Rockfax Description
A good route, but high in the grade.
1) 5a, 20m. Start either side of the large flake. From the top of the flake, climb the left wall via a thin crack, pass a ledge and head back right to a sloping stance.
2) 5b, 30m. Reverse down from the stance to a tricky move left to gain a groove. Climb this leftwards to the overhang, which the rest of the route avoids by scuttling diagonally leftwards and up below it to near its end. A tricky step left round a bulge leads to easier ground. Follow this up and right to a belay in the small square corner or the same good spike as SS Special just below on the slab. Most people abseil off from here, the adventurous may wish to continue.
3) 4c, 18m. Trend leftwards across slabs, crossing the gully and climbing a short steep crack to reach a stance on Nea.
4) As for Nea on previous page. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
Abi Chard 18/Jun AltLd O/S

WICM

with Ann B
Hidden 31/May AltLd rpt
r_o_b_h2 31/May AltLd O/S

Led P2, loose block on the traverse

with Matt Harris
Hidden 29/May AltLd
Helen Boothman 29/May AltLd
with Al
wynaptomos 05/May AltLd rpt
Hidden 05/May AltLd rpt
tom.e 21/Apr -
with Charlie Everett
richiebongo 20/Apr AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch

with Phoebe
Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
UncleMephisto 22/Mar Lead dog

Had a route finding travesty, tried to go up the groove above the flake...and fell out pretty quickly! Abbed off after the first pitch as going dark.

WillCful 22/Mar 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
foostu4 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
nodwas 18/Aug/15 AltLd
pie_eater_pete 29/Jun/15 -
Hidden 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
tmawer 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really interesting climbing.

with Bram
BTphonehome 22/Jun/15 2nd

Fantastic and delicate traverse which keeps you thinking all the way.

with Tony
jezb1 08/Jun/15 AltLd

P2

Hidden 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Davesmith1981 05/May/15 Lead
with Si Lake
alexjz 01/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead P2 then abbed off

with Tom Nichols
tim20 21/Apr/15 -
JamesWilliams 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S

tackled the massive flake from the right its a good little test of jamming and bridging with an excellent hero swing left onto the good holds at the top. the move off the second pitch belay feels a little spicy but it can be protected from above (green dragon) the rest is much simpler.

with Becky
beckyjg 10/Apr/15 2nd
Mark Grist 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
kermit_uk 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Andy lead first 2 pitches in 1 i did the little scramble off to the ab point

bigdrew 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Cam
K Dawg 04/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
with Kit
Gareth T 24/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Had to downclimb first pitch after thunderstorm rolled in.

with Tim Popplestone
steven_daniels99 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

led 1st

JamesLloyd 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd
NickJH 17/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with M Reed
Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd O/S
wi11 18/May/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch, bit harder than I expected!

with Jack L, Anna G
jezb1 21/Apr/14 AltLd

Ld P2. Really good. Faffed on P2, it's all there and enough gear.

highclimber 21/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch - Tackled the big flake on the left (there's an absolutely lovely fist jam halfway up). Lovely section from the top of the flake to the belay. Abbed off from top of 5b Pitch. Nice route but it's no Brant!

with Jez
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Pete_Frost 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable route. Led p2. Adequately protected with a couple of exciting moves. Abbed off the in-situ tat rather than cross the vegetation to the traditional finish on Nea.

jon22 26/Aug/13 AltLd
manxclare 24/Aug/13 AltLd
with jon22
PaulTanton 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good route. Second pitch was a bit wet but is was ok.

Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Dan724 04/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Chris Wright 25/May/13 Lead
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Alex.M-M. 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Pitches 1 and 2, abb'ed off tat. Good value for the grade.

wynaptomos ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
martrin 07/Sep/12 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 29/May/12 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch, quite scary

with bed ay
bede.west 28/May/12 AltLd dog

clean lead on the 1st pitch one fall one rest on second, on the second pitch

Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
david morse 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

P1+2, pretty sketchy in the wet on p2!

with josh
sam820 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Terry
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Lawrie Brand 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Matt Etheridge, Neil Phillips
mynyddresident 13/Jul/11 2nd

Upto the second bunch of tat.

with Dan ukc
dan ely 13/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with nick
brockers 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Noodles 25/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and Ben led the wet P2, good effort man. Contrasting pitches but pleasantly so, get your thug on for the start of P1.

