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Katsmiff 04/Jun AltLd

Abbed in above Hallowe'en then had a very dangerous trek over to the base of Martin's Route. This route could be good if it was clean and had been trafficked more. But it was loose and green. Lead the first pitch clean even with a foothold breaking off on me. 2nd pitch was full on jamming at the top, could have been nice if it wasn't so loose, fell off after whole side of the crack fell off. Hated the last pitch up the chimney. Overall one to avoid.

with Martin Bagshaw, Martin Zehenhaken
Martin Bagshaw 04/Jun AltLd O/S

A brilliant route and totally worth the effort (if someone abseiled down and spent a day or two cleaning it)! Still, the route chose me and Martin - not the other way around - so we HAD to do it. I was the only fucker who decided to ab in with a climbing rope, so we probably didn't get started til late afternoon after someone else brought a rope down for us. Martin backed off the first pitch due to loose rock, so Kat led it. I led p2, which had a lot of onion skinning rock in the crack to look out for, and a lovely, steep solid hand crack followed by a couple face moves to finish on. Catherine thought she liked chimneys, but it turns out she doesn't, so I had to take the lead on p3. Not as bad as the top pitch of Raglan Road, at all. And solid rock there. Topped out around 11pm, missed the Honnold lecture, but I'd rather see him climb gnarly shit than hear him talk anyway. Kat got the hump with me for a couple days, Martin took it on the chin as a learning experience. Great line, the middle pitch just needs a clean.

with Martin Franke, Catherine Smith
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