.

charlesmfrench 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Cant understand why I waited so long to do it just because its so easy.

charlesmfrench 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Cant understand why it took me so long to get round to doing it.

michael83 13/May/12 Lead O/S

What a route! 10hours car to car. Found the marked descent, but even that is some undertaking!

Mel, Laura
Hidden 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
mdg skidmore 26/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
joe penfold, clive dean
SeánM 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

stunning route

Warren Earle 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First trad climb for Iain and he was a star, Scrambled and soloed short easy pitch - grade 3 back to the ledge at P3 where we had left some water and gear,followed the RF guides for pitches with well equipped stations on the main arete, the top of P12 is a great place to be, what its all for. Forget the time a long day even if you keep going.

Iain Powell
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Stickle Tarn ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
partz 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing, great day out. Descent IS as varied as described although for the competent it is safe. Slightly disappointed that this doesnt top out at the top of the peak but it was still great fun. Wothwhile

Jonathan Emett 31/Mar/12 Solo rpt

3h10 car-car. 1h30 on climb (direct start)

Matthew Edwards 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led direct, p1+2 together, Henry led lats pitch, all the alternates rest, I think...

Alex Wade 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Henry Brown 31/Mar/12 AltLd
daveyji 27/Mar/12 AltLd

Very long day. 10 hours climbing. Rockfax guide a bit wrong in places. Pitches get better higher you go. Long long walk back to car.

Linda Williamson
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
mark4344 24/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

repeat ascent and v. straight forward. did route car to car in 6 hours, a pleasant change from double that last time.

Dale Knox
cheeky 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
beckybray1 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
rgd1977 18/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead
99bolivar 12/Mar/12 2nd O/S

broken ribs

Tim Josephy, John Hutchinson
Mick Riley 12/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Alt lead starting from pitch 2,4,6,8,10,12

Ken prandy
Hidden ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Emett 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S

5h45 from parking, incl direct start and edward´s finish. 2h for main route. very good route, hateful descent!

tim newton 06/Feb/12 Solo O/S
A Mountain Journey ?/Feb/12 Lead

A fantastic day out. Varied climbing with some wild exposure, loads of loose rock, super rough & sharp limestone, magnificent views. As we climbed pretty quick and finished early afternoon we enjoyed a daytime descent which although exposed, was pretty straightforward, just follow the big red dots. If misty (as seems to be the case quite often), or dark, this descent could be quite an epic. Personally i'd rather kip up there and wait for daylight.

Henry Brown ??/2012 -
dan ely 25/Dec/11 Solo rpt
1918hasti 13/Nov/11 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S

13 pitches, 450 meters.

antonymcphillips ?/Nov/11 AltLd
Tenko 15/Oct/11 AltLd
Guy Williams
AndyFunnell 11/Oct/11 AltLd
Mark Beecher
Marq 11/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

7.26 start, finish at 15:15 back at the car. Andrew ran first 3 piches together then led 4th. Alternate after that. Climbed in 8 pitches - 5A, 3M

Hidden 22/Sep/11 -
Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd
dkd 28/Apr/11 -
Sianny 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Brilliant mountain climb!

stouffer 13/Apr/11 AltLd

Via direct start

Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
The Green Giant 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

no sleep for 48 hours before hand. Not a good idea...

Liam Ingram 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome and epic! Made a drunken decision to do this. No regrets! HS is more correct than 4+ as there are practically no bolts on any of the pitches. Great holds in a great position.

jon clayton ?/Apr/11 AltLd
luke dudill
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
knicos 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
James Chesmer
design crisis 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
kelly_426 ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Purple Roni 22/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
RKernan 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Colleen Mann
dan ely 14/Jan/11 AltLd rpt

moved together and did the direct start. Did in 1h 50m (stoped at the 1st decent path)

paul (orange house)
Robin Head 05/Jan/11 Lead O/S

amazing climbing, but worst decent ever! why? it is hard to find the right point to stop the route, involves some scary abseils to get to the red dotted route if you missed the right turn, it's easy to mistake the first scree slope as the decent (really dangerous as it ends in a massive drop!!) and one usually does that in the dark. The actual decent traverse a long way and has a few hairy downclimbs.

Jo Davison, Jen, Joe Premier
Hidden 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Jo Davison 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
jon clayton 05/Jan/11 Lead

A long but worthwhile day!!!! An easy walk in, generally easy climbing BUT and this is a big BUT!!!!! a horific and confusing descent in the dark due to the fact it is easy to climb to far on the top pitches and end up on the edwards finish Soloing !!WHERE Is ALL THIS CABLED PROTECTION THE GUIDE MENTIONS? We only found 1 section protected!!! Despite this it is a really enjoyable day out and worth doing :) Also met some great people from the southhampton climbing club who were very helpful on the descent and in return i returned there Stuck? gear.

jason williams
JenDurden 05/Jan/11 2nd β
JonBrown 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
jcj ??/2011 -
jon paul clayton
Hidden 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Lead
Hidden 29/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
timcedwards 15/Nov/10 2nd

Splendid day out. Did direct start &, accidentally, harder variant on p12 (5+? with 2 bolts & 2 threads in situ).Descent into gully tricky in dark. Start early!

