Rockfax Description
A fiercely-technical and powerful route with hard and bold climbing protected by small gear (micro-wires handy). Start right of the right arete of Brant Direct and make thin bouldery moves to a small ledge at 3m. Move up the pillar to eventually get to a good wire. Summon up all your power and make a long reach up and right to a reasonable hold. Continue up quickly, passing a slot (small cam useful) to reach an easing at 15m before your arms give out. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Hidden 01/Oct Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Sep Lead G/U

Nearly flashed it but slipped off! Had all the gear in situ when I did it.

with KM
Tom Livingstone 18/Aug Lead G/U

3rd go?

with Lou Titchfield
sev 15/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead β
nathanlee 30/Jun/14 Lead

Ground up 2nd go on a mixture of jack and wills gear. No friction! Nails!

with Will Sim, Jack Lawledge
Ed Booth 11/Apr/14 Lead RP

G.u 3rd go today. Had fallen a few years back and then it had rained.

fennerz 11/Apr/14 2nd β
with Ed and Adam
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Stuart McAleese
Glyn 27/Jul/12 Lead RP

Onsight attempt, three falls then got it ground up with Will's beta for the crux and wIth gear In place. Awesome moves.

with Will Oates
willoates 26/Jul/12 Lead β

Wasn't going to get on this for ages but did after Glyn fell off so did it on his gear up to the top of the pillars. thought the description was a bit off. getting wrong handed on the pillars was a bit of a mistake, but will definitely do it again next time i go to the Grochan.

with Glyn
Luke Brooks 20/Jun/12 Lead β

Took the lob from the crux, awesome! Then abbed down it to have a quick look at the holds. Did it next go, so easy when you know what you're doing.

with Hannes
Hannes B 20/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Luke
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 14/Aug/11 TR RP
Toby Dunn 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A brilliant sequence, with substantial gear. Intense, but not particularly hard.

with Andy Cave
AdrianP 02/Jul/11 Lead dog

one rest, ground up... until next time

with Olli
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead dog
barni 29/Mar/11 Lead β

quick look at the gear

Liam FLeming 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Found it very easy

with barni
Ed Booth 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Few lobs onto the nut. Will be back. Conditions not ideal. Need to man up!

with Mikey G
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rich Kirby 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Sustained-F7a+/b. Top tip...use a sport rope. Great sequence, very sport climb-y.

with Pete
eddy-on-the-rocks 02/Jun/10 Lead dnf

I got my feet above the 'the runner'. There is more gear than it looks like.

with Rich
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd dog
Alex Mason 28/May/10 Lead β

Found it really hard and scary to get 'the bomber runners' in. Only felt E5 6a (bar move off the deck). Hung around for ages, being intimidated by the routes reputation. What an awesome pitch, proper moves. E5.7/f7a

with Laura Perry, Mikey G
Sam W 02/May/10 2nd dog
with Sam Ring
Mike Goldthorp 12/Feb/10 Lead RP

4 star!! Ground up 3rd try, placing gear on lead. Feels really cool to be doing proper difficult moves on trad gear, maybe F7a/+?

with Ben Alsford
Cassidy 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route.

with Neil Busby
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead rpt
IOAN D 05/May/08 Lead


with Mills
lx 28/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/01 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ched ??/1998 TR
jfletcher 18/Aug/96 Lead dog

Fell off after making a few moves past the good nuts. A replay of an attempt a couple of years earlier!

with John Boyle, Steve Adams
sadams 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Hidden ??/1994 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/1993 2nd RP
Mike Owen 14/May/92 Lead rpt
with Christian
Nick Biven ??/1990 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Chris Wright 28/May/89 Lead
craig d ??/1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 27/Sep/87 2nd
with Murray Hamilton
Mike Owen 02/Sep/87 Lead rpt
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
keefe 13/Sep/86 -
Mike Owen 22/Jun/86 Lead rpt
with Mike Mortimer
DDDD ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Simon Lee
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 Lead
with John Baine
Mike Owen 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/83 Lead dnf
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam Booth, serby, Hidden, Hidden, jamestaylor92, Hidden, dswansonlow, Dan724, Hidden, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, richiebongo, Hidden, Hidden, SMc, fennerz, datoon, Hidden, lukea, Ed Booth, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 12
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set