45m, 2 pitches.
Powerful and intimidating climbing, taking the obvious left trending flake/feature in the roof above White Ghyll Chimney.
1 15m. As for pitch 1 of White Ghyll Chimney. Block belay on ledge.
2 35m. (6c). Follow the left wall of White Ghyll Chimney until beneath an open groove providing direct access to the roof. Climb this groove and the dubious flake “scab” with increasing trepidation, to gain the base of the roof proper (old blade peg). Herculean efforts may bring the "fang" within reach (old blade peg), followed by a hard sequence to reach a good hold on the rib above. Easier climbing leads up the rib to the base of a technical hanging groove, finish up this.
All gear placed on the lead.
1 15m. As for pitch 1 of White Ghyll Chimney. Block belay on ledge.
2 35m. (6c). Follow the left wall of White Ghyll Chimney until beneath an open groove providing direct access to the roof. Climb this groove and the dubious flake “scab” with increasing trepidation, to gain the base of the roof proper (old blade peg). Herculean efforts may bring the "fang" within reach (old blade peg), followed by a hard sequence to reach a good hold on the rib above. Easier climbing leads up the rib to the base of a technical hanging groove, finish up this.
All gear placed on the lead.
Craig Matheson, Rob Matheson 21/Jul/2012.
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Route of Interest
Another Lonely Day
Grade: E8 6c ***
(Scafell East Buttress)