Andrew Edwards
dan ely 06/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

amazing line, bad top out and loose rock

max and dread girl
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
JimBee ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

P4 J. P5,6,7 M. P8,9 J. P10 M. P11 J. P12,13 M. Easy to join together pitches with a 60m rope. Route finding ok, take a photocopy of the guidebook to be sure.

Matt Ellis
climbhannahclimb ?/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Max Fitzgerald, Dan...
carlh 29/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A fantastic day out. I led all 13/14? pitches with Michael Whitley seconding me. We left the car in the dark and finished in the dark, even though we were moving well. Had no problems with route finding and agree with guide book (HS) as grade. A top notch mountain route!

heathergotrumbled 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Jake Howard 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Long day out even with no problems (c.12 hours) Alternate leads

Heather Rumble
marvin1987 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing! Best ascent ive ever done to date. Went as two pairs, alternate leading. 11 hours car to car.

Thomas Grainger
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 12/Apr/10 AltLd

Brilliant day out.

Earl Gray Larty
Hidden 03/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/10 Lead O/S
saz_b 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S

what a day, dugs broke leg on way down :(

sweenyt 25/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Superb. Quality day out, with some wild exposure.

martinp 17/Mar/10 AltLd

Three climbers. Simultaneous climbing for the seconds.

Dave S and Alan C
Andrewbirkett 15/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Richard Gilbert 04/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Via Direct Start. Lovely fine climbing in an amazing setting.

Paul Padman
ldadams ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Mark Chaplin
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
howhard 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 03/Nov/09 Lead
karen dalzell
Rich Clague ?/Nov/09 AltLd
GScot38 ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Jeremy Wilton 09/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Super expedition - we did the direct start - three parties of more experienced dudes went past (politely) so we were a little slow - started at 7.30am finished at 4.00pm - take off an hour for delays - hmmmm. Went wrong on pitch 8/9 and went left onto the side of the arete - this wasn't 4+ The descent shouldn't be attempted in the dark. My feet ached like hell by the time we got back to the car. Two grande ice cold San Miguels made up for all that - Brilliant - well done Ash!

Ashley Stevens
innesmac ?/Oct/09 -

Great must do climb

Hidden 05/May/09 2nd O/S
steveadkinson 05/May/09 Lead O/S

Led the final 2 pitches. Ascent in 4 hrs. Car to bar in less than 7 hrs.

Tim & Ryan
Mark Fairhurst 01/May/09 AltLd
jacoob81 ?/May/09 2nd
dickie01 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Awesome day out

Nick Briggs
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
sims 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Had a bit of an epic-too slow on route got benighted just as we were finishing last pitch.Epic descent in the dark- very scary!

gav 09/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Scrambled to avoid first 3 pitches, lead pitches 4-8 inclusive, dave lead 9-13. Descended in dark; powerful headtorch came in /very/ useful

Dave, Tim
Lunar25 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Lead every pitch, nakered!

Phil Marsh
Hidden 18/Feb/09 Lead O/S
greenclimb 18/Feb/09 Lead O/S

lead all

Hidden 08/Feb/09 Lead
barrington1978 ?/Feb/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/08 -
John HW 28/Nov/08 AltLd
ebastock 11/Nov/08 2nd

Fantastic route. Scrambled the first couple of pitches. Only took 3.5hours to climb but with an hour walk in and a couple of hours descent, it makes a full day out. Fixed cables pretty much on all the tricky bits of the descent so well protected compared to the walk off on some routes in the UK. Not as daunting as the guide book makes it sound.

John Beddard
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Bruveris ?/Nov/08 Lead

Very nice climb. It's not a hard climb, but the sight is good.

Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
gordon henderson 21/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
crisaitken 21/Oct/08 AltLd

in the thunder

thomasholyoak ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Descent from end p13, go right, starts with a via ferrata cable, look for large red splodge, and has red marks and occaisional big red cirular splodges to follow. No abseils, mostly a series of via ferrata cables descending quite moderately. I´d say roping up and moving together is advisable on this descent. This descent path/via ferrata ends near the top of a big scree slope to descend to finish.

jamie ward ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
prycey ?/May/08 AltLd
Ken Taylor 23/Apr/08 AltLd
Andy Chadwick
Conan 23/Apr/08 AltLd

Excellent route

Chris Michalak
JonT 05/Apr/08 AltLd dnf

Didn't have full rack, so decided best to only climb the first 3 pitches and come back another time with a full rack for a full ascent.

Helen Edwards
ChrisBrooke 04/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
Shona D'Arcy
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden 23/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Glyn 17/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 15/Mar/08 AltLd

Soloed first 7 pitches

Mike Downing
mark4344 14/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
dave tourell
Andrew Sloan 14/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Steve Grove
Hidden ?/Mar/08 -
red-poppy ?/Feb/08 2nd O/S
net 21/Jan/08 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 21/Jan/08 AltLd

A grand day out!

