A fine sustained pitch following the long crack-line to the right of the arete, to the Lime Street stance. The crux section is wide and slippery, bring plenty of big gear. From the stance, finish up pitch 2 of either Lime Street Direct, or Lone Tree Groove. © Rockfax
FA. M.Harris, Steve Read 1970
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Seriously tough crux moves. Good gear at bottom of peapod crack but didn't know whether to layback the left edge or try snd squirm up the crack itself. Either way felt desperate. Got pumped and down climbed stripping gear. Need to get strong, grow 5 inches and go back armed with a massive cam. This is definitely not E1!!! Very good climb though but almost ungradable due to it being so safe but massively burly. Reminds me of some of the grit sandbags like The Unprintable. I'd recommend anyone to get on this just to experience it. Humbling.
Phil backed off so I had to sort the men from the boys. Seriously struggled with the crux offwidth and just scraped up it where I vomited down lime street. Then zigzagged through loose rock and vegetation until somehow finding the belay. Fairly character building and hard for the grade :)
|the power||26/Jul/14||Lead dnf||
|Martin Haworth||28/Jul/12||Lead dnf||
Wrong route to warm up on! Got pumped, fell off, finished up Lone Tree Groove.
I underestimated this as well and got lowered off after resting on gear. Felt very tired all day so it was a bad idea to try it in the first place
Fell of the crux 4 times taking a good 5 or 6 metre lob. retreated pumped and finnished after a rest. underestimated this climb!