Rockfax Description
A great combination of the first pitch of a VS called Oxo and the steep and thrilling top pitch of Bovine.
1) 4b, 30m. Start 10m left of the wall that touches the crag. Climb up a few metres and traverse right to a small ledge. Continue rightwards, passing a pinnacle to reach a small flat wall, pass this and gain the ledge on the right. Good belay.
2) 4c, 28m. This is what you came for. Steep, exposed climbing on holds the size of buckets. Climb the groove above the ledge for 2m, make a hard move right to huge holds and blast-off directly up the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Given 3* in the latest guide, well worth it.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

ads 10/Oct AltLd
jalqazzaz 09/Oct Lead O/S

Cool traverse with a tricky little move before you get to the belay ledge. Amazing second pitch like a steep juggy indoor wall! Partener initially lead but took a good 15m fall nearly hitting the deck! So took over and lead, fantastic climb!

static266 09/Oct 2nd
Pinguville 30/Sep 2nd O/S

great climb , p1 was easy going , tricky / awkward part on the small ledge before you get to p2 . Second pitch was awesome great exposure looks mega steep and awesome views , wasnt that pumpy and good gear ! was expecting an ordeal, infact was just fantastic !

with George
Hidden 30/Sep Lead O/S
Dell 27/Sep AltLd β

Lead P1, seconded P2. Some nerve required on P1 upper ledge. Small nuts and a 1.5 cam required. P2, short slings on spikes all the way with the odd nut. Easy ab off of tree at top.

Hidden 27/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep -
Mr Fuller 30/Aug Lead dnf

Led P1 but then could not work out the moves above the belay on P2. Absolutely stumped we abbed off the tree below the belay.

Will Mortimer 19/Aug AltLd O/S
s.thursz 19/Aug AltLd
mikkistorey 01/Aug AltLd

I lead the first pitch, Al lead the second, Olli was with us. Not as steep or exposed as I remember it. Al had trouble finding gear on the second pitch. DEscent down wet grass was HORRIBLE

mikkistorey 01/Aug AltLd

I lead the first pitch, Al lead the second, Olli was with us. Not as steep or exposed as I remember it. Al had trouble finding gear on the second pitch. DEscent down wet grass was HORRIBLE

bob johnson 19/Jul -

just love this climb

with Rich Ball
najki_2000 03/Jul 2nd β

Rucksack almost pushed me off near the top of P1 :) Great climbing on P2 though the crux move feels a bit reachy and comitting for shorties.

with Chris Rose
James Oakes 27/Jun AltLd O/S
Fragmod 27/Jun Lead
Neil Watson 21/Jun AltLd O/S

Led P1 and Aiden P2. Enjoyed the whole route but glad Aiden did P2 as it is just a tad beyond my leading capabilities

with Aidan
Stanners 19/Jun AltLd O/S

P2…after Andy finally stopped trying to climb E1 on the first pitch. Not sure I've ever been so relaxed hanging around cutting loose for the banter and soaking in the position ! truly incredible route…except for the sodding midges !!!! Was a good shout coming here getting away from the dark, cloudy pass. Even went for a swim in the lake afterwards!

with Andy G
Hidden 08/Jun AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun Lead
Andy Clarke 21/Apr AltLd O/S

Great climbing, with a thrilling swing out on P2 followed by glorious steep jug pulling. The sort of route that puts a smile on your face - about the only part of my body that wasn't knackered after 4 days taking advantage of the April heatwave! Led P2.

with Johnny
1-2-3-40 16/Apr AltLd

good gear, big reach to get arête hold on second pitch

apeman241 05/Apr 2nd dog
with Nick Harvey
Hidden ??/2015 -
Glyn 16/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Amy, Trystan
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
fizzychewitt 14/Aug/14 AltLd
with Alun, Jayne
svdie 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
tim.fairhall 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
disrail 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Dave
rgd1977 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 30/May/14 Lead

lovely big holds.

