Rockfax Description
Pumpy climbing on good rock and gear. Start below a corner 5m right of Brant. Make a tricky move up and right from the base of the corner to reach the spike on the right arete. Follow the arete to gain the crack above the first small roof and follow this and the confusing wall to a semi-rest under the small roof at 16m. Gird your loins and tackle the roof (crux) and steep crack above. Speed is your friend as the pump builds. A final tricky move at the top of the crack leads to easier ground and the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Jono_LS16 03/Oct Lead dnf

Blew the last move.. Couldn't stick the top sloper with a split tip pouring blood.

Hidden 01/Oct Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 30/Sep Lead β

On daves gear, active rest day! This indian summer is wearing my body out ;-)

with dave pickford
Hidden 16/Sep 2nd
anguskille 07/Sep Lead O/S
with Kevin
Hidden 07/Sep 2nd O/S
sev 15/Aug 2nd O/S
Gregory 08/Aug Lead rpt
with Rennie
James Oakes 25/Jul Lead O/S
morganator 27/Jun Lead O/S

Apparently I've failed on this before but I've no recollection of the route at all! Total quality

with Nicky Parkin
Hidden 24/Jun 2nd dog
Owain Llewelyn 11/Jun Lead
with Gareth E
Hidden 13/May Lead dnf
Andy Peak 1 23/Apr Lead rpt

Super climb! Safe

with Si
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S

A good companion to Quasar - a contrast in style but also excellent.

with Colin
Ian craigie ??/2015 Lead dog
with Simon lake
Ed morris 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

After a long bouldering session in the cave. Was fatigued most of the way.

mynyddresident 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with KP, wolf
wolf.leeb 08/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with nic
dannyboy83 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with oli
drysori 21/Jul/14 Lead dog
Callum_Johnson 20/Jul/14 2nd
with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jamestaylor92 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with mat downes
James Oswald 30/Jun/14 Lead dog

Very hard and pumpy, fell off first go after the crux when I got the sequence wrong after getting the gear in after the roof. Lowered off and had a go ground up. Second go I got all the way to the very final move but couldn't commit. I then went for it and fell off with the gear way below my feet, falling about 8-10 metres. After this fall (and bleeding on one of the guys at the crag..) I decided just to do the final section after a long rest on the rope. Ace route, solid e3

Misha 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dave R, Ian W
Andy Peak 1 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Shold of gon for the lead

Kevster 28/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Nibs
philhilo 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Definately dogged. Seems to be a pattern emerging, follow crack to roof, fall off a lot. Continue up stiff crack. Excellent protection and lots of stiff moves especially when you are boxed!

with Helen E
Luxulyan 05/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom Murrell
Dan724 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

Fell off 3m from the top yesterday going for a chalked up sloper that proved totally useless! Re-assessed the sequence today and got it first go. Alleged crux through the overlap felt fine. Found the last 4m the most difficult.

Ewan Russell 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead β
mark mcgowan01 21/Apr/14 -


with John Burrow
wolf.leeb 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

So good..

with Alexis
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
samwillo 16/Apr/14 Lead
with The Bear
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead β
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
BenNorman 01/Sep/13 2nd β

Pretty pumpy and a tricky move round the roof, aint over till its over!! Very nice.

brices 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

thought this pretty tough. the wall after the roof didnt ease up til the top

smallerrich 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S

No where near as pumpy as I was expecting but then I was seconding...

wi11 27/Aug/13 2nd rpt

Easier on 2nd!

with John, Brian
wi11 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Really really hard! Pumped out of my mind!! Good climbing

with Brian
JulesV 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
dswansonlow 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Didn't find the move over the roof too hard but the climbing after that was pumpier than I expected.

shed_hed 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Found going over the roof desperate!

ksjs 18/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with jo
markalmack 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
tlmarjot 25/May/13 2nd dog
with Nicolas Duboust
NDD 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Felt pumped on this..! Hanging around for ages to place gear.

with tim
Owain Llewelyn 07/May/13 2nd rpt
with Gareth E
tim newton 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with liam fleming, stuart lade
Billg ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 09/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fell off pulling through roof earlier in the week. More pumpy than resurrection for me.

Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd β
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
valecoastclimber 24/May/12 Lead O/S
dan ely 17/May/12 Lead dog

damp and hard. gutted

with pitbull
Liam FLeming 26/Mar/12 -
vertically_challenged 26/Mar/12 2nd dog

on 2nd. fell off loads at the really tough crux climbing out of the roof. then it's pretty strenuous to the top

sam820 23/Mar/12 2nd
with Rich
willoates 15/Mar/12 Lead O/S

At my limit, although wet streaks and damp holds didnt help. will do this many more times, amazing route. Also seconded Brant direct and slape direct.

with Jim Burton
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Liam FLeming 29/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Dan Jackson
phil64 27/Jul/11 Lead
CRiddiford 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S

pretty pleased to have got this clean, felt hard but just enough jugs to rest a bit!

with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Tough, and very good.

AdrianP 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Olli
david morse 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Ground up. Failed at the roof last summer, a bit of beta helped this time

with josh
stevebarratt 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Sandercock
dan ely 20/Jun/11 Lead dnf

fell at roof and to tired to finish and it was raining. lowered off leaving nut and krab- any one wanna get it down for me?

with tony (army)
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd
dan ely 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
with ben (the heights)
Matthew Robinson 11/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Nick
Tom Livingstone 03/Jun/11 Lead RP
Duncan Campbell 02/May/11 Lead dog

3 falls. one stupid one low down, but lowered to the ground and went at it again, got up to the roof but fell at this crux, then back to the rest did the crux but fell on the second cruxy bit moving over into the groove. Smeary laybacks aren't my preferred style but it was cool to get on and know that just because I lucked out and onsighted a 7a In El Chorro doesn't mean that E3 6a will necessarilly be easy, still you have to get on these things to get better at them. the very top is a bit of a sting in the tail btw...

with Fingers
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 30/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 24/Apr/11 Lead
with Gareth E
nige 23/Apr/11 Lead β
with adam ellwood
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead β
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy benchmark E3 6a.

zero six ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
barni 28/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Nic cot
Speeddemonsi 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 23/Mar/11 Lead
with stuart lade
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 12/Oct/10 Lead dog
nic42 10/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Jack
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
phil64 03/Sep/10 Lead
with chris guest
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
gforce 16/Aug/10 Lead

Pleased to do this. Had been on it many years ago before I could even really climb E2 - struggled then. A bit easier now but still no walk in the park! Just keeps coming.

with Kath
dave o 16/Aug/10 Lead dog

took a couple of falls from the very top, the first of which saw me upside down under the roof! felt v hard for the grade?

with Julia H
Ri 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Anja Jones
ksjs 19/Jun/10 Lead RP

pleased to do this clean, much more straightforward than i remember. must vie with Foil for the Pass' / North Wales' best E3? whoever voted E4 needs to get out more

with owen
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Glyn 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Just about! Very pumped on the top section. Found the moves near the top to the harder than the roof.

with Greg, Chris Davis
samrad 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S

really sweaty 2day. had to think about the crux.

with helena
givemetea 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S

hard in the grade - left several pieces of gear to extract on the abseil as my arms were so pumped

with John T-CC
HIGHTOWER 03/Jun/10 2nd dog
centurion05 03/Jun/10 Lead
morganator 30/May/10 Lead dog
Alex Mason 28/May/10 Lead rpt

Forgot how amazing this route was. Fell off top move last year.

with Laura Perry
Bennykr 27/May/10 Lead O/S

amasing route, pretty chuffed to get it done finally, was hard work but never too desbrate!!! :D

Hidden 18/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd O/S
soph ?/May/10 2nd rpt
Andrew Barker 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing, the crux felt burly but straightforward. I found the moves above harder and more technical.

eddy-on-the-rocks 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Rich
Mike Goldthorp 12/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Climbs a dream, mostly good holds and it just keeps on coming at you, brilliant!

with Ben Alsford
mr mills ??/2010 -
with ioan d
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Oct/09 Lead
Luke Brooks 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
ksjs 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf

exploding feet at crux - decided to lower off rather than continue in pain

with owen
ksjs 25/Jul/09 2nd rpt

think i appreciated this far more on second than i did when i led it originally: it really is one of the best E3s in the Pass / N Wales. save some beans and calm for the top...

with owen
JulesV 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Dan 85 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Josh, Pete
barni 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with long jon
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 28/May/09 Lead O/S

Great route made even more atmospheric and lonely by being isolated from belayer by helicopter presence on roof pull. Went slightly wrong at the start by climbing into the groove parallel to the crack but got back on the route for the meat of it. Nice day - good times - thanks Hen

with Henry Fairwood
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd
DavidEvans 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Well chuffed. Felt easy.

