UKC Logbook - 'Cataclysm'

Skip over navigation

> Home <
> Forums <
> Logbooks <
> News <
> Photos <
> Articles <
> Gear <
- Latest Gear
- Gear News
- Gear Reviews
- OI News
- HELP
> Video <
> Classifieds <
> Search <

Search site:

Logbooks & Crags

Click to read about Advertising on UKC

Derbyshire > Wildcat Crags (aka Wild Cat) >

Cataclysm

VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Climacteric

Metamorphosis >>

38m, 2 pitches. A shiny classic up a neat hanging groove above a hidden cave. 1) 4b, 10m. Climb a groove to reach a tree, step right then continue to another of those strange stances in a cave. 2) 5a, 28m. Enter the groove and balance up it to a roof, then swing right to follow very polished cracks in a fine position. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (1pt) 1963. FFA. Unknown

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, The Peak: past and Present.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 231 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Fragmod - Lead - 19/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13

Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Charl

roberto18 - AltLd - 21/Apr/13 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Second pitch.
tsl42 - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Pete MUMC

Lead 1st pitch clean, dogged the seconding of the 2nd pitch.
pbuggy91 - AltLd dog - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Phil Marsh

Good route. Technical but excellent gear. HVS IMO.
mickd - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Led P1 - delicate and then a bit exciting
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Paul Anker

Led P2
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with TimKnight

Fragmod - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

lead 1st pitch
pbuggy91 - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Rosyk

started raining and got very slippy outside of the groove.
Rosyk - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Jay astbury

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12

in the dark, Head torches, yeah!
lm610 - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Mike

Lead 2 pitch. Feet started to ace big time with all the bridging going up the groove. Good belays at the top of pitch and wonderful views..!
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Dave

Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/12

What a route! As cool as the cave is, there is no need to stop. Again, probably a better pitch if dome in a one-er.
Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Ruth Taylor

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 18/May/12 with Chris Vanderz

Colin Scotchford - Lead - 06/May/12

petellis - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Sloth

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with sarah

Seconded after Alan led in heavy rain shower. Wet shoe slipped off glassy hold traversing out to arete. Came off TWICE! Bummer!
marcoleptic - 2nd - 14/Apr/12 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Apr/12

Pbclimbing.com - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with henry castle

Did 1st pitch of Metamorphosis but finished up this route as very tough move at start of 2nd pitch of Metamorphosis. Thought groove was quite delicate and blank in mid section. Thought it was solid HVS.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 25/Feb/12 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/11

Ld Pitch 1
malc - AltLd rpt - 11/Sep/11 with Paul Scott

Led P2. Felt like a solid HVS to me but grade aside - It's a brilliant route. One of my fav leads to date. What's not to love, it's even got a cave belay. Has a couple of tricky sections & moves. I thought the hard bit would be the moves getting passed the roof but it was actually straightforward and brought some much welcomed handholds. I found the groove below to be the crux - sustained, delicate bridging all the way up with poor rests until you get past the roof. Then just as you think it's all over you get to the crack which although not hard took some thinking about... Awesome route!!! My legs are still suffering 2 days later but I'm still smiling...
charley - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Charley Fell

Purple Roni - AltLd - 14/Aug/11 with Mark Hodson

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/11

shaky2 - Lead - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11

Definately top end HVS 5a!
Dizz - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with phil

lead as 1 pitch
davewsargent - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/11 with jeff ingman

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Laurie, Dan Lane

madasten - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Miquel

In one pitch. Hated being in the groove with my feet all caught up in the gear. Moved out to the arete before the peg.
petellis - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Jenny Clarke, Rock and Dole

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/11

stevepotter - Lead - 21/May/11 with Bryan

hellboundblr - 2nd - 21/May/11 with Steve P

vanderz - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with patrick dawson

Hidden - AltLd - 03/May/11

Good, but easy first pitch lets it down a touch. I led P1.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 01/May/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Top pitch.
iceaxejuggler - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Andrew M, Simon K

Andrewmorts - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with John

Tim Brookes - 20/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/11

PW lead first pitch, AF lead second
Andy Fielding - AltLd - 10/Apr/11 with Paul Wright

I led P1, AG led P2
JGW - AltLd - Apr/11 with Ali Gurney

pie_eater_pete - AltLd - 24/Mar/11

keith leonard - AltLd - 2011

Chris Hind - 2011

Hidden - 2011

interesting. worried henry might fall on me from the route next door.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Luke

lukas richardo - AltLd β - 24/Oct/10 with jamie

Only led the fist pitch. Good beginner start to the cave. I Seconded the last pitches from the cave clean with a little beta (when i could hear it from partner above).
Roy Goddard - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10

P2. Top section done in the rain. Found the lower groove tough.
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Lisa

LAlhadeff - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Andy

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/10 with Alex Glaser

Glasera - 2nd dog - 16/Jul/10 with Boulderingmatt

Martin Haworth - Lead β - 03/Jul/10 with richard white

twright180 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Led 2nd pitch.
garywong - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Jason Kleine

