Click to read about Advertising on UKC
|Benidorm > Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley) >
|Through the Looking Glass|| 6a |
<< Vía de Polop
Capricorn Encounter >>
|170m, 5 pitches. A good introduction to the style of climbing. The start is loose. Start at the top of the slope below a leftwards slanting fault.
1) 5+, 25m. Up the fault and follow this to a hard move round the arete to a crack. Up to a small roof and over this to a belay.
2) 5, 25m. Traverse along the break to the next bay and follow the line below the overlap (peg), pull over a wall to a groove which is followed. Move right to a good ledge and bolt belay.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb the steep wall on the right (2 threads) to follow the fault line right to a steep corner. Move up, then left, and climb direct to a small ledge (thread/nut belays).
4) 5, 45m. Climb the steepening slab and a short crack. Up this to a ledge and tree. Head up left to below the top wall.
5) 4+, 45m. Climb up and right to the slanting overhang. Follow this then move out right to the slab . Cross to cracks on the right and up these to a ledge. Climb short walls to the top.
FA. R.Edwards, C.Moreton, B.Rynne 2001
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Almost had an epic on this finishing on the top at dusk. Managed to locate the abseil point just round the back of the summit to reach the easier slopes in one abseil and walk off in the dark. In hindsight not the best route to choose to do a multi-pitch trad route in the area, P1 is very loose and dangerous, P2 is good but quite hard, but P3 feels a lot harder than any UK E1 i've done. Easier climbing after that on good rock. A cold wind probably made it feel harder than it should have been.
Chris wilson - 2nd - 13/Feb/11 with Pete D
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11 with sarp
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 2009 with chris king
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008
richardr - Feb/07
a_radiohead_fan - 2004
Led p 2 & 4
cem - AltLd rpt - 02/Jan/03 with Dave Amos
First ascent. Not worth two stars.
cem - 2nd - 01/Jan/01 with Bryan Rynne, Rowland Edwards