|350m, 10 pitches. Probably the least repeated of the classic routes at Piz Ciavazes. The rock is predominantly solid and the route is reasonably well equipped.|
Start below the three chimney flakes 10m left of the gully.
1) IV, 40m. Climb any of the three flakes with equal difficulty, trending left until they join to form a chimney. Climb the chimney, branching right on a yellow flake, then move back into the chimney to reach a grassy ledge. Step right to the stance.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb a slab direct then move left on vegetated rock before climbing direct to a stance below a yellow niche.
3) III, 35m. Move right out of the niche and climb chossy ground to a clearing and a bolted stance.
4) III+, 30m. Climb direct then move left to a small pillar. Climb this then meander up easy ground to vegetated ledge. Follow this right to a good grassy stance.
5) IV, 30m. Move back left for a few metres then climb direct towards a niche. Climb this direct then move more easily right, past a series of large yellow overhangs on the left.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb a fantastic grey slab right then back left to a stance on a ledge.
7) VI, 20m. Traverse 5m left then climb the right side of a yellow corner. Traverse right a few metres below the roof then move up to an uncomfortable stance.
8) VI+, 10m. Move up to the roof then traverse below it on good holds. At the right edge, climb direct to a bolted belay in a niche.
9) VII-, 40m. Traverse right and enter a steep corner. Climb this - sustained but with plenty of pro - and exit right, ignoring the direct continuation corner.
10) IV, 25m. Climb a grey slab direct and right then follow a ramp left to enter the long corner.
11) V+, 45m. Continue up the corner until a natural break, and exit left here to a ledge (intermediate belay possible). Step left and climb another corner, and follow this left to the ledge. © ROCKFAX
Pellegrinon, Bohnel 1964
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