160m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 185m. A route that ought to see more attention. The climbing is as good as that found on the Rébuffat-Baquet and the difficulties are similar. The downside is that the route faces almost due east and so loses the sun earlier than the south-facing routes, especially the upper corner. Parts of it go into the shade early in the day, so start early, climb fast and save it for a scorching August day with no wind.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb grey rock up and into the groove and follow this leftwards easily to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, 10m left of where the rock turns grey.
3) 5b, 30m. More of the same, which is no chore when the climbing is this good!
4) 6a/A0 or 6c, 25m. Things get a bit tougher here - climb straight up to underneath an overhang and traverse left under it before climbing the groove above. This can be done free but this is not in keeping with the rest of the route and most climbers will pull on some handily placed bolts to ease their passage, bringing the grade to an amenable 6a.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the short wide crack. Easy ground leads to two belays - use the one on the right.
6) 6a+ 30m. Climb the corner with some difficulty to a stance which gets chilly pretty quickly!
7) 5c, 25m. Carry on up the groove to reach the top of the pillar. Either abseil the Contamine or follow it to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the corners to the right of the 'Contamine' on the south face
A fine alternative if, the Rebuffat is too crowded (it always is)
It's of the same quality and grade

Pierre Kohlmann 1960


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 07/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun AltLd
Sam Simpson 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Pike
Hidden 01/Aug/12 AltLd
astrange 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Same quality as the Rebuffat

Hidden 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
alpinestar_no1 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

awsome climb! just as good as the rebuffat, but less crowded! :)

with Stefan Jacobsen, astrange
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, pc1983
Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set