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Andromeda** IV 4

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[Andromeda, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: Andromeda © WilliamBurnside
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Wild conditions. White out with high winds. Difficulty even finding the crag. Main pitch was banked out and icy. Tech 4 but no gear for 40m after the initial peg on the right. Easily V 4. Cornices started collapsing everywhere towards the top of the route. Including a large one that I was belaying directly beneath, which struck my partner on the lower belay. Fell through a cornice 60m whilst skirting West trying to descend from the plateau. Fortunately I was a long way beyond Number 4 Buttress. Epic!
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/14 with Anna Kennedy

annak - 2nd O/S - 18/Jan/14 with Lee Harrison

Central groove option. Quite tricky under early season powder.
John Workman - Lead - 09/Nov/13 with Chris D

Thanks to those who burrowed a way out
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Ben Tibbetts

The Grist - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Sam Simpson

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with Nick Allsop, Mark Grist

Anna_wells - 04/Nov/12 with TIM

Tim_Gomersall - AltLd - 04/Nov/12 with ANNA

michael83 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12

Terrifying. First winter climb.
cjb1992 - 2nd dog - 04/Jan/12 with Sam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/12

Vertical ice through the cornice!
JdotP - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Ondrej Mandula

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Christian Minett, John Sealey

Did The IV,6 variation. Bomber Neve
benjaminireland - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with William Hawkins

Took the IV,6 variation. Total lack of any obvious gear, very run-out and sketchy!
willhawkins - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11

jon22 - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with The Bad Cough

excellent!
Piers Harley - AltLd - 22/Jan/11 with Jeremy Windsor

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11 with Drew

2ba - AltLd - 02/Jan/11 with Stewart, Brian Shackleton, Don Bisset, Gav Swinton

Drew M - AltLd - Jan/11 with Ed Feldman

peebles boy - 2nd - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

MarkDavies36 - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Chris Harling

Hidden - Lead - 20/Dec/09

wence - 2nd - 13/Dec/09 with Duncan

One well protceted awkward move.
decs - Lead - 13/Dec/09 with Lawrence

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09

led 1 and 2, K 3 and 4
abbeywall - AltLd - 12/Dec/09 with K

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/09

joe larner - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/09 with Adam Russell

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/09 with Amanda, Alan

Good route, turf frozen where needed, bit of build up would make crux easier.
WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 28/Nov/09 with B Strachan

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Nov/09

Captain Solo - AltLd - 29/Mar/09 with Hebe

adamscottthomas - AltLd - 07/Mar/09 with Pat Ingram

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Steev & Richard

2nd day of guides assessment - Graeme Ettle assessing.
Jim Haydock - 2nd - 05/Mar/09 with Mark Walker & Graeme Ettle

Very good and technical 2nd pitch when it was lean. Richard said it was as hard as IV, 6 he did.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Rich Pow

simon_D - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/09 with Dan

Jamie Simpson - 2009

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Carlos

Ian Parnell - AltLd - 27/Oct/08 with Jon Winter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/08

Neil Mackenzie - AltLd - 01/Mar/08 with Andy

Took the central grove and had to dig out a few feet of powder on the way up. Felt very hard and more like V,5, great moves especially in the upper chimney.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Neil Mackenzie

Hidden - Lead - Mar/08

rob1 - AltLd - 20/Jan/08 with Tom Martin

Chris(cface!) - 2008

Took the central grove, which was a bit spicy for IV 4!
Fultonius - AltLd - 02/Dec/07 with Ross Barnes

Ross Barnes - AltLd - 02/Dec/07 with Ally

gregor - Nov/07

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 14/Mar/07 with Clive

Led 1st, soft conditions, took ages. Steve got the top pitch & cornice, unstable snow, very insecure. Hardest winter climb I've ever done!
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with SteveM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

rob k - AltLd O/S - Feb/06 with R Marson

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/06 with scotty burnett

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/04

niall_mac - AltLd - Nov/04 with Mark R

Horrendous conditions; deluged in spindrift throughout.
Jamie B - AltLd - Mar/04 with Simon Franks

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/02

bandersnatch - AltLd - Feb/01 with Brian Hume

Richard White - 2000

ArnaudG - Jan/99 with Jon

Yourlead - 2nd - 22/Mar/92 with Graham Penny

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1992 with Ian Milne

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Dec/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Siobhann, Hidden, goingupintheworld, joeydurkin, Hidden, Hidden, Watty, PanzerHanzler

Voting
Total votes cast 50
hard V0 of 17
V0 of 17
easy V1 of 17
hard IV12 of 17
IV4 of 17
easy IV0 of 17
hard III0 of 17
III0 of 17
easy III0 of 17
hard 50 of 17
50 of 17
easy 511 of 17
hard 43 of 17
43 of 17
easy 40 of 17
hard 30 of 17
30 of 17
easy 30 of 17
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 71 (14.1%)
Followed10 of 71 (14.1%)
Alt Leads41 of 71 (57.7%)
Unknown10 of 71 (14.1%)

'Climbed'40 of 71 (56.3%)
clean O/S30 of 71 (42.3%)
dogged1 of 71 (1.4%)