Oxine*** VS 4c
[Jane pulling hard on the second pitch of Oxine, 2 kb]A great combination of the first pitch of a VS called Oxo and the steep and thrilling top pitch of Bovine. 1) 4b, 30m. Start 10m left of the wall that touches the crag. Climb up a few metres and traverse right to a small ledge. Continue rightwards, passing a pinnacle to reach a small flat wall, pass this and gain the ledge on the right. Good belay. 2) 4c, 28m. This is what you came for. Steep, exposed climbing on holds the size of the Starship Entreprise. Climb the groove above the ledge for 2m, make a hard move right to huge holds and blast-off directly up the wall. © ROCKFAX
Given 3* in the latest guide, well worth it.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Photo: Jane pulling hard on the second pitch of Oxine © Chris Horobin

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 195 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

Glyn - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Amy, Trystan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Aug/14

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 14/Aug/14 with Alun, Jayne

svdie - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Anna

disrail - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Dave

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/14

lovely big holds.
Helen Gibson - Lead - 30/May/14 with Jacquie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

Hidden - 25/May/14

edmitchell - AltLd - 17/May/14 with pyb course

Excellent route bone dry after day of rain before. One tricky move for short arses like me near start of second pitch. Had to do a monkey swing round out of the groove onto front wall.
Ann S - 2nd - 02/May/14 with Skinnykin

Quite possibly the best vs in wales
Marti999 - AltLd - 19/Apr/14 with Debbie

Started Oxo, (easy), then went up past peg on Bovine (hard!). Final pitch of Bovine. Easy, but steep.
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Mark Ellis

led P1
Matt Harmon - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Anna Duckett

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/14

lead 2nd pitch, cool crux
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/14 with neils EW

Nick Biven - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/13

Fred_Richard - 22/Sep/13 with Pete

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/13

noah - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Slimmy

2nd pitch, fantastic position.
danp - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/13

Led pitch 1, brilliant route.
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Kyle Williamson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/13

What a stunning 2nd pitch. Tricky moves off the belay, but then easy climbing on massive jugs all the way.
asmith37 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Bex Leigh

Led first pitch, Jocky let the crux pitch
John Roe - AltLd - 09/Jun/13 with Iain (Jocky) Marr

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/13

Ray Sparks - AltLd O/S - 24/May/13 with pete ranstead

ross brinson - AltLd O/S - 20/May/13 with Ben Biscoe

P2, brilliant and unlikely - what a pitch
lithos - AltLd - 18/May/13 with andy kitchen

Excellent climbing, tricky move onto the face then a sprint to the top on superb holds
daveyb - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with dave_forti

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/13

One rest on gear which I am very annoyed with myself about! Apart from that a totally awesome route and superb exposure on amazing holds. One climb every climber should do.
dave_forti - Lead - 06/May/13

Awesome!
Wyn Bach - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Ched

Johnywilks - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

tim20 - 2013

tim20 - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Top pitch merits it's 3 stars. Scary even to 2nd and hard work despite large hand holds. Difficult move right onto last section, very exposed.
davidhopwood - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/12 with Jade

Mint 2nd pitch...
Lloyders - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Paddy

Will242 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with pastep

Led pitch 2. Completely awesome!
pastep - AltLd - 07/Sep/12 with Will242

jon59 - Lead - 16/Aug/12

Amazing top pitch, wild for VS!!
james.slater - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with Joss Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/12

led p2. not sure about the strength of the spike but amaxing climbing
stvredmond - AltLd - 24/Jun/12 with Sean mercer

myoung - AltLd O/S - Apr/12 with Helen

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Mar/12

Frank Blakeley - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Si

Led p1.
Gareth Bowen - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Dave Whitely

ldadams - AltLd O/S - Mar/12 with Nigel

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/12

richardr - 2012

alan moore - 2012

captain dringo - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Superb climb in gloriously sunny autumn conditions - climbed P1 in t-shirt ! P1, quite poor gear. Also went up to the 'ramp' too early and scared myself half to death with a very teetery traverse. Julie came up the correct way and found it much easier. P2 - exciting swing right out of the groove (crux) then superb steep climbing up the wall via big flakes.
jandyd05 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Julie Anglesea

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

Brilliant!! Great weather for November, great scenery and great route
Blurgy319 - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11 with Ginge Moore, Lee Wales

Lead 1st pitch, really poor gear for a 4b managed to conceal myself to a narrow ledge/gangway which I had to gingerly crawl along with only 2 not so good placed cams protecting me from bottoming out!!! 2nd Pitch Rob lead (I'm glad) quality climbing, pumpy but good jugs! first bits got a bold swing out right with little for left foot. (leaders make sure you protect this move for your 2nd's)!!!
Matthew Scott-Chalmers - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Robert Evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/11

Led pitch 1, second pitch is awesome, steep but great holds
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/11 with Andy Mcque

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11

Loved it - only problem being an arachnaphobic daughter who launched herself off the crag rather than face up to her fears!
AJH - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Rebecca

