E3. Devious route finding and some loose rock make this a serious undertaking. Pitch 4 can be aided to make the whole route around 6a.
1) 5, 40m. Climb the slab then a blunt arete to a groove. Follow this to a palm tree.
2) 6a, 30m. The steep wall on the right leads to a corner and cracks. Up these to a ledge belay.
3) 4+, 30m. Broken cracks and grooves on the left lead to a large orange corner.
4) 6b+, 30m. Climb the groove above with difficult moves over the mid-height bulge. Continue to a ledge on the right to belay.
5) 5, 45m. Either climb the chimney above; or, scramble left to join the last pitch of Diedro Gallego. © Rockfax
FA. Chema Rameirez, Manolo Pomares 1982
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Still my longest multipitch route by a long way.. 13 pitches, I think, including the finish on Espolon Central. Glad I didn't have to lead the crux 6b+ pitch! There certainly was some loose stuff and the line wasn't particularly obvious, but I was glad we kept going.
A lot of loose rock, poor line, not a pleasant experience. Abbed off after the second pitch.