|380m, 12 pitches. A route often confused with Spigolo Giallo (Yellow Edge), indeed many climbers get lost as they come around to the right-hand side of the arete on Spigolo Giallo and end up in the chimneys of Del Vecchio-Zadeo. This is a harder climb than its more famous neighbour and like the Egger route provides a good alternative when Spigolo Giallo is crowded. The rock is fairly solid and there is a good mix of exposure and more traditional overhanging chimneys. |
Start on the ledge below the more prominent ledge which runs right from the start of Spigolo Giallo. Traverse the lower ledge right to a spike belay below a yellow-grey wall.
1) V, 50m. Climb the wall above, move slightly left and continue to below a large roof. Move right beneath this to reach a good belay.
2) IV, 40m. Climb direct up darker rock then move back left to a comfortable stance.
3) III, 50m. Climb diagonally left on easier grey rock.
4) III, 40m. Continue up the grey rock following a series of cracks to the right.
5) III, 40m. Continue in the same line up grey rock.
6) III+, 30m. Continue more direct but in the same line to reach the more vertical yellow-grey wall above.
7) VI, 45m. Climb the vertical wall above on good rock to a belay below a small corner, next to a detached pillar on the right.
8) VI+, 30m. Climb the corner and pull through the roof above and continue direct to a precarious belay below the next roof.
9) VI+, 35m, Move left with difficulty below the roof, then climb direct up a crack to the left of the roof. Exit right onto a good ledge.
10) V, 25m. Climb direct up vertical grey rock to a good stance.
11) V, 40m. Climb the right-hand of the two parallel cracks, continuing direct on solid grey-yellow rock to a stance below a chimney.
12) IV, 50m. Climb the chimney and exit left to scramble easily to the subsidiary summit. © ROCKFAX
Another great line that doesn't receive as many repeats as it should due to been located so close to Comici's Yellow Edge. All in all it is slightly harder and it a great alternative if Yellow Edge is particularly busy.
Del Vecchio, Zadeo 05/Aug/1947
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