150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 160m, 3 hours. Most teams climb the route in mountaineering boots and the climbing lends itself more to foot jamming stiff soled boots than to smearing in rock shoes. The first pitch will feel tricky though if it is near your 'big-boot' limit.
Approach - Approach from either the Albert Premier or Cabane du Trients. From the Albert Premier, gain the Glacier du Tour and climb up and over the FenÍtre du Pissoir to reach the routes in 2 - 2.5 hours. From the Cabane du Trient, head southwest across the Trient Plateau and then contour around at 3150m until directly under the route in around 1.5 hours. Scramble up broken rocks to reach the first pitch, which begins at a distinctive V-notch.
1) 5a, 20m. Follow the furthest left crack above the V-notch for 8m, passing some pegs on the way, to a bolt at the foot of a corner. Ignore the temptation to clip the bolt (you'll get rope drag if you do) and make a 4m rightwards traverse onto a steep slab, passing two pegs on the way. At the second peg, go directly up to reach a bolt belay at the top of the corner that housed the bolt. The corner itself can be climbed at 5c.
2) 4b, 40m. Step down 2m and traverse right across a break for 10m to reach a corner. Climb the corner to a jammed block and then move right up a short crack and slab above to rejoin the ridge crest 5m before a steep tower.
3) 4a, 20m. Go to the foot of the tower then make a 5m downclimb on the Trient side of the ridge to reach a ledge system. Follow this rightwards to the foot of a deep chimney.
4) 5a, 30m. Climb the golden flakes to the right of the chimney until they end and then step left into the depths! Muster any style you can and thrutch your way over two chockstones to reach a slightly awkward belay on a spike with some very poor old tat around it.
5) 4b, 25m. Follow the cracked ridge to the right of the chimney until it levels out. Traverse right around a spike and belay at the foot of a steep cracked wall, directly below the summit.
6) 4c, 25m. Climb the cracked wall on the left to reach a large ledge. Ignore the deep, block-filled chimney above and step left to climb the right-slanting corner via some thrutchy, thuggish moves. Finish up a final easy chimney and belay on one of the many good spikes that make up the summit block.
Descent - Scramble down a couple of metres towards the Col Purtscheller to reach a bolted belay. Abseil in the direction of the col to reach another bolted anchor after 25m. A second abseil from here takes you to easy scrambling ground and it is possible to downclimb back to the glacier from here. There is also a series of anchors about 5m above the bergschrund so a third abseil is possible and might be a good idea in dry conditions when the glacier looks open. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5a obl, 5b free. Description in English on camptocamp: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54077/en/aiguille-purtscheller-s-ridge-classical

R. Aubert, R. Dittert, F. Marullaz 16/May/1943


ClimberDateStyle
RM199 23/Jun AltLd O/S

About HVS 5a. Dodgy flakes on layback pitch! Can be abbed on a single 60m

guy127917 03/Sep/15 AltLd
Colin Scotchford 28/Jul/15 AltLd
joeallen28 21/Jul/15 AltLd

Cracking route. Had an epic though and fell whilst leading chimney pitch, smashing my face open! Brilliant top out and spectacular views. Glacier dodgy in the afternoon though.

jonesieboy 21/Jul/15 -
Hidden 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S
reima 23/Jul/14 -
with Niamh
bullwinkle 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon
jcw ??/2013 -
rockstoned 02/Aug/12 AltLd

There's a handful of bolts on this route on the some of the blankest sections. Abseil stations equipped from the summit for both sides of the mountain, finding them is a little tricky. Cut my hand on first pitch, even after applying first aid I proceeded to decorate the entire route with red!

with Pierre
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/12 -

Really should have taken the rock shoes - would have made it so much easier!

with Geoff Thomas
bigbobbyking 24/Jun/12 AltLd

Cold start! Couldn't feel my hands and used a bit of French free on the crux. Warmed up once we were in the sun and out of the wind. Only one bolt on the route which makes a nice change.

with Dan Guest
neal 04/Aug/98 AltLd

From tent on glacier

Laramadness 18/Jul/96 -
with Steve Munton
auld al ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
buffalo606, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
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