Bennykr 25/May/11 AltLd rpt

Definitely more hardcore today as the second pitch was pretty wet!!

with Noodles
cem 22/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Dave Amos
Blurgy319 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
HIGHTOWER 21/Apr/11 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch. Got all out of shape on the low traverse then got across the high traverse.

with Mark Amyes, Pete Staves
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 AltLd O/S
with lee wales
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
edpd1b 24/Aug/10 2nd
crag_monster 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with John Vincent, murphydave
crag_monster ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan ely 25/May/10 Lead O/S

crap belay for p2(aged tat. take med cams to back up!

with jesse
Hidden 17/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
ian d f 15/May/10 Lead dnf

Went wrong way at the top of the flake

with Robert King
JulesV 18/Apr/10 Lead
with Shauna Cunningham
Diggler 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Calder
Shauna 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Jules
Calder 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark
adam coxsell 07/Mar/10 2nd
with Harry
Dave Rumney 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Tanya Milner
Harry Thorpe 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Cocky
Hidden ??/2010 -
HeatherF 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mike H
brian watson 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
g1m147 19/Sep/09 Lead
with Mick.
RobRock84 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S

top section was soaking and slipery which made for a precarious finish however the rest of the rote was great

with Adam Bevan
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
frost 12/May/09 AltLd
with D Almond
Dave Almond 12/May/09 AltLd
victim of mathematics 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led P2, which was quite exciting. First 5b lead :) P1 certainly had it's moments too, what with the man-eating wide crack and the scary thin crack.

with Brian
Hidden 04/Apr/09 AltLd
Bennykr 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
joese7en ??/2009 -
OffshoreAndy 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

P1

with Ozzie Steve
mjeffery 11/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
HughM ?/May/08 2nd O/S
with David Barlow
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Chris Forest
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Bridget
Hidden 06/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Carly 06/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Richard
sammoore 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Will Sutcliffe
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 06/Jun/07 2nd

Backed off P1 after going off-route into a desperate corner. Dan then led P1 & P2. Ab off.

with UKC Dan
dan gibson 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
ritchierich 05/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead O/S
RachubAndy 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dan
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hartley 05/May/06 2nd

Climbed as part of Plas y brenin "touching stone" week.

with nick chapman, neil j
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
rob.grafton ??/2006 AltLd
with Bruce
shoulders 16/Jul/05 Lead
with dai
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
lithos ?/Jul/04 AltLd

1,3

Hidden 02/May/04 Lead O/S
SteveM 01/May/04 AltLd
with AS
rapidrich ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Apr/03 Lead
with Les Goram, Charles Kinniburgh
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2003 2nd

First route outdoors.

The Bad Cough 12/May/02 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
Hidden 09/May/02 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
cem 29/Jul/01 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Miles Butteriss
Hidden 02/Sep/99 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
BenTiffin 21/Sep/98 AltLd
with John Wheeler
NeilGriffiths 09/May/98 AltLd
with Paul Tucker
craig h 22/Mar/98 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 05/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/95 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
ste_d 25/May/91 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 25/May/91 AltLd O/S
Andy Say 20/Apr/91 Lead
AlanLittle ?/Sep/90 AltLd
with Carl Blakeley
michael burrows 07/May/90 AltLd O/S

and ket

with brian jones
NickJH ?/May/90 Lead
with P Carter
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/May/89 Lead
with mark grover
Nick Biven 01/May/87 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/87 Lead
michael burrows 12/Oct/86 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Backinthegame ?/Jul/86 2nd
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
neilh 23/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with simon webster
Hidden 26/Jul/85 2nd O/S
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden 29/Jul/84 Lead O/S
uphillnow 07/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 AltLd
with Andy Heald
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
philhilo 05/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with M Cave
nigehughes ?/Aug/83 Lead
with John Horn
Bruce Kerr 06/Apr/82 Lead
Ken Taylor 20/Aug/81 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick
Hidden 24/Mar/81 AltLd
Chris Terrey 21/Jun/80 AltLd
with Dave Smith, Mike O'Brien
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 -
Falko ??/1980 AltLd O/S

I underlined the phrase 'Very Steep'in the Ron James Guidebook description to Pitch 2

with Howard Lancashire
Steve Lewis 28/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with John Willy
Mark Kemball 30/May/78 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
D Tempest ?/Jan/78 2nd
Bolt Phobia 03/Jun/76 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 16/Apr/76 -
with Pete White
Ian Jones ??/1976 Lead O/S

A Pass classic.

with Chris Newton
RichardMc 25/Aug/75 Lead
with Tony Sawyer
Hidden 24/Aug/75 AltLd
Martin Bennett 04/Jun/74 -
with Fred Dewhurst
Tom V ??/1972 -
Gordon Stainforth 04/Aug/70 AltLd

Tim fell off the crux pitch twice before succeeding

with Tim James
mikej 16/Jun/68 Lead
with Mike Browne
mikej 20/Apr/68 AltLd
with Ian Clayton
Hidden 12/Apr/68 2nd
mikej 15/Apr/67 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
jcw 20/Nov/66 Lead
with David Unwin
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set