Derbyshire > Willersley Castle Rocks >
 
Lime Street Direct*** E1 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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[mr cool on a hot day, 3 kb]38m, 2 pitches. One of the best routes here - steep, sustained (and polished). 1) 5c, 25m. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove - a side-runner on the right may be found useful at the grade, more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or: There are 2 alternative starts to pitch 1: 1a) 5b. Come in from the crack right of the arete. 1b) 6a. The fierce thin crack on the left. 2) 4c, 10m. Trend left to enter the gully and climb this. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967

Ticklists: The Peak: past and Present, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: mr cool on a hot day © colin milton
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 156 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Mike Hayes

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with jenny

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Debbie

Jenny Clarke - 2nd - Jul/13 with Chriswallis2

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/13

Fine route - a sensible bolt at the belay now.
Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Ian Holtby

With the hex in LTE
Kirill - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

cem - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong

ig248 - 2nd - 15/Jun/13 with Kirill

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/13

MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Ben Roe

BRoe - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mark Roe

Off balance start leads to the peg. After which is great finger crack climbing. Very safe too :)
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 20/May/13 with Vic Paterson

Hidden - 2nd β - 20/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

ejected - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with H washbrook

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/12

Hard start steady afterwards. I lead the loose second pitch to top out. We didn't trust the two pegs to abb off
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Rachel Slater

Fun route, found the slopey traverse left the hardest bit.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Wayne S - 2nd - 02/Aug/12

Great route, sustain with interesting moves and gear all the way, with side runner in Lime tree edge, went to the top in one big pitch.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

Katya - 2nd - 11/Jul/12 with Chris Coleman

Lukem6 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Jenny Monkey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12

Bold start up the groove with only a dodgy small wire to protect the hard 5b/soft 5c move. not sure how much a side runner in the rh crack would help cause you would swing loads. Crack is very pleasant, laybacked rather than finger jammed.
catblack - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Skippy

wolverine - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Matt Sparkes

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12 with Pete

nbotting - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Led through to the top. Some quality climbing in the middle section. Not as polished as I expected and only just in good enough nick. More solid rock than it's HVS neighbour anyway!!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Dave Laws

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Oct/11

Despite the rain and initial sliminess, this turned out to be a fun outing; awesome finger jamming crack and bridging moves, and a nice, airy second pitch too :)
sophiecb - 2nd - 25/Sep/11 with Jo, Chad

Really nice climb, was super slimy at the bottom so sneaked around to the right to access the excellent groove which has really nice climbing all the way. Top pitch is worth doing especially as the pegs on the abseil look a little on the old side. Good path descent too.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Sophie B, Jo

Chris M - Lead - 06/Aug/11

Brian Rodgers - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/11 with Esther Bott

Led in one long pitch without any rope drag. Used side runner on LTE which means you rock over onto the right end of the slopey ledge rather than mantle it boldly from the left hand end of the ramp. Possibly means that you miss out on the hardest move, but it's not much of a detour and you'd need to lust for danger not to. The main groove is v pleasant and only VS 5a-ish IMO. Great conditions on a hot day.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Preston Matt

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with al

Glenn Sutcliffe - 02/Jul/11 with Charl

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with James Blake

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Simon Wren

Done in one pitch. Bold start then great crack/grove thing.
Ropeboy - Lead - 22/Apr/11 with Philip Jennings

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Sam M

Awesome route, that simple.
jwpil - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Gordon

gordonday - 2nd rpt - 24/Mar/11 with Jack

holters - Lead - 22/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/10

Poorly broken toe not enjoying the slimestone
Stumpyham - Lead dnf - 08/Aug/10 with jake

Stunning line in my first glimpse of the face! Tried to commit at the crux, but then climbed down by 1 metre, not fancying risking life on BD MicroStopper No.1... Placed a (popular?) side-runner, and the rest was fine. I think it is E3 without side-runner. Good route nonetheless.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Brian Q

Bold start then well protected romp. 1st pitch only then abseiled off tat.
Adam Moroz - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Led P1 and abbed off. Led P2 after Graeme repeated P1 on lead.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Jim

Excellent!!!! loved it so much on 2nd we abseiled off the first pitch and I lead it straight away. Is much easier than it looks from below (well from a person that hasn't done much limestone climbing), great climbing, never 5c though, good gear and I didn't even notice all the polish the guide mentions. Jim led the 2nd pitch for completeness after, I would have done it in one big pitch but only had one quick draw left.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Jim

