Rockfax Description
A cruxy route with interesting moves on good rock. Start just right of a small spike, about 4 metres left of the more obvious ramp-line of Kaisergebirge Wall. Follow a shallow groove past a spike to reach Kaisergebirge Wall. Climb this up and left to a sloping ledge by a thin vertical crack. Arrange gear in the crack and move up and left to where a cruxy traverse rightwards gains the top of the crack and a hidden hold. Follow the easier ramp/flake-line leading diagonally up and right to a ledge and belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A short but interesting wall. Start at a small spike left of Kaisergerbirge Wall.
Climb the shallow groove right of the spike to join the Kaisergebirge Wall traverse. From the sloping platform climb up bearing slightly left until a difficult move right to a sharp hidden hold enables the obvious traverse line to be followed up right to easy ground. Ascend to Lords. (p 89 Llanberis Climber's Club guide 2009)

H I Banner, J O'Neil, R Beesly 02/Aug/1958

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Pimwuh 30/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep Lead
Hidden 27/Sep Lead O/S
greglad 27/Sep -
Davesmith1981 08/Sep 2nd
with Si Lake
Hidden 31/Aug Lead O/S
Matadoors 31/Aug 2nd
spragglerocks 30/Aug 2nd O/S
David Kay 30/Aug Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 16/Aug 2nd O/S
tim newton 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug Lead dog
PaulTanton 08/Aug 2nd rpt
with Kevin Stephens
Sardien 30/Jul Lead O/S

Hard move at the start! The crack crux isn't that bad when you go for it, I took longer than I intended though. The abpoint at the top is starting to show signs of decay (outer of the rope nearly through at the maillon point)

with Marija
James Oakes 25/Jul Lead O/S
Fragmod 25/Jul 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun -
Matthew Ferrier 15/Jun Lead O/S


Teappleby 15/Jun 2nd

Didn't really feel like 5b, hard move.

cem 13/Jun Lead O/S
Kirill 13/Jun 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade.

Hardcore Pat 08/Jun Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
NickJH 07/Jun Lead rpt
with LiamG
jon22 07/Jun Lead
with Dave Holland
guy757 24/Apr -
JamesWilliams 10/Apr Lead O/S

lovely climbing up the lower groove. the step right is bloody hard don't hang around too long either!

with beckyjg
sgl 10/Apr 2nd rpt
with Phil, Bart
Hidden 10/Apr 2nd
beckyjg 10/Apr 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr Lead rpt
Derek Ryden 09/Apr 2nd rpt
with Mike Pycroft
jezb1 08/Apr Lead

Rpt. Not sure if it should be E1, but it's not far off. Harder than Kaiserberge

Hidden 08/Apr Lead
Brannock 06/Apr 2nd
Luke Brooks ?/Apr Lead O/S
Stroppy 22/Mar Lead O/S

Sort of semi-soloed, semi self belayed up this to retrieve ropes (don't ask). Taking faff to new extremes.

Martin Bagshaw 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Luke Green
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
Andrew Sloan 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Climbed this several years ago. Awkward little crux sequence.

with Chris Gooder
steveboote 07/Sep/14 Lead

With 'hidden'

Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with David
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
rbruce 17/Jun/14 2nd
with Derek Miller
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
wynaptomos 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
khalidq 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dan Vaj 03/Jun/14 Lead
with Khalid
andycash 29/May/14 2nd dog
with Ash
Ash Sayers 29/May/14 Lead O/S
JulesV 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
fennerz 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ed and Adam
shed_hed 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Cruxy but alright.

dswansonlow 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S

One hard section with good gear.

Chris Manasseh 15/Mar/14 2nd
with Mike Buddle
Hidden ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 2nd
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Lenny 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Vun
jon22 01/Sep/13 Lead
with manxclare, tony ball
manxclare 01/Sep/13 2nd
with jon22
mop449 ?/Sep/13 2nd β
Colin Scotchford 31/Aug/13 Lead
redjerry 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 29/Aug/13 -
jezb1 27/Aug/13 Lead

Really good pitch of climbing. Good fun and good gear.

Curly Rich 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with GMC Tris
metal arms 23/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Yes I'd agree with E1

guy757 01/Jul/13 -
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead
Chris Wright 25/May/13 Lead
Duncan Campbell 02/May/13 2nd

One tricky section.

wi11 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Gwen L
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ollie B 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

one stiff move.

with T.Ripley
Dan724 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Dan
djones66 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Hard for the grade (I'd give it E1), but well-protected where it needs to be. The crux is a fine but powerful (at this grade) sequence.

with Stve mc D
mattyork2 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
jiles 22/Jul/12 2nd RP
with Alex Winter
Alex Winter 22/Jul/12 Lead β

Led after Jake lowered from the crux. Nice and cruxy.

