250m.

Rockfax Description
III, 220m. Once an undocumented line that only the locals knew about, Vent du Dragon has become something of a classic and is probably the most climbed route on this face since it appeared in Philippe Batoux's beautiful Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes book. Start in the snow bay below an open, low-angled snow/mixed ramp.
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the ramp easily on snowy mixed ground and cross onto the right before coming back left where it widens. Stay on the left and climb a short mixed step to reach a bolt and some slings around a block.
2) 3+, 40m. Continue with slightly more difficulty (but still on steady ground) up a right-leaning gully which leads to a large slab. Carry on rightwards past the foot of the slab and 5m further up to reach a peg and bolt belay.
3) 5, 55m. Climb the stunning icy runnel to the right of the slab to where it is capped by a blocky overhang. Step left and turn the overhang on the left (crux) before continuing up the right-leaning icy runnel above. Climb this for 15m to a snowy col and a bolt/peg belay.
4) 5, 50m. Step right from the belay and make a couple of mixed moves to gain the icy runnel above. Climb this and then make a mantelshelf move left into another runnel. Follow this to it's top and then step left into and through a cave and some tenuous feeling mixed moves to a bolt belay. Don't be tempted out rightwards by the snowy gully near the top of this pitch, it is much harder than it looks...
5) 2, 15m. Move left around the corner and climb the snow slope to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gully line just left of Perroux profit gully on the NW face, starting as for that route. Great climbing with some short tricky mixed sections to M5+

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
Rob Pitt 28/Jun AltLd O/S

Mint

with Miles
Petarghh 21/Jun AltLd O/S
with nv
Hidden 21/Jun AltLd O/S
J_Trottet 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Possibly some tough conditions at the cruxes (no reference to compare that to though). Ice is fine and climbs well. Aerated in bits so not always good for screws. Gully for ab in is banked out so hard to find some of the in situ points.

Brian Pollock 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Tres bon. Probably VI 6 on the day. Big ice plug on the crux added some spice.

Richard Kendrick 07/Mar AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/15 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 14/Jun/15 2nd
with Tim Oliver
C Mclean 29/Apr/15 AltLd
with Harry Mcghie
Misha 08/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Peter
walts4 08/Apr/15 AltLd
with Misha
Hidden 23/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
engelsk_chica 12/Mar/15 2nd β

Climbed with Seb, very cold but great fun!

Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
Suzana 28/Oct/14 AltLd β

Led both Cruxes

with Agnieszka Wilkon
Dan0Me 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Excellent condition. Really fun route, made it to the lift with 10mins to spare

with James S, Geoff P
James S 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing weather and great conditions made for a top day out. The squeeze under the roof felt like being back in Scotland!

with geoff, dan
Hidden 18/Oct/14 AltLd
Dave Searle 15/Oct/14 AltLd
with Stu Mcaleese
ndraper1 07/Oct/14 -

perfect conditions. Made it to the lift with 90 seconds to spare!

Steve Wakeford 06/Oct/14 AltLd

Electrocuted my crampons going off the midi bridge, thank god for rubber soles. Crackin day out. Excellent condition. Busy day on the face and rappels, made it back to last bin with 1 min to spare. That's twice in a week.

with Dan Commander, Nick Draper
jimmatthews 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Good condition. Hilarious moves in and around the roof on 3rd pitch.

Hidden 05/Oct/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
Ewan Russell 03/Jul/14 Lead

Amazing pitches 3 and 4. Hardest thing I have tried to lead. Not done with style. Spent 40 minutes tring to squeeze through squeeze hole. There was ice on crux.

with Kelly, Luke, Tom Nichols
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Lead first two pitches. Great route!!

with Ewan Russel, Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill
simon_D 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good ice and pro on the rock, crux hqd no ice on the slab so we went straight over at about M4+...comedy abseil off the midi bridge!

with Edvin
alpinestar_no1 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Super nice route, we had great conditions on it. We where delayed on the absail in as a heli was dropping off material on the bridge. But we just made the last bin down after all. Great day out!

with Jakob Fisker
ndraper1 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

A wriggly route. We got stuck behind a spanish team taking muchos seista's all the way up which slowed our progress massively. What ice is there is good, but otherwise dry and sugary snow. Mainly used rock pro(large cams useful)only placed about 3/4 screws on whole route. Good fun in a great position.

chapmand 01/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
vegarye 30/Mar/14 -
darcan 30/Mar/14 AltLd
with Vegarye
Alasdair Fulton 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Still enough ice, fairly straightforward so not M5, maybe M4/m4+?

Ross Barnes 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Ally
Hidden 19/Feb/14 AltLd
GraMc 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, mabey about scottish V/VIish. Had to be in work at 4pm, so left john and rory at the top of the route and soloed the rest of the cosmiques as fast as possible. The crux wall of cosmiques was surpisingly difficult in winter

with irish john, rory
niallsash ?/Jan/14 -
QuentinSu ?/Nov/13 -
machars 24/Oct/13 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 09/Oct/13 AltLd
guy757 07/Oct/13 -
danJBA 30/Sep/13 AltLd
Kayan 30/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 -
Hidden 02/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Apr/09 -
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Morrell, Liam Watson, Remyveness, callumbtaylor, PLM, paulmck, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexm198, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, MSchobitz, punj, Timothy Miller, benclimbing, Hidden, Hidden, Col Kingshott, Hidden
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