Rockfax Description
II, 225m. A popular route with some amenable climbing amongst impressive scenery as well as a stunning final pitch. The route begins at a bolt with some tat. In late summer when the glacier is thin and dry, it may be necessary to climb the short snow slope to the right and then traverse into the route.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the crack on the left of the slab and then step up left onto a slab and the belay.
2) 4c, 30m. Follow the slab, drifting left to belay 12m left of a deep chimney.
3) 5c, 35m. Continue up the slab for 5m, pass through a small overlap and move right to climb a steep crack. The belay is on the left at the top of this.
4) 4c, 30m. Broken slabs lead relatively easily to the bottom right end of a gully.
5) 10m. Scramble easily up the gully to a belay underneath a golden slab with a right-leaning corner-crack.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner-crack (superb) to a ledge below and right of a wide crack.
7) 5b, 25m. Follow the wide crack via some excellent thrutching to a belay beneath a stunning clean sweep of white rock.
8) 4c, 20m. Move right and climb the slabby crack to a stance below a small overhang.
9) 5c, 25m. Follow the flake to the overhang and turn this on the right. Continue up on good holds in an outrageous position to the summit.
Descent - Abseil the route on bolted belays. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
250m 9 pitches


ClimberDateStyle
piken 21/Jul/15 -
Hidden 28/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 -
jonleighton 07/Aug/14 -
Hidden 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
saaruli 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Pete Houghton 07/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

Blocked by snow on the bigger ledges.

guy757 27/Aug/13 -
with Vic
Ben Briggs 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Luca
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
davebrox 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/12 2nd dnf
Wils 07/Jul/12 Lead
mcaterina ?/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/11 -
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set