with Jacquie
Andrew Lester 27/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 -
edmitchell 17/May/14 AltLd
with pyb course
Ann S 02/May/14 2nd

Excellent route bone dry after day of rain before. One tricky move for short arses like me near start of second pitch. Had to do a monkey swing round out of the groove onto front wall.

with Skinnykin
Marti999 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Quite possibly the best vs in wales

with Debbie
edmitchell 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Started Oxo, (easy), then went up past peg on Bovine (hard!). Final pitch of Bovine. Easy, but steep.

with Mark Ellis
Matt Harmon 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

led P1

Anna duckett 09/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt H
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
rbharries 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch, cool crux

with neils EW
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
thegoatstroker 23/Sep/13 AltLd
Fred_Richard 22/Sep/13 -
with Pete
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
noah 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Slimmy
danp 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch, fantastic position.

Dan724 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, brilliant route.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
asmith37 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

What a stunning 2nd pitch. Tricky moves off the belay, but then easy climbing on massive jugs all the way.

John Roe 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Led first pitch, Jocky let the crux pitch

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Ray Sparks 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
with pete ranstead
ross brinson 20/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben Biscoe
lithos 18/May/13 AltLd

P2, brilliant and unlikely - what a pitch

with andy kitchen
daveyb 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Excellent climbing, tricky move onto the face then a sprint to the top on superb holds

Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd
dave_forti 06/May/13 Lead

One rest on gear which I am very annoyed with myself about! Apart from that a totally awesome route and superb exposure on amazing holds. One climb every climber should do.

Wyn Bach 03/May/13 2nd O/S


with Ched
Johnywilks 24/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
davidhopwood 02/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Top pitch merits it's 3 stars. Scary even to 2nd and hard work despite large hand holds. Difficult move right onto last section, very exposed.

with Jade
Lloyders 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Mint 2nd pitch...

with Paddy
Will242 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with pastep
pastep 07/Sep/12 AltLd

Led pitch 2. Completely awesome!

with Will242
jon59 16/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd
stvredmond 24/Jun/12 AltLd

led p2. not sure about the strength of the spike but amaxing climbing

myoung ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Helen
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Si
Gareth Bowen 14/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1.

with Dave Whitely
ldadams ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Nigel
Hidden 01/Jan/12 AltLd
richardr ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jandyd05 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Superb climb in gloriously sunny autumn conditions - climbed P1 in t-shirt ! P1, quite poor gear. Also went up to the 'ramp' too early and scared myself half to death with a very teetery traverse. Julie came up the correct way and found it much easier. P2 - exciting swing right out of the groove (crux) then superb steep climbing up the wall via big flakes.

Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
Blurgy319 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant!! Great weather for November, great scenery and great route

with Ginge Moore, Lee Wales
Matthew Scott-Chalmers 01/Oct/11 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch, really poor gear for a 4b managed to conceal myself to a narrow ledge/gangway which I had to gingerly crawl along with only 2 not so good placed cams protecting me from bottoming out!!! 2nd Pitch Rob lead (I'm glad) quality climbing, pumpy but good jugs! first bits got a bold swing out right with little for left foot. (leaders make sure you protect this move for your 2nd's)!!!

with Robert Evans
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd
Noodles 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, second pitch is awesome, steep but great holds

with Andy Mcque
Hidden 14/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
quarrtman1 24/Aug/11 AltLd

led first pitch

with mills
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
AJH 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Loved it - only problem being an arachnaphobic daughter who launched herself off the crag rather than face up to her fears!

with Rebecca
mr mills 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris
dan ely 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with steve
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd
martin c 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route. With Steph (trainee). Steph couldn't do crux on start of pitch 2 so had to ab down to her and lower her then ab off (left no gear). Excellent training!