NCorbett 05/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day out. Richard from the orange house acted as a guide and was well worth the money. The rock is beautiful - lots of holds and amazingly grippy. Heard a few stories of polished bits and tricky sections - but none that we discovered. There are potentially lots of different lines up and it would be easy to follow the wrong one and end up on a hiher graded section. Overall a brilliant day out and my longest multipitch route yet! Led first pitch and alternated each one after that, although we may have split one of the pitches in two. There are so many that they become a bit of a blur!

auld al ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
Hidden 25/Dec/07 -
Zoomer 21/Nov/07 AltLd

One student dropped out which speeded up things. Easy climbing at V Diff but a bit exposed in places. Walk off more dodgy than the climb. Bus to bus in 8 hours with climbing time of 5 1/2 hours. Direct start will put on half an hour tops. Don't be put off by it's size, good day out.

Sally Brown, A Student
crisaitken ?/Nov/07 AltLd
gordon henderson ?/Nov/07 AltLd
jcurley 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S

lead entire route

The Bad Cough 08/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
DanT 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing Route, Amazing day, combined with the Edwards Finish a 16 hour Epic

Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
TonyP 23/Aug/07 AltLd

Did Edwards Finish . Great day out

JonHarvey 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Did direct start, 5hrs enjoyable climbing to top. Didnt bother with Edwards finish. 1.5 hrs to base of mountain. :)

Hidden 18/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
HamishD ?/Apr/07 Lead dnf

Made an early start and got to the base of the route in good time. Decided to take the easy shortcut mentioned in the Rockfax guide for the first 3 pitches. The description was very poor (a photo would be useful) and we got about 2/3 of the way up the mountain via an overgrown gully before deciding to retreat. Back at Orange House by 1pm.

Ross Overhead
tskelhon ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
John Warner
roverhead ?/Apr/07 2nd dnf
Jon_Warner 31/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

A brilliant adventure, as expected the start is a bit pants, soloed first 2 pitches in skate shoes.. but after that it becomes brilliant. Ledges all the way up make for comfortable belays, while the faces inbetween still look daunting. The climbing is easy but wich a rucksack and a long day so far its no walk in the park. Route finding was relatively ok apart from once where i managed to nearly climb off the edge of the arete. DESCENT IS PROBABALLY MOST DANGEROUS PART advise keeping the rope out until you hit the scree for anyone nervous!

Matt Shepherd 06/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
Tom Phillips 22/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

direct start

Hidden ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
John HW ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

Instructing Tarquin's Exped 2 x students

2 x Students
Sylvi 14/Nov/06 2nd
JWB ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
Lucy Adams & Mark Anstey
Simon Allcock ?/Oct/06 -
mr bounce ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
andy mcc ?/Sep/06 AltLd

Amazing day out, great climbing in spectacular situations but very, very hot. Descent is the worst part of it

Jason King
Hidden 20/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Sankey 23/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

A perfect day out.

thebigfriendlymoose ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
dfbpdave ??/2006 2nd
Lil'Lou 25/Dec/05 2nd dog

Christmas day extravaganza. Mega first outdoor climbing experince, and legendary post descent longest piss of my life.

Stuart Greenall, Clare Forster
steve mee 09/Dec/05 AltLd
Mark Glaister
will_benfold ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

Moving together.

Ben D
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
HansStuttgart ?/Dec/04 -

about 5h from foot to summit

Hidden 17/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/04 AltLd
Phil West 17/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Shaun Walby
shaun walby 17/Mar/04 2nd O/S
Mark Edwards
Hidden 28/Feb/04 -
Hidden ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/03 AltLd
Hidden 19/Mar/03 2nd
Katex 12/Mar/03 AltLd dnf

Due to rockfall on second pitch had to be rescued off. Had a black arm for a month but thankfully no broken bones!

Simon Edwards
Hidden ??/2003 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Nov/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/02 2nd
John Brayshaw 18/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/01 -
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Hidden ??/2001 -
Simon Caldwell 29/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
Ian A
Nigel R Lewis 09/Mar/00 AltLd
Pete Bennett
Howard J 28/Feb/00 AltLd rpt
John Hopkins
Hidden 25/Feb/00 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/99 -
Howard J 22/Feb/99 AltLd O/S
Paul Barker
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
stugreen75 ??/1998 AltLd O/S
The Youth
Hidden 28/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/96 -
EddieA ?/Nov/95 AltLd O/S

We decided to start early and move quickly - un roped for the first six pitches or so, and roped for the rest. Good practice for alpine climbing and a fine route in its own right

Simon W
steve prior ?/Nov/95 Lead
Roz C
Mick r ?/Mar/95 AltLd O/S
Jim Marshall
Hidden 06/Dec/94 AltLd
Hidden 03/Dec/93 AltLd O/S
sdht ?/Apr/92 Lead
andyfeds ??/1990 AltLd
High 5a
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High 4c
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High 4b
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High 4a
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Low 4a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set