E4. A big route. Start as for Diedro Edwards.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the crack and traverse left to a groove. Move left again across a steep section into another groove. Climb this to the roof, pull over and swing up and right to a ledge. Climb the thin crack to a ledge and a junction with Diedro Edwards.
2) 6c+, 45m. Climb the shallow depression above to a sling. Continue up, trending slightly right to a small cave. Move left and climb the overlap, before stepping right to climb the rough wall to a shallow bay. Climb over the bulge to a good ledge.
3) 6b, 30m. Move left into a cave, pull over the roof and into a groove on the right and onto a ledge. Climb the steep juggy rock, move right into a groove, then up this to a bolt belay.
4) 6b, 30m. Climb the short, steep wall left of the ledge and make a spectacular traverse left until you can climb direct (thread) to a recess. Move right then back left to follow cracks and grooves to the top of the route. Thread belay. © Rockfax