Coati** VS 4b
[Jules on Coati, 2 kb]61m, 3 pitches. Start from the horizontal bit of Jack's Rake which is just before the dangerous bad step. A few metres right of the start of Aardvark is an easy-looking crack/groove line.
1. 4b Follow the crack/groove (steeper and harder than it looks) to belay on a comfortable ledge on the left.
2. 4b A bold pitch. Climb the gentle slab above, moving right to stand below a right-facing corner groove guarded by a steep little bulge. Obtain as much pro as you can find. Overcome the bulge and move left into a similar groove on good holds but no gear. Repeat the manoeuvre to reach a slab which mercifully supplies good pro. Continue up the narrowing slab until it more or less ends and then shimmy rightwards round the arête into a large corner groove the lower part of which is part of Cook's Tour. Reach an awkward stance with awkward anchors from which awkward rope management may re-unite you with your second.
3. 4b Climb the right facing corner above the stance (not the slanting groove) and continue steeply over some suspicious looking ringing flakes from which the impressive looking left facing corner on your right can be reached and climbed to an abrupt finish.
A fairly long scramble and rightwards wander leads to the walkers' descent from which the Great Gully descent can be reached to return to the foot of Jack's Rake.

Photo: Jules on Coati © cathsullivan
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 32 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Graham ran P1, 2 and some of 3 together. I lead the final corner crack. Lovely rock.
gav - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Luke, Graham

lukeapayne - 2nd - 16/Jun/15 with Graham, Gavin

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 11/Jun/15 with Pete Kelly

pitch 1 and 2
Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/15 with iain

rob.grafton - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with Chris Wright

Good friction throughout and the gear is there for the diligent!
Ed - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14

K Mckay - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Ed

Excellent route, well done Max for finding it. Great route finding. Led middle pitch, where a very steady approach is needed - long gap between bits of gear. For those who want beta you get some OK gear before climbing into the first corner groove and your next piece is after you've got into the third groove. Fortunately the holds are good small sharp things on the top quality Pavey rock. Top pitch is also a stunner. For what it's worth I agree with the 4b but the boldness makes it VS+ (not the VS- given in the guide).
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 24/Aug/14 with Pete Nugent

Led p1 & 3. Pitch 2 is bold with poor gear. Don't fall off!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Roger Wilkinson

Jontro - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Adam Newsom

steve prior - AltLd - Jul/14 with Andy C

twoplates - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Adam Milward

john max - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with Jen Maxfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Led top pitch.
erica - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Dave Hunter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Done in 2 pitches, I led 1st pitch.
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jeanie

redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 31/May/14 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

I led p2. P3 was the best. Quite an interesting route but with slightly dirty rock in places.
jbb - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Bertbee - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Ben

Petarghh - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with bob ashcroft

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

pete40 - AltLd - 21/Jul/13 with martin

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

Spent a bit of time cleaning this route. 1st full ascent of all 3 pitches
Conan - 2012 with Max Biden

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard VS4 of 14
VS9 of 14
easy VS1 of 14
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard 4c0 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
hard 4b2 of 11
4b8 of 11
easy 4b1 of 11
hard 4a0 of 11
4a0 of 11
easy 4a0 of 11
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars10 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S