Derbyshire > Willersley Castle Rocks >
 
Garrotter*** VS 4c

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35m, 2 pitches. One of the original classic of the crag is now very polished but still well-worth doing anyway. 1) 4b, 15m. Follow the slabby groove, turn the overhang on the right, then traverse back left to small stance and tree belay. 2) 4c, 20m. Continue up the fine upper groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Steve Read, K.Beech 1959

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 216 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/12

wolverine - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Chris Coleman, Iain Mount

Jones_d - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Jeff Williams

Gets rather slippery when wet and quite polished in places. Has a great range of moves and features on it.
mapperley samurai - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with John Cook

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Julian L

Done as 1 pitch. Not that sustained.
Julian Lane - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Mynydd James

Phill Mitch - AltLd rpt - 05/Aug/12 with bleggs

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12

Katya - Lead - 11/Jul/12 with Chris

Oceanic - 27/May/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 27/May/12

Polished...
charley - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Charley Fell

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/12

chris p1 and me p2.nice climb but sadly very polished!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with chris Lyness

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/12

helios - 2nd - 18/May/12 with Simon Bailey

davewsargent - AltLd rpt - May/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12

ash longreach - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

nbotting - 2012

daveclarke5 - AltLd - 23/Oct/11 with Andy

Quite polished
MTBAnimal - AltLd dnf - 01/Oct/11

slacky - 2nd rpt - 01/Oct/11 with Chris Saunders

Followed it in one big pitch - slippery!!!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 24/Aug/11 with Dave Clay

Led P1.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Preston Matt

jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Adrian

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 31/Jul/11 with Clare

A really nice route if a little polished.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Andy Barker

Led pitch 1, enjoyed it =) Pitch 2 crux had a commiting feel but leader said it was good
Laura-lou - AltLd - 23/Jul/11 with Paul Shepherd

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 10/Jul/11 with Steve Goodman

lead top pitch
davewsargent - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11

Led second pitch. Upper groove was soggy, good pockets on right wall were very useful
adam carless - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with James Rowe

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/11

slacky - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Ben

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/11

Byronius Maximus - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Andy Winter

Lead first pitch, much easier than second. Really good fun. The birds nesting in the cracks above the roof were not happy at me being there.
Paul1 - AltLd - 27/May/11 with tim

shaun walby - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Ian Holtby

Chris Hind - 2011 with ash

I led the first pitch, Alan led the second.
rob wmc - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Alan

Shiny shiny
danm - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Carwyn

led both pitches
tallsop - Lead - 06/Jul/10 with terry

seconding a grit E5 6c climber having "issues", oh what fun!
Milne - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/10 with tom allsop

Sarah Brookes - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/10 with terry, tom

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Jul/10 with H washbrook

Schmindie - 01/Jul/10 with Joe, Tony

twright180 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10

Phill Mitch - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/10 with gaz

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/10

Quite good i thought at the time, but can't remember much two days later. Except that it was a bit shiny.
Bart Shaw - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Tim, Sci

Led 2nd pitch
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Si, Bart

Alkis - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Chris Aslin

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with alkis

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/10

1st Pitch Lead
jwpil - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/10 with Mat

migs493 - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with LO

Milne - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/10 with sarah.

1st ever multi pitch.
Sarah Brookes - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/10 with terry

paddygoodwin - AltLd - 2010 with Thea

holters - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

alasdair19 - 2010

p 1
Sari Nevala - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/09

ed woods - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/09 with Adam

My First time on Limestone. Good route.
radioactivekid - TR O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Charles

Led as a single pitch
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Louise Rodgers

Ketu - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/09 with Graeme H

nice lead as one pitch, only one move really affected by polish
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09

Great route, worth every star.
Byronius Maximus - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Michael King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with mrsbate

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/09

Actually climbed it smoothly this time which was an achievment after last time - chuffed
monkey1 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09

Led the top (4c) pitch, whole route seemed enjoyable.
Flicka - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with Alex Newman

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/09

1st Pitch only (clean)
dpmUK - Lead dnf - 12/May/09 with Cider Nut

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/09

monkey1 - 2nd dnf - 2009

Michelle_250 - Lead O/S - 2009

joese7en - Lead O/S - 2009

trigger118 - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Al Randall

Adderbury Climber - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Al Randal

matthewjc - Lead - 02/Aug/08 with Andy

Polished near the top at the groove section, nice route
CragHead - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

djp1 - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08 with Greg

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/08

b.hayley - AltLd - Jul/08

Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Sam Dixon

p1 only, wet
dts - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/08 with Sam Dixon

Technically didnt finish it, but only because it was throwing it down, and the 2nd pitch was soaked! Cool move around the roof followed by mega-jug.
Sam1991 - 2nd dnf - 21/Jun/08 with Dan

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Al Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08

Went back and did it again in the dry. Ran both pitches together with a mega extender under the roof. Great climbing, run it out a bit for added enjoyment:)
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Matt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/May/08

morganator - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Peter Folkman

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

AntiGrav - Lead - 2008

aulda - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/07 with Kulbir

Sankey - AltLd - 01/Sep/07 with Tom

led second pitch, the whole route is incredibly polished.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Paul

Ran it as one pitch, pretty straightforward for the grade.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/07 with Brid

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/07

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 15/Aug/07 with Vishone set (Mike)

