UKC

506m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A continuation to the top is long and devious - stick to the description! Start above the end of the main route. Whether it is worth the extra effort depends on how tired you are!
1) 175m. Scramble up the broken ridge to a stance below the below the pinnacles that block the way.
2) 2, 50m. Scramble along the ridge then follow ledges that lead across the face on the left to a stance in a col.
2a) 3, 50m. The col can also be reached by following the ridge till it steepens, step right and climb to the top of the pinnacle. (4). Abseiling from a spike into the gully.
3) 4, 26m. From the col climb the wall behind the huge chockstone for 5m then aim left to the blunt arete to find a stance and thread belays.
4) 4, 30m. Choose any line (all much the same grade) to the top of the climbing. From here a final 175 m of scrambling gains the notch at the top of the mountain. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards 1984.

Feedback

User Date Notes
notthatcolerobertson 5 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I climbed this route Jan 1 2020, and have put together a description with beta on the descent as many of these comments reference the scarce 2005 guidebook and the EF is not in the 2013 edition. Hope people find it useful:) https://www.colerobertsonclimbs.com/blog/2020/1/5/trip-report-and-route-info-from-via-julia-espoln-central-edwards-finish-on-the-puig-campana
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I climbed this route Jan 1 2020, and have put together a description with beta on the descent as many of these comments reference the scarce 2005 guidebook and the EF is not in the 2013 edition. Hope people find it useful:) https://www.colerobertsonclimbs.com/blog/2020/1/5/trip-report-and-route-info-from-via-julia-espoln-central-edwards-finish-on-the-puig-campana
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: We had fun on this finish. The scenery is excellent and it was worthwhile, even if the climbing doesn't match that below. Pitch 2 in the guide didn't make sense to us at all. Here's what we did after pitch 1..... At the foot of the pinnacles we walked right on a faint path under the pinnacles to a good bolt at the foot of a rock face and 'EF' scratched on the rock. One pitch of about 20m grade 4 with fixed gear took us on to a ledge 5m to the right of the col. We then followed pitches 3 and 4. We found the descent description to be correct and easy to follow although the traverse path to the abseil bolts was a bit vague. The notch is a fine atmospheric place. Note that this route as described takes you near to the top of the ridge but not to the top of the mountain. To get there you would need to follow the descent to the scree gulley then go up the gulley on the path to the true top with the summit register. Is there a continuation finish that would carry on up the far side of the notch and along the ridge to the summit? That would be very satisfying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We had fun on this finish. The scenery is excellent and it was worthwhile, even if the climbing doesn't match that below. Pitch 2 in the guide didn't make sense to us at all. Here's what we did after pitch 1..... At the foot of the pinnacles we walked right on a faint path under the pinnacles to a good bolt at the foot of a rock face and 'EF' scratched on the rock. One pitch of about 20m grade 4 with fixed gear took us on to a ledge 5m to the right of the col. We then followed pitches 3 and 4. We found the descent description to be correct and easy to follow although the traverse path to the abseil bolts was a bit vague. The notch is a fine atmospheric place. Note that this route as described takes you near to the top of the ridge but not to the top of the mountain. To get there you would need to follow the descent to the scree gulley then go up the gulley on the path to the true top with the summit register. Is there a continuation finish that would carry on up the far side of the notch and along the ridge to the summit? That would be very satisfying.
derekm 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I've done this twice now and despite the 'mountaineering' the situations make it very worthwhile, and a memorable long day. Need to follow the route description carefully. The books walk off description needs looking at: we kept left on leaving the summit to follow the steep walls (on our left) into the main descent gully via, eventually, a cabled steep ramp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've done this twice now and despite the 'mountaineering' the situations make it very worthwhile, and a memorable long day. Need to follow the route description carefully. The books walk off description needs looking at: we kept left on leaving the summit to follow the steep walls (on our left) into the main descent gully via, eventually, a cabled steep ramp.
shaun walby 5 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I couldnt recommend doing the Edwards finish. The climbing is vastly inferior to what you get lower down and getting off the top is a bit of a mare.There will always be a route to the top of a mountain but sometimes the best climbing isnt to be found there. If the top is important to you or you just fancy along day....worth doing. If its the climbing your interested in just do Esponal central direct
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I couldnt recommend doing the Edwards finish. The climbing is vastly inferior to what you get lower down and getting off the top is a bit of a mare.There will always be a route to the top of a mountain but sometimes the best climbing isnt to be found there. If the top is important to you or you just fancy along day....worth doing. If its the climbing your interested in just do Esponal central direct
Ewan 17 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is well worth doing, but there was a lot more walking/Scrambling than we expected. The climbing is easy and the route finding straight forward as long as you stick like glue to the description. The walk off is a little longer and more complicated than the book sugggests though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is well worth doing, but there was a lot more walking/Scrambling than we expected. The climbing is easy and the route finding straight forward as long as you stick like glue to the description. The walk off is a little longer and more complicated than the book sugggests though.

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Marión

Grade: 5a ***
(Sella)

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