Excellent route, bold and delicate on the ramp and moving into the groove, then well protected and sustained in the groove itself - not too hard though if you get the bridging right. Hard E1 but not sure where the 5c bit is meant to be as seemed fairly similar in difficulty throughout. Did the second pitch as well, which wasn't as vegetated as it looked from below but not really worth doing.
Misha - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Ian B

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/May/10

gordonday - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with clive

Lead both pitches, finished up 2nd pitch of lone tree groove.
Matt Fry - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/10 with Alex Glaser

Very cold, rested a couple of times on the lower crux section to warm up.
Glasera - 2nd dog - 19/Feb/10 with Boulderingmatt

alasdair19 - 2010

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/09

By headtorch. I lead P1, Tim soloed P2! Started up the 5c groove.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/09 with Tim Ashcroft

thrutch - 2nd - 29/Sep/09 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd RP - 19/Aug/09

Down climbed at top of 5c groove, didnt feel good about it, and didnt want to spoil the onsight, will be done soon. Upper groove looked really nice.
Sam1991 - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/09 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/09

miastacey - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Bob Smith

mic_b - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with mrsbate

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/09

Did it as a single pitch.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Phil Leng

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 14/Jul/08 with Al

Started up the direct crack swung out to the groove the traversed along the ramp, top end.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/08 with Steve Ramsden

Bluekowari - 2nd - 09/May/08 with MT

Hidden - Lead - 09/Feb/08

AntiGrav - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/07

Led p2
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 21/May/07 with Pete

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/07 with William Kelsall

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Needed a tight rope!
Sankey - 2nd - 15/Oct/06 with Luke

As a single pitch
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Stephen

Hidden - Lead - 18/Aug/06

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06

Pretty runout even with the side cam. Would have taken the swing of my life if i'd come off! Great 1st pitch with three quite different sections.
DrGav - Lead dog - 29/Jul/06 with Wendy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/05

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2004 with john d

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/03

Repeated since
cem - Lead O/S - 10/May/02 with James Gregory

EagerAndy - 2000

Roget - Solo rpt - 12/Aug/99

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/98 with Nicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/98

Did original start (5b) to get to groove
nickdonohue - Lead - 04/Oct/97 with Derek Ashworth

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/96 with Justin Beeley

ChrisJD - 2nd - 06/Aug/95 with Alex

rob.grafton - Lead - 24/Apr/95 with Bruce

nai - Lead - 1995

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 18/Jul/94 with John Stainforth, Steve Dean

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/94

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/94

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/93

nickcanute - Lead - 1993

andrew300169 - Lead β - 19/Aug/92 with Jason Woz Jools

Budge - Lead O/S - 1992 with Brian Ottewell

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 1992 with Moley

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/91

ChrisJD - Lead - 01/Sep/91

tlr - 2nd - 20/Jul/91 with Roger

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/May/90

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/90

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/89

BigHairyIan - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/89 with Guy Summers

GuySummers - Lead - 15/Jul/89 with bighairyian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/88

Michael Hood - Lead - 13/Jul/88

shark - Lead - 09/Jul/87

Brilliant
pebblespanker - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/87 with Pete Carter

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/87 with Dave Gregory

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/86

RichardMc - 2nd - 20/Jul/86 with Pete Stokes

keefe - 23/Nov/85

sadams - Lead - 22/Jun/85 with Kevin Edwards

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/84

Ian Clare - 1984

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/83

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/81

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 1981

Ian Clare - 1981

babymoac - Lead - 13/Jun/80 with MTW

Hidden - 2nd - May/80

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Rog Wilko - 2nd - Jul/78 with Pat Taylor

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

Dave Musgrove - 23/Oct/71

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex.M-M., Dan Lane, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 120
hard E20 of 41
E20 of 41
easy E22 of 41
hard E114 of 41
E121 of 41
easy E14 of 41
hard HVS0 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard 6a0 of 42
6a0 of 42
easy 6a1 of 42
hard 5c1 of 42
5c18 of 42
easy 5c11 of 42
hard 5b11 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
3 Stars29 of 37
2 Stars7 of 37
1 Star0 of 37
0 Stars1 of 37
Bag of .....0 of 37
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 156 (0.6%)
Lead93 of 156 (59.6%)
Followed45 of 156 (28.8%)
Alt Leads4 of 156 (2.6%)
Unknown13 of 156 (8.3%)

'Climbed'66 of 156 (42.3%)
clean O/S68 of 156 (43.6%)
clean β3 of 156 (1.9%)
clean rpt11 of 156 (7.1%)
clean RP2 of 156 (1.3%)
dogged3 of 156 (1.9%)
dnf3 of 156 (1.9%)