A wonderful second pitch, technical but no desperate or sustained moves.
LoopyLou - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Led P1
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Gary

Was HVS when we led it, not sure how or when it got downgraded to VS.
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Gardner

Note to self...Disco leg is to be avoided on routes that require a lot of bridging
minaturechris - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Stacey

Brian lead.
masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/10 with Martin T, Brian Q

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Martin Haworth, Rich Cutsforth

Not sure on the grade but it doesn't matter as it's a great climb with satisfying moves and an appealing line.
Alan100 - Lead - 15/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/10

Done as 1 pitch, easily HVS 5a
jwpil - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/10 with Mat

Lead it in a oner.
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Sarah Baker

Hidden - Lead dnf - Mar/10

fatblacktone - 2nd O/S - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

tigertim - 2nd - 01/Oct/09 with Dave Reeve

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/09

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/09 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - 2nd - 01/Sep/09 with Dave Reeve

Dan P1, Me P2, Really really nice second pitch, solid HVS, great move around the roof, smeary crux
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Dan

cool route
dts - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Sam Dixon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/09

jonka - AltLd - Aug/09 with mark

mark sadler - AltLd - Aug/09 with john

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/09

zard - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/09 with Neil Mackie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/09

done in one pitch. HVS, no question, but well protected and steady at the grade
danm - Lead - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Jul/09

much harder in the sweltering heat felt solid HVS led 2nd pitch
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Alan S

CJEFF - AltLd - Jul/09 with John Williams

I lead as one pitch and found it surprisingly hard for the grade. HVS is about right but I thought the 2 cruxes were closer to 5b. Great line though. Could be a height thing (I couldn't reach the obvious good holds) or unfamiliarity with peak limestone. Interestingly I have just read on rockfax that this route has lost holds in the groove, explaining why I definitely found it harder than VS.
Monk - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Mikey and Chris

Guy Wilson - 2nd - 03/Jun/09 with Rick Cotgreave, Byron Buck

Byronius Maximus - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Rik Cotgreave

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/09

Lovely climb! I led the 5a pitch :-)
Flicka - AltLd O/S - 26/May/09 with James

sgl0jd - AltLd - 26/May/09 with Lizzie

robin heath - AltLd O/S - 17/May/09 with Rob Cole

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09

HamishD - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Greg

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Brian and Dave

Lead P2
madmats - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/09 with si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/09

p2
Sidekick - AltLd O/S - 2009

The second pitch is superb, worth every effort.
riddle - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Giovanna

masa-alpin - 2nd β - 10/Jul/08 with Brian Q

oi_now - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/08

Lead P2. If this is VS then the grades at Wildcat are wacky. Is signifcantly harder than nine lives wall for example. Has several 5a moves, so despite the good gear merits HVS, as shown in Rockfax N. Lime where it is above The Thorn in the graded list
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Ed

James got scared.......
benjih - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/08 with James B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/08

@ndy - Lead - 31/May/08

bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/08 with George Taylor

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 18/May/08 with Rob Smith

I led the first pitch, Jim had the second. Enjoyed the delicate bridging on the start of the second pitch, but the crux, surprisingly, was just below the top for me.
rob wmc - AltLd - 18/May/08 with Jim

Guy Wilson - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with Gavin Moy, Pete Lancaster

great route, nice moves good gear :)
Matt Fry - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08 with Ali Scott

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/08

max_chan - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08

mic_b - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/08 with Jon

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

AntiGrav - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

dobrek - 29/Sep/07 with simon4

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/07

Led second (crux) pitch
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/07 with Mark Boden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/07

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Bob

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/May/07

Caralynh - 2nd - 23/May/07 with Nick Smith

Led as a single long pitch.
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead rpt - 23/May/07 with Caralynr

a fine route, touched the overhang before stepping across to arete top move is harder than I remember, but very safe.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 03/May/07 with Ed

EdShep - 2nd O/S - 03/May/07 with Pilch

russonly - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with GeoffW,

in the dark, wit ha headtorch adn carryign a rucksack. Managed the route ok but my torch fell off on the last move! Fortunately it landed in an ivy bed and stayed on and once Id foudn my way along the bottom fo the crag, the day ended on a good ntoe. If ound a nut by the torch too. Good route, all in one pitch.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/07 with Neil Furniss

lead second pitch, quality pitch nice, varied, and well spaced gear. crux isnt where you expect it!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/06 with andy g

Thought it fairly soft touch for HVS (esp compared to GNR at Millstone!). But nice route and had to think a bit at the top.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Oli

Oliver Sherman - 2nd - 06/Aug/06 with Andy Sinclair

aulda - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Jun/06 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/06

chrisclimber_1986 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/06 with William Kelsall

Hidden - Lead - Apr/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/05

Sam and will - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/05 with Anthony Bennett

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005