Derbyshire > Willersley Castle Rocks >
 
Boomerang** HVS 5b

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38m. A once popular route (at HVS 5b) up a good natural line, but it is polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs then traverse right to enter the groove. Up this by sustained bridging and jamming until things ease and the vegetation starts to take over. © ROCKFAX
A fine route up a strong natural line. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs then traverse right passing old pegs - the polished crux, - to enter the hidden groove. Up this by pleasantly sustained bridging and jamming until things ease. Pegs still in place but poor (Sept 10)
FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt (3 pts) 1960
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Robb Bert - 17/May/14

Too slippery, not sure I want to try it again.
Kirill - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

ig248 - 2nd - 15/Jun/13 with Kirill

ejected - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Esther Bott

Slippery but good fun.
Andrew Barker - 2nd - 01/Aug/11 with Tom Ramsden

Quite stiff but peg protecting crux still there. Other gear also available
Budge - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Doug Hobbs

bigdrew - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/10 with Sam Dixon

bullwinkle - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with John

Harder than Lime street! so slippy needed tension
gordonday - Lead β - 21/Apr/10 with clive

holters - 2010

doughobbs - 2nd - 09/Sep/09 with David Burgess, Dave Valentine-Hagart

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/09

miastacey - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Bob Smith

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/09

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Unseconded, very dirty.
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Stephen

hard route i'd say more like e1
pep - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/03

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 2003 with charles

Polished and delicate on the traverse - quite scary (but good). Take small to medium cams to protect the travers
nickdonohue - Lead - 2002 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Hard!
cem - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00 with Graham Dolman

philb - 2nd - 2000

Scary crux
EagerAndy - Solo rpt - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/May/97 with jim

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 07/May/95 with Richard Bradbury

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/93

hard - pegs were crap & bent
Backinthegame - 2nd - Jun/93 with Mark Atkinson

nickcanute - Lead - 1993

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - Apr/92

ChrisJD - Lead - 12/Oct/91

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/88

RichardMc - Lead - 04/Oct/86 with Dave Langmead

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/86

sadams - Lead - 05/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

Nigel Bond - Lead - 14/Sep/85 with Martin Crosby

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/84

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/84

Ian Clare - 1984

TonyF - 1983

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/81

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/81

Ian Clare - 1981

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Oct/80

babymoac - 2nd - 01/Aug/80 with MTW

mikej - 2nd - 15/May/76 with Mike Byles

mikej - AltLd dnf - 13/May/74 with Geoff Williams

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 46
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E114 of 18
hard HVS3 of 18
HVS1 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard VS0 of 18
VS0 of 18
easy VS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c2 of 15
hard 5b9 of 15
5b4 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 13
2 Stars5 of 13
1 Star5 of 13
0 Stars2 of 13
Bag of .....1 of 13
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 55 (1.8%)
Lead29 of 55 (52.7%)
Followed15 of 55 (27.3%)
Alt Leads1 of 55 (1.8%)
Unknown9 of 55 (16.4%)

'Climbed'31 of 55 (56.4%)
clean O/S17 of 55 (30.9%)
clean β2 of 55 (3.6%)
clean rpt1 of 55 (1.8%)
dogged1 of 55 (1.8%)
dnf3 of 55 (5.5%)