E4. A good hard climb. Take a full rack. Start at the top of a ramp, just right of Nueva Edición.
1) 5+, 45m. Climb up to a faint groove. Follow the grooves rightwards to another wider one which leads to the belay ledge of Vía Julia.
2) 6c, 50m. Climb the thin flake above the belay to a thread. Ascend to a small ledge and then to a small groove. When it becomes steep, move right (thread) and climb slabs and a small roof. Traverse right to belay.
3) 6a, 25m. Climb to a wall then move right to a ledge. Follow the groove on the left until a crucial hold allows moves onto the left wall. Move up past a peg to belay in a niche.
4) 6b, 40m. Follow the rightwards-slanting cracks to a groove. This leads past a flake to a ramp and groove above (peg). Climb the steep crack to a ledge. Bolt belay.
Descent - Either continue to join the descent for Julia,
or, abseil back down the route via the bolt belays. © Rockfax