Rockfax Description
II, 185m. A good alternative to the Rébuffat-Baquet. Unfortunately the route faces east and loses the sun early, especially the upper corner so start early, climb fast and save it for a scorching August day with no wind.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb grey rock up and into the groove and follow this leftwards easily to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, 10m left of the grey rock.
3) 5b, 30m. More of the same superb rock and climbing!
4) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, taking the left-hand crack when it steepens. Belay beneath an overhang.
5) 6a/A0 or 6c, 25m. Things get tough! Climb up to below an overhang and traverse left then climb the groove above. This can be done free but most climbers pull on some handily placed bolts, bringing the grade to an amenable 6a.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the short wide crack. Easy ground leads to two belays - use the one on the right.
6) 6a+, 30m. Climb the corner with some difficulty to a stance which gets chilly pretty quickly!
7) 6a, 25m. Carry on up the groove to reach the top of the pillar. Either abseil the Contamine or follow it to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the corners to the right of the 'Contamine' on the south face
A fine alternative if, the Rebuffat is too crowded (it always is)
It's of the same quality and grade

Pierre Kohlmann 1960.

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