E4. A long route with interesting climbing and exciting positions. Start up the slope below a groove with a ruined wall at its base.
1) 7a, 20m. The Assassin. This pitch can be done on its own. Climb into the overhanging crack and up to the roof. Climb out over the roof and onto the left wall, follow a thin crack and pockets to a niche and bolt belay.
2) 6a, 15m. The Redemption. Follow the groove (loose) and climb left to the middle of the wall to bolts in a small cave.
3) 6b, 28m. Traverse left to a ledge below an overhanging wall to a large hole (thread). Climb this to a ledge then the overhanging wall above, trending right, to reach a ledge with trees.
4) 5+, 50m. Climb left and then up to a couple of steep walls. Up these to a good ledge, then traverse left to ledge and belay.
5) 5+, 45m. Climb the shallow groove and, at its top, traverse left onto a ledge. Continue to the top of the crag or:
5a) 6b, 45m. Climb the wall direct passing a bolt to reach a good ledge. Climb direct to the top of the crag. © Rockfax
FA. P1 M.Edwards. 1999. The rest - R.Edwards, M.Esslinger 1999
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