|139m, 2 pitches. |
A great route up the wall to the right of Diedros Mágicos. The first two pitches are fully equipped, above this it fizzles out a bit. Take a rack of wires for the last two pitches. The name means 'Break Fingers'!
1) 6c, 45m. Climb easy rock and then a small bulge. Up by the fine face until a tough sequence leads to a left-handed finger flake and more hard moves gain a good ledge. Enter the shallow groove above (hard for the short) and follow this past spaced bolts to a small stance.
2) 6b+, 30m. Climb up then left to the top of the large perched flake (old thread) then climb the wall passing a useful tree (peg and bolts) until harder climbing and then one very thin move gains easier terrain with a stance to the right.
3) 5+, 34m. Follow the groove (loose blocks to the left) behind the stance passing a bulge (bolt) before trending right then back left (old peg) over a small bulge to a short smooth groove to reach stance on the left. Abseil from here or:
4) 6a, 30m. Traverse right to a ledge and follow the old bolts up the wall to a new bolt. Follow easier rock to the belay of Diedros Mágicos. © ROCKFAX
FA. A and F.Bayonas, B.Durán, J.Rodríguez, M.López 1983