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Chris

dan ely - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with steve

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jul/11

Great route. With Steph (trainee). Steph couldn't do crux on start of pitch 2 so had to ab down to her and lower her then ab off (left no gear). Excellent training!
martin c - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Awesome. Led P2. Jugsy.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Laura Perry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Les

justin burgoyne - AltLd O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11

Supper holds!
DOVEY - Lead - 11/May/11 with Loz / Maker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

Cracking route!
richw2k2 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Monika

backroped
frost - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/11

jshields - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Ed James

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with Helen Pitt

Led P2. Potentially one of the best VS pitches I have done. Absolute Jug-ladder up a steep wall, with a fun swing around out of the groove.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Chris??, Jess

harder top pitch, very exposed and steep chimney
peua57 - Lead - 06/Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Rob Evans - Lead - 2011

Stayed reasonably dry in spite of heavy showers. What a superb top pitch.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 23/Oct/10 with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill

hidden gem
david morse - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with siobhan, chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/10

Another great climb. Crux was the balancy alternative direct finish
Conan - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Phil

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 11/Aug/10 with Lee Wales, Rusty

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/10 with mark

Big lovely jugs (p2)
JasonV - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Gareth

Moomin.williams - AltLd - 20/Jun/10

prwalker - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Mike Doyle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/10

Lead 2nd picth. What a jug fest!!
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/10 with Will K

Shaw Brown - Lead - 06/Jun/10 with anne salisbury

Harri777 - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Liz

Lead 1st (easier) pitch. Hot and sunny!
Binder - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with JT

New favourite route!
Dizz - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Harri777

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/10

steve prior - AltLd - Jun/10 with Andy C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10

Tony Little - Solo O/S - 15/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/10

Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 11/May/10

wow! what a great climb - how come i've not done this before
bob johnson - 2nd - 03/May/10 with Rich Ball

mikelaing - AltLd - May/10 with Ian Whitehead

will randall - Lead O/S - May/10 with sarah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10

dashitboarder - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with Dad and Jess

Led P1
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10

Liam FLeming - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Dan Jackson

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/09

Will Williams - 2nd O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/09

Ian first pitch, me second. Lovely climbing on second pitch.
Glyn Davidson - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Ian andrews

Lead 2nd pitch, felt awesome! Body belaying...
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 19/May/09 with Ben Alsford

Led second pitch. Great juggy, reasonably steep pitch. Fascinating rock. First couple of moves away from the belay provide a bit of interest. Great position above campsite / lake.
climbingrev - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Alison ?

Hidden - 18/Apr/09

Renegade_Pony - 2nd - 15/Apr/09 with barni

barni - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/09

peter myers - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Ralph Heath

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/08

John Dale - Lead - 01/Jun/08 with Erik Schaberg

Tim M - AltLd - 31/May/08 with Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 31/May/08 with cheesesarnie

stevepotter - AltLd - 24/May/08 with loic

Hedd led the first pitch, i led the second. One of the best vs's i've climbed, quite stiff for the grade.
gareth scott borthwick - AltLd O/S - 20/May/08 with Heddwyn Fletcher

Marcus - 2008

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Trystan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/07

AngelaC - AltLd - 30/Apr/06 with Dieter Cole

Ian McNeill - 2006

I took the better second pitch and virtually soloed it, opps!
richw2k2 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/05 with Johnny Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/05

Wayne S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/04

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/04

John Kettle - Lead - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Aug/02 with Fiend

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/02

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 01/May/01 with John Marston

five - Lead O/S - Aug/00 with TW

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/00

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 01/Jan/00

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Mel

kitkat78 - Lead - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/98

cornishben - AltLd O/S - 1998 with Andy Connor

zero six - Lead O/S - 1998

michael burrows - AltLd - 09/Feb/97 with richard parry

Julian Wedd - Lead - 1996

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Nov/93

and Debs.
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/93 with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jul/90

alan moore - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

PaulHermes - 1989

Tony Buckley - Lead - Apr/88

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1984

RichardMc - AltLd - 22/Oct/83 with John Evans

Chris Craggs - 1980

mikej - Lead - 28/Jun/78 with Tony Waite

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1977 with Stewart whatsisname from the Chester Club.

Hidden - Lead - Aug/75

David Smith - Lead - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
erbridger, Moonwolf, ianstevens, johnkeith, ianbowles, sting, Ash_Johnson, CM1992, Stephen Shaw, abercolin, willson, Tom Hecht, dansmonkeytroubles, hedgehog77, Rhys_Alun, Paul McCallum, leonjones, davesb, stemill, hepitt, sgl0jd

Voting
Total votes cast 132
hard HVS0 of 46
HVS0 of 46
easy HVS0 of 46
hard VS21 of 46
VS24 of 46
easy VS1 of 46
hard HS0 of 46
HS0 of 46
easy HS0 of 46
hard 5a0 of 44
5a0 of 44
easy 5a12 of 44
hard 4c9 of 44
4c20 of 44
easy 4c2 of 44
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3 Stars35 of 42
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