160m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 185m. A route that ought to see more attention. The climbing is as good as that found on the Rébuffat-Baquet and the difficulties are similar. The downside is that the route faces almost due east and so loses the sun earlier than the south-facing routes, especially the upper corner. Parts of it go into the shade early in the day, so start early, climb fast and save it for a scorching August day with no wind.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb grey rock up and into the groove and follow this leftwards easily to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, 10m left of where the rock turns grey.
3) 5b, 30m. More of the same, which is no chore when the climbing is this good!
4) 6a/A0 or 6c, 25m. Things get a bit tougher here - climb straight up to underneath an overhang and traverse left under it before climbing the groove above. This can be done free but this is not in keeping with the rest of the route and most climbers will pull on some handily placed bolts to ease their passage, bringing the grade to an amenable 6a.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the short wide crack. Easy ground leads to two belays - use the one on the right.
6) 6a+ 30m. Climb the corner with some difficulty to a stance which gets chilly pretty quickly!
7) 5c, 25m. Carry on up the groove to reach the top of the pillar. Either abseil the Contamine or follow it to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the corners to the right of the 'Contamine' on the south face
A fine alternative if, the Rebuffat is too crowded (it always is)
It's of the same quality and grade

Pierre Kohlmann 1960

davkeo 21/Aug AltLd O/S

In 6 pitches. An all round excellent climb on great rock. Did p1 in big boots which misha led. I linked p2&3 for one 50m pitch which gave really sweet VS climbing. Misha did the next & linked it with the 6c pitch and I had the awesome corner above. Pretty icy and cold in the corner & the slab was a bit verglassed but the crack was solid on finger jams. Misha took the off width fun for the next pitch & I linked the next one with the contamine finish. Wud have been even better on a scorching August day without the wind as recommend in the description!

with Misha
Misha 21/Aug AltLd O/S

First route of the trip. Intended as an acclimatisation day and it worked out fine for a change! Blue sky above an inversion, better than forecast. Fairly warm except in the corner at the top but we knew it would be out of the sun - what we weren't expecting was just how freezing cold the rock would be. The verglas on some of the footholds after the previous day's snow was a nice touch! Did it in 6 pitches (fine on 50m ropes with lots of extenders), 5 hours to the top, small pack with big boots and lightweight crampons in them, wasn't an issue - the altitude was though, had to stop for air now and then but that was to be expected. I led P1 in big boots (quite tricky), then we changed into rock shoes. Dave linked P2&3, nice VSish ground. I linked P4&5, mostly fairly straightforward but the crux was way harder than anything else on the route. A couple of moves revolving around small crimps which wrong hand you while you're in a balancey position. Reckon it was getting onto trad 6a but very well protected by a peg and a bolt. E1 6a. Not very clear where the line goes to get from the belay ledge to the corner but doesn't really matter. Dave took a thin crack just eight of the (right hand) belay, moving left and then back right into the freezing corner. The corner was so cold I only got up it because it involved hand jams and good finger locks so didn't need to use the fingers much. Got hot aches on the belay! Would probably be E1 5b in good conditions. The easier continuation corner line actually had snow in the crack so I opted for a mostly dry offwidth crack to the right, which succumbed to some arm barring, thrutching, gentle laybacking and use of occasional face holds. Glad of the two bolts as didn't have large enough gear. E1 5b again. Sunshine at the top of that pitch :-) Dave finished in one from there to the summit block.

Hidden 07/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun AltLd
Sam Simpson 11/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Pike
Hidden 01/Aug/12 AltLd
astrange 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Same quality as the Rebuffat

Stefan Jacobsen 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
alpinestar_no1 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

awsome climb! just as good as the rebuffat, but less crowded! :)

with Stefan Jacobsen, astrange
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