Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
A once popular route (at HVS) up a good natural line, now polished and the old pegs are terrible. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs. Traverse right to enter the groove, continuing by sustained bridging and jamming until things ease. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fine route up a strong natural line. Climb the pocketed wall to the overhangs then traverse right passing old pegs - the polished crux, - to enter the hidden groove. Up this by pleasantly sustained bridging and jamming until things ease. Pegs still in place but poor (Sept 10)
FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt (3 pts) 1960.
Ticklists
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , After work/Peak ticklist 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Richard 261 | 13 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Never mind sticky rubber, you need ice skates for this one. Nasty! Nasty! Nasty! Don't do it. I couldn't second it, so I went and led God (E1) instead. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Never mind sticky rubber, you need ice skates for this one. Nasty! Nasty! Nasty! Don't do it. I couldn't second it, so I went and led God (E1) instead. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 25 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Jon entirely - led this at the weekend and the traverse is quite hairy for both lead and second. You can see your face in those footholds!! The top is a bit loose and vegetated to boot. Altogether overrated. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with Jon entirely - led this at the weekend and the traverse is quite hairy for both lead and second. You can see your face in those footholds!! The top is a bit loose and vegetated to boot. Altogether overrated. |
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| Jonny2vests | 16 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stiff, polished & now quite bold. The peg protecting the crux is gone and the one before is seriously bent after some previous adventure and the one after is also not great but with a good nut next to it. I've done many easier E1 5c's - needs upgrading. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Stiff, polished & now quite bold. The peg protecting the crux is gone and the one before is seriously bent after some previous adventure and the one after is also not great but with a good nut next to it. I've done many easier E1 5c's - needs upgrading. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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Moyer's Buttress
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)