38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished).
1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove - a side-runner on the right may be found useful at the grade, more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:
There are 2 alternative starts to pitch 1:
1a) 5b. Come in from the crack right of the arete.
1b) 6a. The fierce thin crack on the left.
2) 4c, 10m. Trend left to enter the gully and climb this. © Rockfax

FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967

Ticklists: The Peak: past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

thrutch 11/Sep Lead O/S
with Sven
chrishedgehog 11/Sep Lead O/S

Long pitch, or felt it. Initial crack seeps and is a bit insecure just at the point where you are arranging your first runner. Nice surprise at the top was the realisation that there is a good lower-off so you don't need to climb 15metres of ivy and cabbages and stuff while dragging 80metres of rope after you. Tremendous route. Have ***!

with Kieran Myles
Alkis 14/Aug 2nd rpt

Jack fancied leading it, so I thought I'd see how it would be to second in approach shoes. Not too bad, definitely pumpier than in rock shoes.

Quarryboy 14/Aug Lead O/S

Found the start quite scary but the upper grove only seemed about VS.

with Alkis Tsapanidis, Alasdair Dickinson
Alkis 13/Aug Lead O/S

By far the best route I've done at Willersley. Didn't feel at all pumpy and after entering a groove, it felt like VS/HVS territory.

with Alasdair Dickinson
Hidden 07/Aug 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug 2nd O/S
MYox 07/Aug Lead O/S

Really good first pitch, low in the grade but sustained. Rubbish grassy top pitch - avoid.

with Nina
ned_85 30/Jul Lead

Right hand 5b start

with John Brannock
Brannock 30/Jul 2nd
Graeme Hammond 06/Jul 2nd rpt

Was looking forward to 2nding this great route again but made too hard work of it. Andy smashed it though.

Hidden 06/Jul Lead O/S
Misha 06/Jun TR rpt
with Phil
philhilo 06/Jun Lead rpt
with misha
georgenvk 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best of the lot

penny.orr 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Really fun, though slightly confusing start!

benw681 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Climbing terribly, steeper than it looks (obvs) and a great route.

with Ellie
dr_botnik 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Did 5c start with side runner. Really good route.

the power 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Super sport

with rob
jon_gill1 21/May/15 2nd O/S

a cracking route

with chris Lyness
Hidden ??/2015 -
the power 26/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Did a variation start

with deacon
dan_blair87 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
djones66 23/Jul/14 Lead

Still an excellent route (last climbed it 22 years ago). If there are better ones at Willersley, they're outside my price range.

with Matt S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd rpt
The Reaper 10/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Finished around 11.00 pm

Hannes B 06/Jul/14 2nd
with John Br
Brannock 06/Jul/14 Lead rpt
admackie 05/Jul/14 Lead
with mark
Hardcore Pat 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
the power 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Right hand 5b start

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 03/Jul/14 2nd

A v good e2

with phill ukc
Stig 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
RM199 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hoyes 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rob M, Jonathan H
Jonathan Hall 22/Jun/14 2nd
john lynch 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
eel 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
marconi ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mackie
Robb Bert 17/May/14 -
Thunderthighsontheloose 29/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Marti999 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Jenny Clarke ?/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Tony Holdsworth 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Fine route - a sensible bolt at the belay now.

with Ian Holtby
Kirill 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

With the hex in LTE

with Igor
cem 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
ig248 15/Jun/13 2nd
with Kirill
EeFu 15/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/13 2nd
MarkRoe 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Roe
BRoe 26/May/13 2nd O/S
geoff.comley 20/May/13 Lead O/S

Off balance start leads to the peg. After which is great finger crack climbing. Very safe too :)

Hidden 20/May/13 2nd β
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Peak 1 09/Sep/12 Lead
with H washbrook
Hidden 13/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Olli-C 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Hard start steady afterwards. I lead the loose second pitch to top out. We didn't trust the two pegs to abb off

Rachel Slater 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fun route, found the slopey traverse left the hardest bit.

Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Wayne S 02/Aug/12 2nd
Brannock 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great route, sustain with interesting moves and gear all the way, with side runner in Lime tree edge, went to the top in one big pitch.

Katya 11/Jul/12 2nd
Lukem6 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
catblack 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Bold start up the groove with only a dodgy small wire to protect the hard 5b/soft 5c move. not sure how much a side runner in the rh crack would help cause you would swing loads. Crack is very pleasant, laybacked rather than finger jammed.

with Skippy
Mike_Hayes 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 27/May/12 2nd rpt
nbotting ??/2012 -
crossleysm ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Led through to the top. Some quality climbing in the middle section. Not as polished as I expected and only just in good enough nick. More solid rock than it's HVS neighbour anyway!!

Martin Haworth 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd
sophiecb 25/Sep/11 2nd

Despite the rain and initial sliminess, this turned out to be a fun outing; awesome finger jamming crack and bridging moves, and a nice, airy second pitch too :)

with Jo, Chad
Chad123 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Really nice climb, was super slimy at the bottom so sneaked around to the right to access the excellent groove which has really nice climbing all the way. Top pitch is worth doing especially as the pegs on the abseil look a little on the old side. Good path descent too.

with Sophie B, Jo
The Reaper 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead
Brian Rodgers 02/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Esther Bott
Owen W-G 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Led in one long pitch without any rope drag. Used side runner on LTE which means you rock over onto the right end of the slopey ledge rather than mantle it boldly from the left hand end of the ramp. Possibly means that you miss out on the hardest move, but it's not much of a detour and you'd need to lust for danger not to. The main groove is v pleasant and only VS 5a-ish IMO. Great conditions on a hot day.

Hidden 30/Jul/11 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with al
Glenn Sutcliffe 02/Jul/11 -
with Charl
bigdrew 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Ropeboy 22/Apr/11 Lead

Done in one pitch. Bold start then great crack/grove thing.

with Philip Jennings
Hannes B 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sam M
jwpil 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route, that simple.

with Gordon
gordonday 24/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Jack
holters 22/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
Stumpyham 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Poorly broken toe not enjoying the slimestone

with jake
masa-alpin 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Stunning line in my first glimpse of the face! Tried to commit at the crux, but then climbed down by 1 metre, not fancying risking life on BD MicroStopper No.1... Placed a (popular?) side-runner, and the rest was fine. I think it is E3 without side-runner. Good route nonetheless.

with Brian Q
Adam Moroz 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bold start then well protected romp. 1st pitch only then abseiled off tat.

with john (Krank)
greenclimb 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
tebs 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Not much polish compared to other routes at the crag. Good pitch. Quite bold to the first gear, but steady. Hardest move is off the ground. The final section to the belay is a bit loose and vegetated, and the top pitch looked rubbish so we abbed off.

with Jon
Jim Slater 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led P1 and abbed off. Led P2 after Graeme repeated P1 on lead.

Graeme Hammond 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Jim
Graeme Hammond 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Excellent!!!! loved it so much on 2nd we abseiled off the first pitch and I lead it straight away. Is much easier than it looks from below (well from a person that hasn't done much limestone climbing), great climbing, never 5c though, good gear and I didn't even notice all the polish the guide mentions. Jim led the 2nd pitch for completeness after, I would have done it in one big pitch but only had one quick draw left.

with Jim
Misha 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Excellent route, bold and delicate on the ramp and moving into the groove, then well protected and sustained in the groove itself - not too hard though if you get the bridging right. Hard E1 but not sure where the 5c bit is meant to be as seemed fairly similar in difficulty throughout. Did the second pitch as well, which wasn't as vegetated as it looked from below but not really worth doing.

with Ian B
Hidden 05/May/10 Lead RP
gordonday 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with clive
Matt Fry 19/Feb/10 Lead rpt

Lead both pitches, finished up 2nd pitch of lone tree groove.

