UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Excellent and varied. Start at a groove left of a short pinnacle, or slightly higher on a ledge to do the route in 1 pitch.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the left wall of the groove to a small stance. 2) 5a, 26m. Head up the short groove on the right then turn the small roof on its right. Move up and climb the left edge of the buttress and the steep crack above to its top. Escape off right. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Scott, Ray Gillies, Terry Bolger 1968.

Ticklists

Definitive *** Peak Lime , Peak District Limestone Trad , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Swig 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Agree about the fluttery heart symbol - balancy moves on polished footholds a little way from gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree about the fluttery heart symbol - balancy moves on polished footholds a little way from gear.
Chris the Tall 18 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing throughout, quite soft for the grade, but maybe needs a fluttery heart symbol. The first pitch is really only 4c, whilst the 5a moves on the second are well protected. But as the angle eases, the gear disappears.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing throughout, quite soft for the grade, but maybe needs a fluttery heart symbol. The first pitch is really only 4c, whilst the 5a moves on the second are well protected. But as the angle eases, the gear disappears.

Logged Ascents

401 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wildcat

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 27 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 79
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Rib

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)

Loading Notifications...