E5. A route tackling the full length of the wall. Start below a rightwards-slanting roof 20m up. Fully bolted for the first two pitches, E5 after that with some bolts.
1) 6a+, 20m. Climb up friable rock to gain a rounded pillar. Pull up this to a ramp going left. Follow this to the bay.
2) 6c+, 25m. Climb the steep groove, swing left onto the leaning wall and climb on chipped pockets to ledge then up to a belay.
3) 6a+, 48m. Move right up a groove past a tree. Continue up the shallow groove, traverse left along a ramp to a groove. Climb this, then move left to a cave stance.
4) 7a+, 30m. Climb right along the ledge, then swing round into a corner. Go up (thread) to the leftward-sloping ramp. Follow this steeply to a roof. Move right and pull over the roof, difficult, and move left to bolt belays.
5) 6a, 25m. Climb directly up the wall, then traverse left to a long crack. Climb this, then traverse left into a cave and bolt belay.
6) 6a, 28m. Climb right out of the cave to a thread. Go up then left to a small ledge. Climb the steep wall above and then the groove to a ledge on the left by a bush.
7) 5, 35m. Move along the ledge to the left and climb the slabs, walls and ledges to the top of the crag. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 1998