UKC

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

35m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning groove left of a large Y-trunked tree is steep and sustained. Pass the bulge (crux - old peg) for more of the same then escape left up the groove. Easier for the long-legged. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Gomersall 1976. FA. Terry Bolger, Phil Lee (2 pts, AL) 26/5/1968.

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist

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User Date Notes
Ian Milward 21 Jul, 2014 Show βeta
βeta: Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Given a good clean last week. A Willersley favourite now back on the menu....
roger whetton 5 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 'Wind of Change' at (a good) E1 5b is worthwhile in this area.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'Wind of Change' at (a good) E1 5b is worthwhile in this area.

Logged Ascents

64 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Impossible Slab

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stanage North)

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