Invernesshire > Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm) >
 
The Hoarmaster*** VI 6

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[sunset from the first belay, 1 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: sunset from the first belay © mwatson
View all 16 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 68 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

masa-alpin - 2nd dog - 23/Jan/14 with Ross

Completely buried and impossible to protect.
Scott Rankin - AltLd dnf - 11/Jan/14 with Gordon Lacey

Not enough pitches to get to lead anything :( great route! Great conditions!
dj_brigham05 - 2nd O/S - 25/Nov/13 with Craig, Thom Simmons

P2, very loose big boulder/block near top of P2 watch out
stuart34 - AltLd rpt - 24/Nov/13 with Grame

Led P1 and slabby corner above the wobbly block.
machars - AltLd O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Stu

Callum_Johnson - AltLd - 23/Nov/13 with Uisdean

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Callum_Johnson

Climbed the chimney and fell off trying to mantel near the top of the pitch. gutted
stuart34 - Lead dnf - 10/Nov/13 with Grame

Stuart the postie - Lead - 01/Mar/13 with Ian Dempster

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Feb/13

P1. Amazing day, awesome climbing. Shed loads of hoar, pretty knackering but incredibly satisfying.
JRae - AltLd - 17/Feb/13 with Ben Silvestre, M Watson

Led P1, epic, patch led pitch two which had loads of rime on and was slow going!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 16/Jan/13 with Rob Patchett

Thin and rimed. Ade led steep sustained 1st pitch. I led slabby cornery 2nd. Outstanding climb
andybrown114 - AltLd - 12/Jan/13 with Ade Mellor

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/13

Never lead harder than grade IV before so got pretty knackered leading the first pitch, good lock off training though cleaning those iced up cracks!
buzby78 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Libby

P2
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/12 with Dave Almond, Jez Hawksworth

Dave Almond - AltLd - 16/Dec/12 with Tom Livingstone

Led 2nd pitch. Tremendous route. The lefthand slab/crack finish was very tenuous due to lack of neve, just powder snow.....save some hexes for this bit as I didn't!
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Dave Sharp

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Nov/12

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/12

Seconded P1 cleanly, led P2 where I went slightly off route, pumped out and had to rest a bit. Also made life harder for myself near the top by going straight up the off-width crack instead of stepping left. Got up it by the skin of my teeth. First route of the season and the first VI. Good conditions.
Kirill - AltLd dog - 03/Nov/12 with Mike Moss

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/12

super hard work with an enormous amount of powder to clear from every inch of the route. done on borrowed tools, which had a nasty habit of getting the handles clogged up with ice! took one fall seconding the first pitch when a seemingly good hook popped and had to take one rest on gear leading the second pitch. probably a good climb under there somewhere!
James S - AltLd - 31/Jan/12 with edvin

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/12

lead first pitch, though it doesn't get easier on the second
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Mark Mosgrove

BMC Winter Meet - Urban Novak
mux - 23/Jan/12 with Urban Novak

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12

Coops led pitch one Dave P2. Both coops and I seconded P 2 together - I balance out left on wobbly block which dropped off onto Si Frosts head the next day, his partner having trundled it.
davesykes - 2nd - 22/Jan/12 with Dave Gerrard, coops

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jan/12

1 cheeky move near the top of pitch 1. Great fun in the chimney!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with Tom Jumar

led first pitch. brilliant route.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with Mark Schmude

adie84 - 2012

Yes! Been wanting to do this for a while. Found the groove ok but then had 1ft thick powder to clear to get out of it. Awesome climb.
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/11 with Pat Ingram

great wee route, lots of verglace made the gear a bit spicy, but really secure climbing
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/11 with phil emerson, emily roo

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Dec/11

James Thacker - Lead - 01/Dec/11

jamesturnbull - AltLd - Dec/11 with aiden

Amazing, First VI, Glad for the in situ gear, great climb!! :D
nvalentine760 - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jan/11

alkira - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with James Monypenny

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Nov/10

PaulCunningham - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/09

Led P1, an excellent route
david morse - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/09 with Steve

stevebarratt - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/09 with Dave Morse

Peter Rhodes - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09 with Alan Dow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/08

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 24/Nov/08 with Euan Whittaker

It was definitely winter conditions....until halfway up the second pitch when it got warm and all melted!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/08 with Neil Adams

Amazingly good conditions for the start of October. The thaw hit when Ally was half way up the top pitch, but we'd done the meat of the route by then.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/08 with Ally F

robertporter - 2nd - 21/Dec/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

sgl - AltLd - 18/Nov/06 with helena

centurion05 - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Very sustained and climbed with verglas and finished in the dark
Yourlead - 2nd - 05/Dec/01 with Graham Penny

Dave Kerr - Lead - Jan/00 with Iain Sharpe

graeme gatherer - 2000

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 18/Nov/95 with Nick Ashton

Hidden - Lead - Mar/92

Date inaccurate. I have no idea when it was.
Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/50 with Dave McKinney, Andy Brown

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dream-Ice, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, GaryK, Big Lee, drunkpossum, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, michael83, Hidden, geoff.comley, Gibson, Hidden, Mark020, joeydurkin, Hidden, Hidden, Rob84, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Karl Wooffindin, Hidden, andymoin, dunx55, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard VII0 of 19
VII0 of 19
easy VII0 of 19
hard VI0 of 19
VI6 of 19
easy VI7 of 19
hard V6 of 19
V0 of 19
easy V0 of 19
hard 70 of 21
70 of 21
easy 70 of 21
hard 64 of 21
617 of 21
easy 60 of 21
hard 50 of 21
50 of 21
easy 50 of 21
3 Stars13 of 21
2 Stars8 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 68 (16.2%)
Followed11 of 68 (16.2%)
Alt Leads37 of 68 (54.4%)
Unknown9 of 68 (13.2%)

'Climbed'32 of 68 (47.1%)
clean O/S30 of 68 (44.1%)
clean rpt2 of 68 (2.9%)
dogged2 of 68 (2.9%)
dnf2 of 68 (2.9%)