Alex Mason 18/Mar/09 Lead

Fell-off. Last hard move pumped out, returned to semi-rest but waited too long and was juiced. I blame the calves, very weak, if i could have put weight on them i would have done it. floppy legs. Hard 6c

with Guy VG
Ram MkiV 18/Mar/09 2nd rpt

just as good as I remember. F6c or so.

with Al, Guy & Lee
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead dog
Oli 22/Jul/08 2nd dog

Fell off last move. Pumped.

with Geraldine Taylor
buzby78 26/Jun/08 Lead
Rich Kirby 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ash
Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 10/May/08 Lead O/S

Super pumpy and a great route. One of the harder E3's i'v done!

Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
ian caton ??/2008 Lead O/S

F6c. Boulder problem crux. Super well protected.

with Abi
Rob Pitt ??/2008 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
ksjs 06/Oct/07 Lead dog

annoyed with this: fell on crux even though i was through it; think i just wasnt there today. got back on immediately, did crux again and was clean to top. the upper wall is no path. very recommended - to be repeated...

OffshoreAndy 06/Jun/07 2nd
with UKC Dan
dan gibson 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
IOAN D 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

nice and steady

with gareth
Hidden 20/Apr/07 Lead dog
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 27/Jul/06 Lead O/S

steep, technical, awesome

with Alex Mason
Chubbard 14/Jun/06 Lead dog
with C Godfrey
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 29/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Oct/04 Lead
Gus 23/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/02 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
mux ??/2000 Lead O/S

Date..dunno route: ..I remember not being able to tie into the belay due to the pump... easyer than Quasar though.

caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Julian Wedd ??/1998 2nd
with A. Howarth
Hidden 04/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/96 Lead RP
with Roy Thomas
michael burrows 20/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with mark ryan
Hidden 05/May/96 Lead O/S
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Guy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Martin Reynard
robtrooper ??/1995 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 04/Sep/94 Lead O/S
D Tempest 15/Jul/94 2nd
with Rick
Nick Biven ?/Jul/94 Lead dnf

Scene of my biggest leader fall. Stupidly ended up cross-handed in a squat position one move from big holds and easy ground too pumped to let go. Took a thirty footer stopped by Dave who I pulled a good ten foot up the crag. Ended up eye-balling each other not far above the big spike with the sling. Happy days.

with Dave O'Dowd
ste_d 18/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with angus, mik
Roget 01/May/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Cowflinger ??/1994 Lead O/S
uphillnow 30/Apr/93 Lead dog

date is approx. needed one rest/pull on gear

with Graeme Smith, Mark Gray
Ched ??/1993 Lead dog

1 rest just before the final easy groove - gutted.

with Steve Graham
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
charlesmfrench 10/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Alan Bennett
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/91 Lead dog
jfletcher 12/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Tim Newton
Hidden 15/Jul/90 Lead
Nick Biven ??/1990 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
Chris Wright 28/May/89 Lead
eroica64 07/May/89 2nd dog

Far too hard.

with Ray Hancock
Mike Owen 02/Sep/87 Lead rpt
with Mark Taylor (Fluff)
Mike Owen 27/Aug/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
sadams 16/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
Mike Owen 09/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
Mike Owen 07/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
shark ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Charlie Stripp
neilh 29/Sep/85 2nd
with simon webster
Mike Owen 07/Jul/85 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 06/Jul/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Lone Rider 11/Aug/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
keefe 12/Jul/84 -
steve L 06/May/84 Lead
with Alan Dance
Robmwatt ??/1984 -

Not 100% about date but mid 80s

with Gaz Morgan
Hidden 01/Sep/83 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S


with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Ivan Machin 21/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Mike Owen 28/Mar/82 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 06/Jul/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 01/Jul/79 -
with Tony Mitchell, Joe Healey
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 57
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 54
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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