Rockfax Description
One for the hard boys and girls.
1) 5a, 28m. As for Bovero.
2) 5c, 15m. From the right-hand end of the ledge, climb a groove to an awkward stance.
3) 6b, 15m. The bulging wall above leads past a peg to a groove and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Ryan Parle 23/Aug 2nd O/S

climbed 2nd & 3rd pitch as 1, we intended to climb Oxine, but somehow took the wrong line after the 1st pitch and ended up finishing on this route. it was pretty sketchy and well above our normal grade!

with Neil
shed_hed 22/Jun Lead dnf

P1 only. Very bold climbing above the traverse line, with a hard move way above anything that resembles good gear. Ledge at the top of P1 is very grassy and makes for a sketchy feeling topout above poor gear. Enjoyed the climbing and the challenge of trying to protect it, although I don't think I'd be going back in a hurry! Think Rafe was a bit exhausted from Ferdinand and it was starting to spit so abbed off. Second pitch looks covered in lichen and bold.

UncleMephisto 22/Jun 2nd dnf
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Ed Booth 24/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Angus led pitch 1+2 and I started up 3 but after clipping the first peg I was pretty sure it would not hold a fall and I couldn't back it up so soloed up Torero and flicked ropes round for Angus to second Poacher.

anguskille 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1+2, 3rd 2nd. I wouldn't recommend it. first pitch had a very sketchy mantle onto a sloping grassy shelf with only a ledge below to catch you, the second pitch was hard to find under all the lichen and the belay was just a massive bird's nest, third pitch technical but not in an interesting way, first peg is no good! sort of fun despite this, not the kind of thing worth hurting yourself for though

jacobjlloyd 18/Jun/11 AltLd dog

Led the middle pitch, which looked at first like it was going to be quite spicy, but turned out to be ~E2 5c. FIrst pitch was bold but good climbing, and I was gutted to fall off the final crux pitch when my shoulder took offense at the mad powerful moves and decided to tweak itself. Inescapably hard pitch, properly technical and involved fierce moves, and sustained. Felt at least french 7a+ if not harder, and its not long! Stunning lead from Felix. Ignore his mention of quickdraw touching - its his way of being bashful ; )

with Felix
feilx 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and last pitch, think i cleaned the crux but i have to admit while i didn't weight it i did hesitate for a fair few seconds with my hand on a quick draw after clipping. Itís stunningly tenuous i thought i might lose my balance any second.

with Jake
Ched ??/1997 2nd
with Grant Farqhuar
nigehughes ?/May/88 2nd

Sharpy turned up late. His only route of the day which he led on sight. Can't recall if I actually touched the rock on the crux pitch!

with Graham Stamp, Nick Sharpe
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 3
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Followed
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set