BallsofBritishSteel - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Sailor Pete

Katya - 2nd - 06/May/07 with Simon Dale

Hidden - 2nd - 06/May/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/07

Lead P2
Sankey - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Andy E

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with William Kelsall

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07

Lead 1st pitch seconded 2nd pitch great climb, it's been a few years since i did this climb and look forward to doing it again.
Dhcol - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Martin Whealen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07

Pete Horn - Lead O/S - 2007 with The artist formerly known as Smokey Rob

Mike - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/06 with Chris Berryman

Ran both pitches together
Sankey - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/06 with Luke

As one pitch
thebigfriendlymoose - 2nd β - 15/Oct/06 with Stephen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/06

Led pitch 2
Milne - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/06 with Ned

did the first pitch this time
colin milton - AltLd - 26/Jul/06 with wilf1

colin milton - Lead - 19/Jul/06 with pep

Sankey - AltLd - 06/Jun/06 with John + Eddy

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/06

Led top pitch (in the dark!!!)
Whealiebob - AltLd dog - 18/Mar/06 with Terry

Led pitch 1
Milne - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/05

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Trev Tatler

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - 2005 with Helen Lear

Hidden - 2nd RP - 21/Jul/04

Budge - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/04 with Martin Gillie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/03

I led top pitch. Got caught halfway up by the Christians, so finished the route and left.
Phil West - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/02 with Chris Tan

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2002 with Adrian Whitehall

philb - Lead - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/99 with Louise Pellett

sdht - 1999

Also several times since
cem - Lead O/S - Oct/98 with Gordon Carder

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - Sep/98

Ellen pitch 1, me pitch 2
richard31 - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/98 with Ellen French

Backinthegame - AltLd - May/98 with Lynn Wilkins

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1998 with jim

richard31 - 2nd β - 17/Aug/97 with Ellen French

stevieb - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/97 with Pete Sterling, Paul O'Looney

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Jun/97

I forgot how good this is
andrew300169 - 2nd - Jun/97 with Judy

madagascar - Lead - Jun/97 with andrew300169

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/96

tlr - Lead - 31/Oct/95 with Pete D

stevieb - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/95 with Jon Fisher

I led first pitch, Bill led the second
Chris the Tall - AltLd - Aug/95 with Bill G

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 16/Jul/95

Daniel Wrightson - Lead - 07/May/95 with Richard Bradbury

Jim finished in the dark.
andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/95 with Jim

nai - Lead - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/94

Phil1967 - Lead - 05/Oct/94 with Bruv

andrewbooth1000 - 2nd - 05/Oct/94 with Bruv & Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/94

Hidden - Jul/94

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/94

Led pitch 2
Iain Thow - AltLd - 21/Aug/93 with Rob Ivens

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/93

nickcanute - Lead - 1993

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 11/Oct/92

Roget - Solo rpt - 12/Jul/92

malc - Lead - 24/May/92

Budge - Lead - May/92 with Brian Ottewell

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/92

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 1992 with Mel, Moley

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 16/Jun/91 with Rene--

Hidden - Solo - 23/Jun/90

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 30/May/90 with Ian Milne

dodders - AltLd - 14/May/90 with Dick Hargreaves

Hidden - 1990

RichardMc - Lead - 24/Apr/88 with Jon Clifford-Smith

pebblespanker - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/87 with Pete Carter

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Clare - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/82

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Alfreton MC

Ian Clare - 1981

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/78 with Sarah Bridge

RichardMc - AltLd - 20/Nov/77 with Tony Williams

Pedro50 - Lead - 12/Apr/77 with Caroline Fitzgerald

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/77

Nigel Bond - Lead - 24/Jul/76 with Andy Brown

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Aug/75

RichardMc - Lead - 16/Jun/74 with Daphne Pritchard

rogerskews - AltLd - 1973 with CMC Members

Peg for aid on the top pitch in the rain!
Andy Say - Lead - 1973

Rog Wilko - Lead - Sep/72 with Debbie Wilkinson

greenbuoy - AltLd - 16/Jan/72 with Bob Lister

tapley - 2nd - 01/Jan/72 with Dave Hearnshaw

Hidden - Lead - 1969

Dave Musgrove - 07/Jan/68 with Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
joe hallam, Ander, jonty7, tobydunford, PanzerHanzler, Peakology, barrylong

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard HVS0 of 34
HVS0 of 34
easy HVS0 of 34
hard VS0 of 34
VS31 of 34
easy VS3 of 34
hard HS0 of 34
HS0 of 34
easy HS0 of 34
hard 5a0 of 36
5a0 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
hard 4c3 of 36
4c29 of 36
easy 4c2 of 36
hard 4b2 of 36
4b0 of 36
easy 4b0 of 36
3 Stars12 of 35
2 Stars15 of 35
1 Star8 of 35
0 Stars0 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 216 (0.9%)
Lead84 of 216 (38.9%)
Followed51 of 216 (23.6%)
Toproped1 of 216 (0.5%)
Alt Leads60 of 216 (27.8%)
Unknown18 of 216 (8.3%)

'Climbed'89 of 216 (41.2%)
clean O/S91 of 216 (42.1%)
clean β2 of 216 (0.9%)
clean rpt28 of 216 (13.0%)
clean RP1 of 216 (0.5%)
dogged1 of 216 (0.5%)
dnf4 of 216 (1.9%)