Access Banned
Sadly, despite almost 120 years of continuous use by climbers, Rainster Rocks are the scene of a complete access ban. THE WEST AND EAST HILLS ARE EACH UNDER DIFFERENT OWNERSHIP, AND CURRENTLY NEITHER OWNER WISHES THE ROCKS TO BE USED FOR CLIMBING. There is however a public right of way to the East Hill, and so you are at liberty to visit the place. Sadly, the permitted path does not cross over the col to the West Hill, so taking a peek at that is therefore a more delicate matter - see ‘Approach’, above. If minded to explore, you should keep a low profile, leave no litter, follow footpaths, do not damage fences and walls, and do not frighten stock (this is a sheep farming area, with rearing sheds nearby, and sheep frequent all parts of the crag - LEAVE YOUR DOG AT HOME). Moody cattle are also on occasion pastured in surrounding fields - take care!
Rockfax Description
Traverse the pocketed wall rightwards below the roof to the arete. Pull over a bugle and climb the juggy wall on the left. © Rockfax
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Gabriel
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)