Coati** VS 4b
[Jules on Coati, 2 kb]61m, 3 pitches. Start from the horizontal bit of Jack's Rake which is just before the dangerous bad step. A few metres right of the start of Aardvark is an easy-looking crack/groove line.
1. 4b Follow the crack/groove (steeper and harder than it looks) to belay on a comfortable ledge on the left.
2. 4b A bold pitch. Climb the gentle slab above, moving right to stand below a right-facing corner groove guarded by a steep little bulge. Obtain as much pro as you can find. Overcome the bulge and move left into a similar groove on good holds but no gear. Repeat the manoeuvre to reach a slab which mercifully supplies good pro. Continue up the narrowing slab until it more or less ends and then shimmy rightwards round the arête into a large corner groove the lower part of which is part of Cook's Tour. Reach an awkward stance with awkward anchors from which awkward rope management may re-unite you with your second.
3. 4b Climb the right facing corner above the stance (not the slanting groove) and continue steeply over some suspicious looking ringing flakes from which the impressive looking left facing corner on your right can be reached and climbed to an abrupt finish.
A fairly long scramble and rightwards wander leads to the walkers' descent from which the Great Gully descent can be reached to return to the foot of Jack's Rake.

Photo: Jules on Coati © cathsullivan
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This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

pitch 1 and 2
Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/15 with iain

rob.grafton - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with Chris Wright

Good friction throughout and the gear is there for the diligent!
Ed - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14

K Mckay - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Ed

Excellent route, well done Max for finding it. Great route finding. Led middle pitch, where a very steady approach is needed - long gap between bits of gear. For those who want beta you get some OK gear before climbing into the first corner groove and your next piece is after you've got into the third groove. Fortunately the holds are good small sharp things on the top quality Pavey rock. Top pitch is also a stunner. For what it's worth I agree with the 4b but the boldness makes it VS+ (not the VS- given in the guide).
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 24/Aug/14 with Pete Nugent

Led p1 & 3. Pitch 2 is bold with poor gear. Don't fall off!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Roger Wilkinson

Jontro - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Adam Newsom

steve prior - AltLd - Jul/14 with Andy C

twoplates - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Adam Milward

john max - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with Jen Maxfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Led top pitch.
erica - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Dave Hunter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Done in 2 pitches, I led 1st pitch.
Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jeanie

redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 31/May/14 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

I led p2. P3 was the best. Quite an interesting route but with slightly dirty rock in places.
jbb - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Bertbee - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Ben

Petarghh - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with bob ashcroft

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

pete40 - AltLd - 21/Jul/13 with martin

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

Total votes cast 33
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard VS3 of 12
VS8 of 12
easy VS1 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 4c0 of 9
4c0 of 9
easy 4c0 of 9
hard 4b0 of 9
4b8 of 9
easy 4b1 of 9
hard 4a0 of 9
4a0 of 9
easy 4a0 of 9
3 Stars2 of 12
2 Stars8 of 12
1 Star2 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S