Rockfax Description
II, 225m. A popular route with some amenable climbing amongst impressive scenery as well as a stunning final pitch. The route begins at a bolt with some tat. In late summer when the glacier is thin and dry, it may be necessary to climb the short snow slope to the right and then traverse into the route.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb the crack on the left of the slab and then step up left onto a slab and the belay.
2) 4c, 30m. Follow the slab, drifting left to belay 12m left of a deep chimney.
3) 5c, 35m. Continue up the slab for 5m, pass through a small overlap and move right to climb a steep crack. The belay is on the left at the top of this.
4) 4c, 30m. Broken slabs lead relatively easily to the bottom right end of a gully.
5) 10m. Scramble easily up the gully to a belay underneath a golden slab with a right-leaning corner-crack.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner-crack (superb) to a ledge below and right of a wide crack.
7) 5b, 25m. Follow the wide crack via some excellent thrutching to a belay beneath a stunning clean sweep of white rock.
8) 4c, 20m. Move right and climb the slabby crack to a stance below a small overhang.
9) 5c, 25m. Follow the flake to the overhang and turn this on the right. Continue up on good holds in an outrageous position to the summit.
Descent - Abseil the route on bolted belays. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
250m 9 pitches

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Big Ideas

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