Glasera 19/Feb/10 2nd dog

Very cold, rested a couple of times on the lower crux section to warm up.

alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S

By headtorch. I lead P1, Tim soloed P2! Started up the 5c groove.

thrutch 29/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 21/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Aug/09 2nd RP
Sam1991 27/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Down climbed at top of 5c groove, didnt feel good about it, and didnt want to spoil the onsight, will be done soon. Upper groove looked really nice.

with Matt
Hidden 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd
miastacey 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
mic_b 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 24/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Brian Rodgers 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Did it as a single pitch.

philhilo 13/Jun/09 2nd
Ram MkiV 14/Jul/08 Lead β
with Al
Alex Mason 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Started up the direct crack swung out to the groove the traversed along the ramp, top end.

Bluekowari 09/May/08 2nd
with MT
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead
drysori 09/Feb/08 2nd
AntiGrav ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/07 2nd dog
tom.e 21/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Pete
chrisclimber_1986 06/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with William Kelsall
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Sankey 15/Oct/06 2nd

Needed a tight rope!

with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

As a single pitch

with Stephen
Hidden 18/Aug/06 Lead
Ben1983 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
DrGav 29/Jul/06 Lead dog

Pretty runout even with the side cam. Would have taken the swing of my life if i'd come off! Great 1st pitch with three quite different sections.

with Wendy
Martin Bennett 18/Jun/06 -
with SW
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Bry ??/2006 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/05 2nd
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
DubyaJamesDubya 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Feels very bold at the bottom. More like E2. Seconded by Jo.

Hidden 09/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/03 Lead
cem 10/May/02 Lead O/S

Repeated since

with James Gregory
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S

Led at least twice. Seems more like E2 for the boldness low down.

Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Roget 12/Aug/99 Solo rpt
CrashMat Rob 28/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 16/May/98 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 04/Oct/97 Lead

Did original start (5b) to get to groove

with Derek Ashworth
Stoney Boy 09/Oct/96 Lead O/S
with Justin Beeley
Hidden 06/Aug/95 2nd
rob.grafton 24/Apr/95 Lead
with Bruce
nai ??/1995 Lead
SteveB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 Lead

Seconded in 1991 then lead in 1993.

Gordon Stainforth 18/Jul/94 2nd
with John Stainforth, Steve Dean
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/94 -
with SF
Hidden 01/Jul/94 2nd
Roget 13/Mar/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/93 2nd O/S
nickcanute ??/1993 Lead
andrew300169 19/Aug/92 Lead β
with Jason Woz Jools
Budge ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
marcoleptic ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Moley
Hidden 10/Sep/91 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/91 Lead
g1m147 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Mick.
tlr 20/Jul/91 2nd
with Roger
jcw 09/Jun/91 -
with Martin Harris
NickJH ??/1991 -
Hidden 30/May/90 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/May/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 17/Aug/89 Lead
BigHairyIan 15/Jul/89 2nd O/S
GuySummers 15/Jul/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Michael Hood 13/Jul/88 Lead
ukb shark 09/Jul/87 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/87 Lead
Billg 22/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 23/Jul/86 2nd
RichardMc 20/Jul/86 2nd
with Pete Stokes
keefe 23/Nov/85 -
sadams 22/Jun/85 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 29/Aug/84 Lead
Martin Bennett 17/Aug/84 -
with Cec
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 24/Aug/83 AltLd O/S


TonyF ??/1983 Lead
with Tony Cox
Hidden 20/Jun/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson ??/1981 Lead O/S
Ian Clare ??/1981 -
babymoac 13/Jun/80 Lead
with MTW
Hidden ?/May/80 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/80 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 -

no details, possibly with Pog

Rog Wilko ?/Jul/78 2nd
with Pat Taylor
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
clanger ??/1972 -
Dave Musgrove 23/Oct/71 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 52
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set