Alex Mason 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Led P2. Jugsy.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Lenny 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Les
justin burgoyne ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
DOVEY 11/May/11 Lead

Supper holds!

with Loz / Maker
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
richw2k2 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Cracking route!

with Monika
frost 24/Apr/11 Solo O/S


jshields 10/Apr/11 Lead
Rob Pitt 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Helen Pitt
Duncan Campbell 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Potentially one of the best VS pitches I have done. Absolute Jug-ladder up a steep wall, with a fun swing around out of the groove.

with Chris??, Jess
peua57 06/Mar/11 Lead

harder top pitch, very exposed and steep chimney

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/10 AltLd

Stayed reasonably dry in spite of heavy showers. What a superb top pitch.

with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill
david morse 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

hidden gem

with siobhan, chris todd
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd
Conan 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Another great climb. Crux was the balancy alternative direct finish

with Phil
HIGHTOWER 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Lee Wales, Rusty
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
michael burrows 20/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with mark
JasonV 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Big lovely jugs (p2)

with Gareth
Moomin.williams 20/Jun/10 AltLd
prwalker 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Mike Doyle
Hidden 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
monsteratt 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd picth. What a jug fest!!

with Will K
Shaw Brown 06/Jun/10 Lead
with anne salisbury
Harri777 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Liz
Binder 05/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead 1st (easier) pitch. Hot and sunny!

with JT
Dizz 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

New favourite route!

Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
steve prior ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Andy C
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
Tony Little 15/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 11/May/10 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 03/May/10 2nd

wow! what a great climb - how come i've not done this before

with Rich Ball
mikelaing ?/May/10 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
will randall ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
dashitboarder 10/Apr/10 2nd
theotherpetehill 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Liam FLeming 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Jackson
Hidden 11/Aug/09 AltLd
Will Williams ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Glyn Davidson 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Ian first pitch, me second. Lovely climbing on second pitch.

Mike Goldthorp 19/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, felt awesome! Body belaying...

with Ben Alsford
climbingrev 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Great juggy, reasonably steep pitch. Fascinating rock. First couple of moves away from the belay provide a bit of interest. Great position above campsite / lake.

with Alison ?
Hidden 18/Apr/09 -
Renegade_Pony 15/Apr/09 2nd
with barni
barni 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
peter myers ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Ralph Heath
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/08 2nd
John Dale 01/Jun/08 Lead
with Erik Schaberg
Tim M 31/May/08 AltLd
with Emma
climbergg 31/May/08 AltLd
stevepotter 24/May/08 AltLd
with loic
gareth scott borthwick 20/May/08 AltLd O/S

Hedd led the first pitch, i led the second. One of the best vs's i've climbed, quite stiff for the grade.

Marcus ??/2008 -
Glyn 04/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 15/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
AngelaC 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
richw2k2 11/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

I took the better second pitch and virtually soloed it, opps!

with Johnny Martin
Hidden 19/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Hidden 15/Aug/04 AltLd
Norman_P_W 15/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 15/Jun/02 AltLd
DavidR 01/May/01 2nd O/S
with John Marston
five ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with TW
lost.arrow 17/Jul/00 -
Hidden 30/Apr/00 AltLd
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Mel
kitkat78 ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/98 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
cornishben ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
michael burrows 09/Feb/97 AltLd
with richard parry
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/95 Solo
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 06/Nov/93 AltLd
BigHairyIan 25/Oct/93 AltLd O/S

and Debs.

with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)
Hidden 03/Jul/90 2nd
alan moore ??/1990 -

Lovely setting. Great route.

Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
PaulHermes ??/1989 -
Tony Buckley ?/Apr/88 Lead
GordonHart ??/1984 Solo O/S
RichardMc 22/Oct/83 AltLd
with John Evans
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
mikej 28/Jun/78 Lead
with Tony Waite
Ian Jones ??/1977 Lead O/S
with Stewart whatsisname from the Chester Club.
Hidden ?/Aug/75 Lead
uphillnow ??/1966 Lead
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Votes cast 53
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