|130m, 4 pitches. |
E5. A route up the narrow pillar of rock immediately to the right of Diedro Gallego. Mostly fixed protection but you should carry a good selection of nuts and one or two cams.
Start right and up from the big crack of Diedro Gallego, below a narrow rib of rock going up to a crack at 20m.
1) 5, 35m. No fixed protection. Climb the slabs to the crack and belay on a small ledge just beyond this.
2) 6c+, 25m. Climb the slab and then move left to the overlap and surmount this onto the slab above. Climb to a thread on the left and then move right and then up to a good belay.
3) 6c, 35m. Climb up into the caves above then move left into a groove. Up this and swing left onto the steep slab. Climb up then follow a faint depression left to the roofs. Traverse these right until you can climb up to a peg. Continue direct to reach a good ledge and belay.
4) 6c+, 45m. Climb to the foot of the red wall above and move left to climb some small overlaps. Move right then direct and swing left into the bottom of a groove. Climb this to its top where you can swing right again onto the steep wall. Climb this direct onto a sloping ledge. Climb the leaning wall to its top.
5) 6a+, 40m. Climb the centre of the pillar finishing up a shallow groove on the right. © ROCKFAX