Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
Once this was the big challenge of Chee Dale but the resulting free version is not quite the mega-route that was hoped for. Apart from the section crossing the roof, it is all straightforward. It is around 7c as a sport route. The use of aid on the roof section offers the potential of an exciting trip up one of the Peak's finest features at an amenable grade (VS/A1 ).
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the pod-shaped groove to a ledge.
2) 6c, 10m. Climb up to the roof and cross this past a desperate move (long reach) at the lip to an exposed stance just above.
3) 4c, 10/20m. Plod up the groove above to the grass terrace. An extra few metres can be added by climbing the groove in the final tower if desired. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Once this was the big challenge of Chee Dale but the resulting free version is not quite the mega-route that was hoped for. Apart from the section crossing the roof, it is all straightforward. Pitch 2 relies on fixed gear (threads & bolts) at around 7c as a sport route. The use of aid on the roof section offers the potential of an exciting trip up one of the Peak's finest features at an amenable grade (VS and A1 ).
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the pod-shaped groove to a ledge.
2) 7c (sport), 10m. Climb up to the roof and cross this past a desperate move (long reach) at the lip to an exposed stance just above.
3) 4c, 10/20m. Plod up the groove above to the grass terrace. A finish can be made up the groove in the final tower if required.
FA. G.West, B.Roberts 17.9.60. FFA. N.Foster 26.6.83. Partly retro-bolted in 2011..
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Chee Dale Upper)