|183m, 6 pitches. A direct route, from which retreat would be difficult after P3. The route has several SENPs which will be replaced with bolts some time in the future. Start in the middle of the face, just left of a ruined wall and below an overhanging crack.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb into the crack from the right and follow this to a hanging belay. An excellent pitch in its own right!
2) 7a, 25m. Climb right onto the overhanging wall and up this trending rightwards to a hidden pocket on the right. Climb direct to a hole then move left to reach a steep, wide groove. Climb this to reach a belay on the right.
3) 6a, 25m. Climb the groove on the left and continue left to a slab. Climb this to a traverse line going left. Follow this to some small caves and climb through these to another larger cave.
4) 7c, 38m. Climb over the roof on the left and then straight up to a ‘bolted' flake. Climb straight up to the roof above (threads) over this and onto the ramp which is followed for a short way. Climb the wall direct to a small ledge and belay.
5) 6a, 35m. Climb left and then straight up the steep slab to a good ledge and belays.
6) 6a, 40m. Climb rightwards into a depression then left into a short groove. Go right to another groove and follow this finishing up a slab at the top. Block belays.
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 1999