Gerallt Owain 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Danjones 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Second attempt at lead, and failed on crux again! Ok with rope above! Hard for grade!

with Gerallt
kdalzell 25/Jun/12 2nd
willoates 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Iona
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Danjones 29/May/12 2nd rpt

Attempted lead but got too pumped, lowered off and seconded clean. Steep hard crux, but good gear where needed!

with dan ely
Cardi 02/May/12 Lead O/S

Hard crux!

with Matt K
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2012 -
Noodles 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Felt like hard 5b

with Andy Mcque
Tom Cox 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
sam820 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Marianne
guy757 17/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Wyn Bach 01/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Fell off about 3m off the ground (it was drizzling), got back and reached crux then didn't commit to move. I'll have to go back and try again.

with Ched
Sophie Nunn 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Pete S
wynaptomos 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

found it scary trusting blindly placed gear when about to do the crux, luckily no need to test it!

with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Matthew Robinson 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Nick
theotherpetehill 03/Jun/11 2nd
chrisallan 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
benchwarmer 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Justina
marcduhig 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Andrew
al123 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with terry
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 19/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Uber Mike
Sophie Nunn 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Floris
crag_monster ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave Brown
Alex Mason ?/Apr/11 2nd β

felt quite reachy, but tom is tall so maybe its just because i tried to follow hi actions.

with Tom Martin
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
DavidR 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gforce 14/Aug/10 2nd
with Kath
david morse 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with andy psyche
Cowflinger 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Pete Lewis
Hidden 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
adamscottthomas 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S


Chris Wright 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Dave Reeve 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
tigertim 04/Jun/10 2nd
with Tony Payne
Ows ?/Jun/10 Lead
HIGHTOWER 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing, but due to me useing the wrong gear at the wrong time I ended up pretty run out.

with Dave Gleave
bigbobbyking 15/May/10 Lead O/S

run out bit in the middle freaked me out a bit. Took a couple of looks at the crux before finally committing.

with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15/May/10 2nd O/S
with Robert King
Rich Kirby 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Kirby
Sam W 03/May/10 2nd
with Richard
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Crux felt hard for 5b.

with Robin Macintosh
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with pete topham
JCB42 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant Route!

with andy cooper
mr mills ??/2010 -
with paul simkiss
Hidden ??/2010 -
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 -
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
centurion05 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
Dave Rumney 18/Oct/09 Lead
with Paul Drew
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
brian watson 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Carly 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
chris sm 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Em66 25/May/09 2nd
with Mat
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd
frost 12/May/09 Lead
with D Almond
Dave Almond 12/May/09 AltLd
hervenuttall ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Sam Farnsworth
dan gibson 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with chris
Hidden 05/Apr/09 -
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Lloyders ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Paddy, Dave L
ritchierich 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S

It's says difficult crux in guide book,AND there not kidding!

Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
nai 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Tim
tlr 13/Jul/08 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
Wilbur 18/May/08 Lead O/S

fairly savage crux. suspected as much prior to setting off given we were at the grochan!

with Caine
Abi Chard 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
ian caton ??/2008 2nd
with Abi
barni ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Gareth_Thomas 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 04/Sep/07 Lead
with Dad/Phil
JPGR 28/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Richard Horn 26/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
Siderunner 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Nice route, well protected where it matters.

with Ian Rickerby
Chris the Tall 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Two 5b sections with a good rest in between - top section was steeper than it looked - a bit gripping

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Clucky 10/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/04 Lead O/S
Roget ??/2004 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 18/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 16/Mar/03 Lead
Hidden 03/May/99 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/May/98 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
rob.grafton 12/Apr/97 AltLd
with Bruce
GuyM ??/1996 -
Pete_Frost 14/Jun/94 Lead rpt
Steve Crowe 04/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with KM
uphillnow 30/Apr/93 -
Hidden 31/Mar/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
Andy Say 14/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/92 2nd
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/91 Lead
Ched ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 19/Jun/90 2nd
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 2nd
with neil willets
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead
michael burrows 07/May/90 Lead rpt
with brian jones
NickJH ?/May/90 2nd
with P Carter
Hidden ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 18/Jul/89 2nd

David led.

with Rupert Wyard, David
Hidden 04/Jun/87 2nd
Nick Biven 19/Oct/86 2nd
Robmwatt ??/1985 -
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Aug/83 Lead
with John Horn
RichardMc 10/Oct/82 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jul/81 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 24/Mar/81 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 -
steve L 26/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with John Willy
RichardMc 27/Aug/77 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Mike Owen 07/Jul/77 -
with Chris ?
Mark Kemball 17/Apr/76 Lead
with Steve Marriott
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/76 AltLd O/S
with Martin Smith
Ian Jones ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Mike Newton
mikej 10/Sep/75 Lead
with Mike Byles
Bolt Phobia 21/Jun/75 Lead
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Hidden 26/Sep/71 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 09/Aug/70 2nd
with Tim James
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JonnySchofield, Hidden, ms26g10, rbharries, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, willotheward, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set