UKC

Restricted Access

15th September 2023 Update:

Access via abseil, as per the previous agreement is now restored following on from discussions with Manor Adventure the installation of new signage. 

Wildcat Main Crag cannot be accessed via the old approach, which was through a gap in the boundary wall below crag level. All climbers must now approach by walking to the top of the crag (path to the left of the wall and fence) and abseiling to the crag base. Climbers must not stray beyond the end of the crag or down to the river. This agreement with the landowner should be adhered to at all times and is a condition of access for climbers. 

The crag falls within a parcel of land now being used for outdoor education of children and young adults. For insurance and safeguarding reasons the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site and wish to control and minimise unsupervised access between the public and their residential charges. By limiting access only to climbers who will stay in close proximity to the crag there is sufficient buffer zone between the crag and other areas of the site.

A new fence has been installed along the line of the old wall to prevent the public walking onto the site. This blocks off the previous approach path, but please do not attempt to climb over the fence, or access via the river level gate (even if found open). Please instead access the crag from above by abseil. It is imperative that climbers follow this new approach and self-police. The fence line is visible to instructors using the river below and is monitored with security cameras. Any attempt to access via the fence will be noted by site staff and will result in access being withdrawn. If you see other people trying to climb over the fence, please inform them this is not acceptable – it is up to all climbers to help keep access open.

Currently four in-situ abseil stations are in place at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut’s Anomalous and Climacteric. Once you abseil in, please stay in close proximity to the base of the crag where you will be well away from site users.

Due to their close proximity to areas being used by children, access is no longer granted to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor or Mole Trap Buttress).

 

In the event of an emergency if access is needed on foot to the base of the crag there is a gate at river level. Call Manor Adventure, at Willersley Castle on 01629 348009 and request that a member of staff unlock the gate.

 

Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs and New Bridge Buttress are not within the grounds of Manor Adventure and access to these is unproblematic.

 

 

 

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4b, 22m. Start up Lynx but where it starts to trend left move out right and climb a groove and rib to a stance and tree belay.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove on the left then step left (ancient ring-peg and not much else) and make a short traverse and tricky mantelshelf to enter a wide crack. Finish easily up this. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Will Mcloughlin 1963.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chris Murray 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Friend 4 really useful at the end of the traverse!
Show beta
βeta: Friend 4 really useful at the end of the traverse!
dr_botnik 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 2 ants nests and a rose bush ruin the first pitch. A shame there isn't a better way to access the top bit of climbing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 ants nests and a rose bush ruin the first pitch. A shame there isn't a better way to access the top bit of climbing!
stevomcd 19 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through... Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: May have been off line, but the "move out right and climb a groove" description should really mention the rose bushes you have to plow through... Top pitch very scary, arguably worth HVS, especially in the dark...
DrGav 8 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On a damp Nov day, the second pitch felt hard for 4c. I attempted to continue up the crack but retreated and faced the slippery mantelshelf like a man. Almost chickened out again but eventually committed and hauled up. Tough in the damp.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 70
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wall End Slab

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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