|518m, 7 pitches. Geriatric does not reach the summit of EEOR and climbs the shorter south end of the east face. It was the first route established on the south end of the east face in 1975 by Greenwood and Jones. Its 6th pitch (crux) offers one of the more spectacular moves (for moderate grades) on EEOR. Although a trad route, Geriatric intersects, on several occasions, one of the more popular multi-pitch sport routes in or around Canmore, True Grit, 5.10c. At times the bolts can be confusing and tempting.
1st Pitch- 40m- 5.7/ Traverse out to the small, but apparent, pinnacle to the right and ascend the left side via a crack that is suspect to protect. I believe I got one piece in that I felt confident about. Once at the top of this feature, continue up a groove until you notice a nasty traverse right past several pitons to a two bolt belay on a small ledge. On the way over you will have to make one down climbing move. If you are going to climb in the Canadian Rockies, you will be subject to such traverses on an all too frequent basis.
2nd Pitch- 35m- 5.7/ Climb up and right to gain a corner/ramp that leads back left. Pass at least one piton and aim for a belay where it steepens below a corner at a bolt/piton.
3rd Pitch- 35m- 5.8/ A pleasant corner pitch straight above to a large ledge on the left. Fun and easy to protect including a piton down low. Never a crux move. Move out left onto the ledge at the top, past a chain station and over to a pillar in front of a tree and set up belay at two bolts here. A good place for lunch.
4th Pitch- 40m- 5.7/ This pitch is somewhat run out on slab for the last 20 meters. Ascend the pillar any way you want, the left side goes easy, but loose and hard to protect. The right side has some pitons and is a little stiffer. Once on top of the pillar, try not to get too confused with bolts as you cross the sport route known as Parallel Dreams. Split the bolts above and continue on unprotected slab angling right past one station (True Gritís 3rd) and continue right for the next two bolt belay.
5th Pitch- 20m- 5.7/ This is the most challenging 5.7 pitch of the day, so I would not advise combining it with the 4th pitch. Climb slabs right above the belay to a corner and follow this corner left to a bolt belay below another, much steeper corner with a definitive slab to your upper right.. You are intersecting the 4th belay of True Grit.
6th Pitch- 35m- 5.8/ AhÖ.another fun traverse! Definitely the crux pitch and move of the day. Rise up on good climbing in the corner past two pitons to a bolt placed out onto the slab (5 meters). Clip the bolt and then down climb at a rightward angle onto minimal features of the slab until you can cross the slab, left to right, with little in the way of hands to a small chimney/corner/groove at the north end. As you balance yourself on pure slab, make a gutsy move for textured limestone into the grove. Step over into the groove and take a breather. Avoid clipping the bolt out on your right (with the route Econoline) , if you do, the rope drag will be too severe. Instead climb up and sink a .75 Camelot into the best rock you can find. Then climb precarious ground up and over onto a ledge with a piton at your feet when you stand up. Continue up right over easy ground, with easy protection (#4 and #1 Camelots) for a two bolt belay on a wall with a small ledge below it.
7th Pitch- 40m- 5.6/ Climb straight up and right and then start angling back left past a piton towards a large ledge. Gain the ledge and move out left climbing up and over the large yellow block and make a station in the cracks on the other side to bring up the second. Your rappel station is down to your right on a huge flat ledge.
Greenwood and Jones 1975
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Photo: View from top of final pitch (7th) at rappell station © Altai Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Jun/12
Hidden - 2nd β - 17/Jun/12